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  #16  
Old 01-11-2007, 12:48 PM
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Bring it on

Ultimate Artic MB300SD. Pictures!

of course.. mine is in the shop getting all kinds of rubber parts replaced. I might have to go down to the garage just to "test" it in the cold.

So far.. I've been able to get the block, radiator, and heater core up to 80C in about 20 to 24 minutes!

JP
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  #17  
Old 01-11-2007, 12:55 PM
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I'd suggest heating the charge air also.Remove the air cleaner top. Put a blow dryer on high heat, high fan and stick it in the intake while crancking. May want to let it sit there for awhile, before cranking. Make sure it's secure (or use another body) cause you know that cold bear is gonna rock and roll. Hate to see it get in the fan. Keep the hot air comming once she starts.
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  #18  
Old 01-11-2007, 01:07 PM
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It does sound like a fuel gelling problem to me, Im here in london, and its not that cold, but I got a bad batch of fuel and my 300 SD took 4 tries to start today, started up immediatly then died, same thing kept happening,

fuel filter was changed 1000 miles ago, guess its time to change diesel stations.
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  #19  
Old 01-11-2007, 04:22 PM
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Temps I mention are always in Celcius..
Block heater, Glow plugs ate in A+ condition, all diesel this far north is winter diesel. I'm running on ULSD, have not added an antigel. car is parked outside in a parking lot, no shelter.

an Espar heater would have really saved my ass in this instance..or having perfect compression..
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  #20  
Old 01-11-2007, 04:48 PM
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but when she is running, look out!

yesterday was the big blizzard (biggest in 20 years) and I was driving past stuck Jeeps and other 4x4's the guys out here raking in the tow cash are the guys with the lifted F350 PSD's with lift kits and 44" tires.. and me I got 10$ for hauling a 4Motion Passat out of an intersection
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  #21  
Old 01-11-2007, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
"It's -30, with a -38 Windchill."

*C or *F?

Given that -40C equals -40F, my response would be "either!"
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  #22  
Old 01-11-2007, 05:34 PM
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Just went out to try it again, no go. I put the battery charger on it to see if that'll heat the battery enough as it charges to give it some more kick, if not, I'll have to get out the hair dryer. my neighbor passed me by as I was opening the hood and he suggested glowplug problems, I replaced them not too long ago, could the be bad already?!?!
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  #23  
Old 01-11-2007, 06:22 PM
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I think I'd at least try a little WD-40 sprayed into the air inlet to see if it would at least fire a little, that way you would know if you're gelled up or not without having to loosen injector lines and make a big mess, heck, my 300D needs ether to start below 20*F unless it's plugged in.
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  #24  
Old 01-11-2007, 06:22 PM
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You're sure the block plug is working aren't you? You have good cranking speed? The engine oughta be warm after 36 hours. I would bring the battery inside and let it warm up for a few hours - that is going to get it warmer than the charger will I think.
I concur about valve adjustment, not like you are going to do it in the present conditions, but if you are out of spec adjustment will help a bunch. You want the cylinder to be as full as possible when it starts to compress, so it can create maximum heat at full compression. If your valves are off you are either closing them early and not sucking in as much air as you could, or you closing late and are blowing air out that should remain in the cylinder.
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  #25  
Old 01-11-2007, 06:33 PM
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Plan B

I did a valve adjustment earlier this year, and it's in spec (or at least should be) not sure where it's at by now.

Lastnight's blizzard was very windy and snowy, when I lifted the hood the engine compartment was covered in snow. I hooked up the charger about an hour or two ago. I went out just now with hair dryer in hand and it seemed to respond to the hair dryer. I'm going to leave them running for a little while then go try...then my next plan is going to be to bring the battery inside..and charge it in here.

It's so cold here that the insulation on the wire leads for the battery charger are cracking.. when I get the car in my parent's garage, I'm going to have to go over everything to verify that my GP's and everything eles is indeed in good shape...
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  #26  
Old 01-11-2007, 06:48 PM
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Exclamation If you have snow under the hood.....

If you have snow under the hood.......especially if it's on the engine at any point.....I would doubt that the block heater is working.....

Heating the intake air works excellently.......heat gun or blow drier works best.....but a propane or other torch....USED CAREFULLY !!!....will work as well......

SB

It's a balmy 22 F here.......
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  #27  
Old 01-11-2007, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spark3542 View Post
Given that -40C equals -40F, my response would be "either!"
I was wondering if anyone was gonna say that...
-30 C is not the same though...
John
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  #28  
Old 01-11-2007, 07:05 PM
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What would a gallon of Methyl hydrate do to a half tank of diesel?
I happen to have such at hand!
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  #29  
Old 01-11-2007, 07:18 PM
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If the car won't start due to gelled fuel, it is likely in the lines and fuel filter and curing the problem in the tank still won't get it started.

Be sure you heat the fuel filter too.
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  #30  
Old 01-11-2007, 08:57 PM
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In another thread of mine I replied..

Quote:

****
Originally Posted by katja
....I agree, if you have a block heater & a place to plug it in, use it, it eliminates the rough idle & smoke at startup and sluggish feel when you first start driving plus it feels nice to have instant heat.
****

Instant heat??? on a 15*C day plugged in the block heater heats enough just to start, I'd hardly say "instant heat" Hmmm...Faulty Block heater!? can a block heater work, but not really well????

I can hear is sizzle when I plug it in like they all do, it's the type that is in the block and I'm going to assume it's original.
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