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Car wanders on freeway, what to replace???
My car has gotten to the point where it drifts quite a bit on the freeway, especially if I am hit by a crosswind. I am assuming I should replace my tie rods (all of them) since they are likely 100k+ in age at least. On the parts site I noticed that there are "tie rod ends" and "tie rod assemblies" with a significant difference in cost. Which one should I buy? On diesel giant's pictorial I saw he used the entire new tie rod... all three for my car would be $180. I'll be having the dealer replace them because I don't want to work on steering components.
Any tips or advice on this potential project? I am getting sick of my car wandering all over the freeway, its getting hard to keep it in a straight line!
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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Alignment could be out. Check the thrust angle on the back wheels. Mine was well out, and effectively steering from the back.
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Also check for play in the pitman and idler arms. Especially the latter.
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#4
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Maybe the ball joints are shot? Maybe the guide rod bushings are weak? Maybe the steering dampener is shot? Maybe the steering box has too much play? Making an assumption, as you have done, without going through the suspension carefully by someone who knows suspensions, is just tossing money out the window..........IMHO, of course. |
#5
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and rear sway bar links
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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Has been replaced:
Rear Sway Links Idler Arms Steering Damper Alignment was done less than a year ago (last february) When you get the steering to a certain spot or if there is no wind outside, it will track straight just fine, its when its more windy, then it swerves around. The only place I have around here that could check the suspension out is the dealer....and they charge $95 an hour to look at it. I'd rather be paying that and getting things replaced than paying it for potentially nothing, then having to pay again for the actual repair.... I think my guide rods/bushings are pretty shot as well, but the ball joints look ok, no clunking, and when I grab a wheel and shake it doesn't move/have play. Potential culprits: Tie rods, steering box, guide rods, maaaaybe the alignment What would be my best bet for why the car wanders/swerves, especially in windy situations, it feels like the steering wheel is merely a "suggestion" for where the car is going..
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) Last edited by pawoSD; 12-28-2006 at 11:10 AM. |
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If there is no play in the wheels when you shake them, I would probably rule out tie-rods...
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1989 300E 144K |
#8
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Subframe bushings?
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#9
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How about cross winds? Remember the bigger the vehicle, the more surface for wind to push on. Winds 30 mph and up do cause us to feel the buffeting.
If nothing is loose suspension wise, it just the physics of driving in the wind. Ever seen an 18 wheeler blown over by the wind? I would not worry about it IMHO. Even our Jetta get knocked around by a strong cross wind.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#10
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easy way to check tierods is to have someone turn the wheel back and forth while the car is up on ramps, and look at each end for play as the wheel is turned. DO NOT TURN WHEEL LOCK TO LOCK WHILE ON RAMPS, the creep can push the car off them. just about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel back and fourth should be plenty to find the problem.
pay attention to the ball joints, the idler arms the steering box, and pretty much every component that is connected to the wheels. look them over one at a time John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#11
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My 300D's in the same state, and now worse after sliding off the asphalt the other day. If I can't figure out what is wrong, it's going to someone who can tell me. I'll then decide what I can do and what to have someone do.
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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
#12
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Many threads suggest it is the sub frame bushings(search: cross wind drifting). I have this same problem and have replaced a bad tie rod, and idler arm kit. I also have one ball joint that is bad, so I'm dealing with the problem until I can replace the ball joint and subframe mounts, which are a pain in the a$$. I am also going to replace the front and rear differential mounts. No point in doing an alignment until everythings' done.
A good way to tell if you have a bad ball joint is to back off a 4"+ curb with the wheel turned so that each wheel comes off seperately. If the ball joint is bad, it will most likely make a loose 'clunking' noise. Last edited by turbodeezl; 12-28-2006 at 01:44 PM. |
#13
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So the entire front end is pretty original? At 250k everything is probably a little worn and sloppy. I wouldn't bother having the dealer change the tire rods and drag link. That is so easy! Take the money you were going to spend on labor and do the upper control arms. Start replacing stuff a little at a time.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#14
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i would take it to an ordinary alignment shop with benz experience. ask for an alignment. if there are loose parts they will tell you what needs changing for free in my experience. then you can change parts yourself or have them do it. you may be able to supply the parts too in which case you can probably save about half on the parts.
i wouldnt ignore it. a benz is very stable in the wind. good luck. tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#15
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Man, that could be a number of things. Subframe bushings, ball joints, lower control arm bushings, track rod mounts, and the list goes on.... I've been tracking down a steering vibration and replaced all the rubber in the rear and almost everything up front, vibration is still there. The w126 has pretty complicated suspension.
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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go" 1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif |
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