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  #46  
Old 01-20-2007, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTUpower View Post
I used to be a look at the back of the car to see what it's called guy- but Mercedes does actually put a "-T" on turbo cars paperwork sometimes. The original stickers of W123 (which is what you have- it's the chassis name- if you have a coupe, wagon or sedan; they are all called w123) turbo cars said for example 300D-T. If you know the cars you refer[B] to the car as the emblem reads: a 300D is a 300D; turbo or non turbo. It seems if you want to "boast" or are a beginner you add the "T". It's the first evidence of the ugly head of "bling" if you ask me.
William, don't give in to the "-T" crowd!!
The highlighted sentence above is one of the keenest observations in quite a while, and well put.....

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #47  
Old 01-20-2007, 11:58 PM
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Is it normal for these cars to chirp 2nd gear? I'm buying a service manual tomorrow, at least to get some of the minor stuff done right away.

Last edited by Brian Carlton; 01-21-2007 at 12:13 AM.
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  #48  
Old 01-21-2007, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by kendogg View Post
Is it normal for these cars to chirp 2nd gear? I'm buying a service manual tomorrow, at least to get some of the minor stuff done right away.

They typically won't chirp unless the shifts are made with no vacuum. Does the 1-2 bang into second? What about the 2-3 and 3-4? Any banging or clunking during these shifts?

How about banging on downshifts?
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  #49  
Old 01-21-2007, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
They typically won't chirp unless the shifts are made with no vacuum. Does the 1-2 bang into second? What about the 2-3 and 3-4? Any banging or clunking during these shifts?

How about banging on downshifts?
1-2 and 2-3 upshifts are normally firm, sometimes a little hard, but firm, and I would even venture to say they are possibly late shifts as well, but I don't know these cars well enough yet to know what is normal. It seems right after the 2-3 upshift, something under the car clunks HARD, I can't tell yet if it is a suspension component clunking, or if it is the 3-4 upshift, but it really feel like it is happening during/because of a shift.

The downshifts are odd, it acts like it really doesn't want to downshift at all. It will, at the last possible second, but it acts like it doesn't like it, and yeah, I guess you could say the downshifts are harsh. Am I looking at vacuum modulator issues?
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  #50  
Old 01-21-2007, 02:05 AM
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One more thing I noticed on the drive home. The heater went to cold once I got up to speed. I notice it has a heater control valve, do these go bad like older BMW 5 series, whereas at a stop you have heat, but cruising at speed you don't?

Also-, my temp gauge never even makes it to the first line. There is what looks to be a temp sensor on the front of the engine, passengers side, but all it is mounted to is a metal bracket, and this is not hooked up? There is a wire there for it, but the other end of that wire is not hooked up either, and I cannot for the life of me see what it could be hooked to. Any idea's? Hopefully I'll be able to identify that part tomorrow with the service manual I pick up.
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  #51  
Old 01-21-2007, 02:41 AM
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the temp sensor up front is for the aux fan. the dash gauge pickup is on the side of the head, above the gloplugs.

if the engine isn't warmed up , you wont get good heat. Maybe thermostat? they fail open.

when i got my car, the po had reversed the lines and the tranny vac line was connected to the black vent line, so wasn't getting vac. shifted real hard.
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  #52  
Old 01-21-2007, 05:58 AM
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Jimmy is sarcasm your first or second language

Ken motor mounts are good place to look at shaking and NO mercedes shifts like american auto tranny so drive it a li while b4 you decide there is a problem
I'm always jealous of owners in Atlanta with Old World Auto in Lawrenceville and DieselGiant in Loganville maybe I'll move
Suppose I could bring my boats to Tybee Is
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1986 300 SDL 427654
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1987 190 Turbo 158000 Mom's (my inheritance)
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  #53  
Old 01-21-2007, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendogg View Post
1-2 and 2-3 upshifts are normally firm, sometimes a little hard, but firm, and I would even venture to say they are possibly late shifts as well, but I don't know these cars well enough yet to know what is normal. It seems right after the 2-3 upshift, something under the car clunks HARD, I can't tell yet if it is a suspension component clunking, or if it is the 3-4 upshift, but it really feel like it is happening during/because of a shift.

The downshifts are odd, it acts like it really doesn't want to downshift at all. It will, at the last possible second, but it acts like it doesn't like it, and yeah, I guess you could say the downshifts are harsh. Am I looking at vacuum modulator issues?
As I thought.

You've got vacuum issues to the transmission.

Does it still have the EGR system all hooked up and running?
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  #54  
Old 01-21-2007, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by kendogg View Post
One more thing I noticed on the drive home. The heater went to cold once I got up to speed. I notice it has a heater control valve, do these go bad like older BMW 5 series, whereas at a stop you have heat, but cruising at speed you don't?

Also-, my temp gauge never even makes it to the first line. There is what looks to be a temp sensor on the front of the engine, passengers side, but all it is mounted to is a metal bracket, and this is not hooked up? There is a wire there for it, but the other end of that wire is not hooked up either, and I cannot for the life of me see what it could be hooked to. Any idea's? Hopefully I'll be able to identify that part tomorrow with the service manual I pick up.
The former problem requires you to pull out the monovalve piston and diaphragm and replace it. They suffer a tear in the rubber and the symptoms are identical to what you've stated.

The temperature sensor for the gauge is mounted on the driver's side of the head, right about cylinder #3. Disconnect the wire and see what the gauge does. Then ground the wire and see what the gauge does.
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  #55  
Old 01-21-2007, 10:16 AM
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Thanks for confirming my suspicions on the heater valve. As I remember, a rebuild kit for those is around $40, so no big deal. I'll be buying a service manual today, and I'll start the vacuum diagnosis today, and go from there. AFAIK, yes, the EGR system is still there, the EGR valve at least is still there. As to whether it is hooked up properly and functioning? We'll see later today.

And I know where the temp sensor is now, I disconnected it while changing the glow plugs, but I did re-connect it. Hopefully the service manaul will have resistants specs @ temp. so I can test that with an ohmmeter
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  #56  
Old 01-21-2007, 12:20 PM
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Did I miss something...?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kendogg View Post
After about 3 minutes of diag, I've concluded that my glow plugs are all dead, all ohming out over 50k ohms, the wiring is good from the plug to the glow plugs, and the relay is putting out 12v to all 5 glow plug wires. What/where is the best place to buy glow plugs from?
The car is in decent shape. Has 123k on it, body is alright for the most part. Tune-up time for sure, I'm not too awful familiar with these cars. How many fuel filters are there? I see there is one filter, then also a fuel-water separator, that unfortunately, somebody has bypassed, that I need to repair asap. Is there a replaceable filter element inside the water separator, or is it just an open filter setup?
So far, my maintenance list consists of the following:
Glow plugs / fuel filters / oil/filter change / power steering fluid and filter change / air filter / rear diff fluid change / valve adjustment
Anything else I should be looking into doing? I plan on doing a complete fluid/filter change on everything, a valve adjustment, and repairing the glow plug system. I see it has the bullet fuse box setup like my BMW E28 5 series did, so I need to go thru and clean all of those contacts, but other than that, hopefully she should be good to go. Look forward t being here everybody, and thanks for any help in advance!!!
Do these engines ever come out of time?Should I be timing the injection pump while I'm doing my maintenance?
BTW - what is the best repair manual?
Enthusiast book from the 45 years of "the Star" technical Magazine ,covers 45 years of models. This is what was recommended to me, should I go with it?
You really got your questions in didn't ya! But even with all the information you included, I must ask:
Q1 - Is this car new to you?
Q2 - When was the last time the engine was running?
Regards,
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  #57  
Old 01-21-2007, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainmonk View Post
Jimmy is sarcasm your first or second language
Cap'n, it's my only language.....


Those resources would be nice to live near, wouldn't they.
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'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #58  
Old 01-21-2007, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuel M. Ross View Post
You really got your questions in didn't ya! But even with all the information you included, I must ask:
Q1 - Is this car new to you?
Q2 - When was the last time the engine was running?
Regards,
Q! - Yes, the car is new to me.

Q2 - I couldn't tell you when the last time the engine ran. It runs now though
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  #59  
Old 01-21-2007, 08:25 PM
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While you are still working on getting the engine to run more smoothly...

Quote:
Originally Posted by kendogg View Post
OK, that makes sence. I bought Rotella 15W-40, I'll probably buy a synthetic once I know everything is in tip-top shape. It's been running now for 3+ hours, and gets beter every time I go to drive it down the road.
I've been told that these transmissions seem to shift fairly hard the way they are, it seems 1-2 and maybe it's the 2-3 uphisft are fine, but not too long after it hits 3rd it shifts real hard, but feels like the trans is hitting something, but I've been told this is near normal? Are these a 3 speed or 4 speed auto? I can definitely tell it's like alot of other Merc trans's, it starts in 2nd unless your in L and floored. Maybe I'm feeling broken moor/trans mounts, and maybe the trans seems to torque over just right causing the bang when hitting 3rd or 4th than I'm noticing?
Is tehre any kind of TV or kickdown cables on these trans's that can be adjusted, maybe a previous owner played with things to make it shift harder?
... while you are still at this stage of getting the cobwebs out of your fuel system, particularly the Injection Pump (IP) and injectors, I would recommend a couple of 500 ml cans of "Diesel Purge"... and make sure you run this straight thru and recycled back thru. This means disconnecting the fuel supply and return lines and NOT just dumping the purge chemical into the tank. This should be done before you change out both fuel filters. I promise you will never regret performing this fuel pump/injector cleaning procedure. There are good POSTs on this FORUM with pictures for this.
Regards,
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  #60  
Old 05-25-2007, 07:47 PM
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It's been awhile, but I have some great news - as per a suggestion from Shawn D, I adjusted the cable going to the trans - and the shift timing is perfect now!!!

But, I do still have a bad clunk going into top gear, any thoughts? I don't feel it nearly as much now as I hear it.

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