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  #16  
Old 01-05-2007, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
I was able to get mine off, but it definetly takes two people to do it and not damage it. There are 4 tabs you have to depress to get it off. You will need 4 screw drivers or some other type of thin wedge to get all 4 tabs depressed at the same time. Then it will push out. It's a chore but it will come out.
Were are the four tabs?

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  #17  
Old 01-06-2007, 12:18 AM
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They are on the back side of the sliding mechanism, i.e. the back of the glovebox door. You have to take the black plastic with the so called cup holders on it, off the door, and then you should see it.
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  #18  
Old 01-06-2007, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
They are on the back side of the sliding mechanism, i.e. the back of the glovebox door. You have to take the black plastic with the so called cup holders on it, off the door, and then you should see it.

I have taken the black plastic cover off.

So you push in the 4 tabs that within the black thing in the center?
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  #19  
Old 01-08-2007, 04:49 PM
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Just to make sure, are these the tabs you are talking about (in the picture)?


Thanks
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Can you remove the glove box slider on 1981 240D?-im000664.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2007, 10:20 PM
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Are these the tabs that I need to push in (above picture).Just ant to make sure before I start.
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  #21  
Old 01-09-2007, 11:00 PM
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Yup thats the tabs on the sides, took me a bit when I did mine, did it myself with a couple of jeweler's screwdrivers and patience.

Jimmy, my glove box door was so loose the light never went out, I bent it, but I believe I opted to adjust the catch inside the box rather than the arm. Works great now.
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  #22  
Old 01-09-2007, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang_man298 View Post

Jimmy, my glove box door was so loose the light never went out, I bent it, but I believe I opted to adjust the catch inside the box rather than the arm. Works great now.
Hmmm, my catch does not have any adjustment room to move it inboard. I tried that first. I have thought about drilling the holes out in an oblong direction to get some adjustment room. Yours had enough wiggle room to adjust??
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  #23  
Old 01-10-2007, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang_man298 View Post
Yup thats the tabs on the sides, took me a bit when I did mine, did it myself with a couple of jeweler's screwdrivers and patience.

Jimmy, my glove box door was so loose the light never went out, I bent it, but I believe I opted to adjust the catch inside the box rather than the arm. Works great now.
I still can't get the tabs pushed in... Any ideas of how to do it? I have tried many times with differnet sizes of screwdrivers. I even have another person pushing on the other side and still can't get them to pushed in.
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  #24  
Old 01-10-2007, 05:24 PM
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What I had to do was wedge the screwdrivers down between the tab and the housing attached to the door. Once all four tabs were wedge towards the center of the sliding mechanism it gets put out towards the front of the door. It's not an easy task, takes some patients.
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  #25  
Old 01-11-2007, 01:13 AM
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Jimmy-
I think I filed the holes a tad bit longer to move it in, then I did some work on it with a pair of pliers, I think I ended up tilting the catch tang part backward into the glove box a little, I'd have to go look at it, If I think about it tomorrow I'll check it since I'll be crawling all over the car tomorrow trying to fix a gp relay and check the front end out. Maybe I'll even get a pic too.

Elmo-
I wedged a couple screwdrivers on the tabs on one side, gently pulled down on the slide enough to rock that side down far enough so the catches wouldnt fall back in, then the tricky part, held the slide down with one hand and wedged the other two on the other side, then used both hands to keep it tilted enough to wiggle its way out with downward pulling without the first side popping back in, took me a couple tries and lots of patience. I repaired almost all of my peeling wood now, only piece left is under the center vents, it just peeled up, and I've been too busy/lazy to tear the dash apart to get it off and fix it,lol. I figure the vent lever will hold it on till I get to it.
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  #26  
Old 01-11-2007, 10:08 PM
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Ok, I looked at my latch today and it all came back to me. The latch is just screwed to the top of the box, no slots, which was why I had the trouble of not simply adjusting it in, and no slots to be able to file to make it happen that way. I did bend the box side of the latch, not the door side, tilting the tang inward towards the back of the box, very gently and lightly until it got tight feeling again. I believe I used a small hammer to lightly tap the tang, tap, test, tap, test.....
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  #27  
Old 10-12-2009, 10:08 PM
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i just used this thread to get the latch off and am using a weight to try and straighten the wood peice right now. thanks a bunch
i describe it as very well directed white hot rage. then i slipped in a tire repair tool to hold it out of place and anyway thanks.
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  #28  
Old 10-13-2009, 10:04 AM
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There is a repair kit available from another web site, here are a few pics, they may help.
Attached Thumbnails
Can you remove the glove box slider on 1981 240D?-glove-box-001.jpg   Can you remove the glove box slider on 1981 240D?-glove-box.jpg   Can you remove the glove box slider on 1981 240D?-glove-box-002.jpg  
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  #29  
Old 10-13-2009, 02:32 PM
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I used a pair of C clamp vise-grip pliers and it took all of 5 seconds to get the lock off. The vise grips pushed two of the tabs in and are actually strong enough to push the lock out of the housing on one side. Once you've gotten that far you can actually remove the vise-grips, but still hold the lock with your extra hand so that it doesn't re-seat itself, then repeat the procedure on the other two tabs. Comes right out.

Make sure you alighn the word "OBEN" so that it's facing up towards the top of the door when reassembling.

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