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  #1  
Old 01-11-2007, 01:51 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Western NJ
Posts: 163
E300 Turbodiesel- START COLD

Did a search but did not see anything quite like my issue in the forum. I have a '99 E300 with 170k miles. It has run normally up to today. We have had a non-winter in New Jersey until last night when the temp went to 15-20F. The car ran a little rough for the first ~15 minutes this morning but my 1hr+ ride to work was otherwise uneventful. The temp has now warmed up to 40F. I just went out to go to lunch and the car will not start. Car cranks fine as usual. Glow works as usual. I have had glow plugs out before (> 1 year ago) but there is no indication of that now. Sounds like the engine is not getting fuel. I have burned about half of this tank (straight #2 with no additives or kero mix) since filling up last weekend.
The car is in the office parking lot so I have no access to trouble lights, electrical power or significant tools (just have the very basic tool roll that came with the car).
Any recommendations appreciated. If the problem is fuel gelling induced and the afternoon remains in the vicinity of 40 degrees, what are the chances this problem will fix itself over the next few hours ? Don't want to call the tow truck and have the dealer tell me there was no trouble found in their heated service bay.
Thanks,
Ken
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2014 E250 Bluetec 4-Matic
2014 GL350 Bluetec 4-Matic
1996 Chevy Tahoe 4 x 4
2009 ML350 (sold)
2005 SLK350 (sold)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel (sold)
1998 ML320 (sold)
1991 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel (sold)
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  #2  
Old 01-11-2007, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
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Go look at the fuel lines and see if there is air or fuel in them...it sounds to me like you have a leak which is allowing it to "lose its prime" which happens especially below 1/2 tank and worse if on an incline with the nose up. If you have air in there check the prefilter o-ring.

I still would not rule out glow plugs since that is what is sounds like to me, but since you say you had them serviced last year it may be more likely air in the lines. I would not say at 40F you need to worry about fuel gelling...it's much colder than that here and we've had no problems and never do.
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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2007, 02:08 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Walnut Creek, CA (one day 6052'53.93"N, 15049'39.24"W)
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Check for any fuel leaks that may be allowing air to enter causing you to lose your fuel prime.

Check all fuel lines in and around the fuel filter housing and IP, top of the IP for delivery valve leaks and the shutoff valve on side of IP.

If you find a leak you have found the problem and should still be able to start it with a good battery by manually carnking the starter 30 secs at a time for 3 cycles then allowing it to cool for 5 minutes b4 trying again.

If no leak is present it may be the K40 relay is acting up.

Lots of leaks lately with the new ULSD. Is also possible the extra cold has resulted is just enough contraction to occur to result in a leak or problem with the circut board connections in the K40 relay.

The rough idle this morning makes it sound like a leak to me.
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N. Calif.

09' E320 Bluetec 77k
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  #4  
Old 01-11-2007, 03:42 PM
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Location: Annapolis, MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
Lots of leaks lately with the new ULSD.
Yep. I just had the o-rings on the IP (where the hardlines to the injectors attach to the top of hte IP) replaced this week. Had them do the plastic fuel lines at the same time. The only thing I didn't address was the shut off valve because it wasn't leaking. Of course two days later when I get it home...I get another leak...so back to the shop it goes.

Hopefully MB is ramping up production of these plastic fuel lines and o-rings.
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  #5  
Old 01-11-2007, 03:57 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Western NJ
Posts: 163
Thank you much for the quick response. I did see some air bubbles in the line and there was some fuel odor in the engine compartment. The fuel lines were all replaced about a year ago when the fuel shut-off valve was also done. I talked with my independent shop about the current issue. He will take a look at it first thing in the morning. He said they are seeing a lot of fuel leaks which seem to coincide with the introduction of the ultra low sulfur diesel fuel. Will report back to the Forum Group on final outcome.
Thanks,
Ken
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2014 E250 Bluetec 4-Matic
2014 GL350 Bluetec 4-Matic
1996 Chevy Tahoe 4 x 4
2009 ML350 (sold)
2005 SLK350 (sold)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel (sold)
1998 ML320 (sold)
1991 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel (sold)
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2007, 04:07 PM
F18 F18 is offline
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Location: Massachusetts
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Ken,
Have the Indy check the "O" ring on the little primary filter...since everything else was replaced. That $2.50 part that cost $.03 to produce can stop any well maintained E300 dead in its tracks if it starts drawing enough air. In fact...I would buy an extra one and keep it in your glove compartment.
Good luck
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FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2007, 04:35 PM
ncof300d
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Next itme that I replace the o-rings I believe that I might use Viton. Viton is much more resistant to break down from fuel and heat cycling. Viton is not cheap, but a I figure that it is a little insurance to prevent tinys leaks that stop the giant.

Here is a source for Viton o-rings:
mcmaster.com
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2007, 05:11 PM
F18 F18 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncof300d View Post
Next itme that I replace the o-rings I believe that I might use Viton. Viton is much more resistant to break down from fuel and heat cycling. Viton is not cheap, but a I figure that it is a little insurance to prevent tinys leaks that stop the giant.

Here is a source for Viton o-rings:
mcmaster.com
If I had known about this source on Viton a year or so ago I would have used it instead of the New Old Stock "O' rings that the dealers are passing off on us. I have been putting it off...but I will use Viton when I change them out on the IP delivery lines. They are not that expensive.... the only draw back is that they are in packs of 25 or more. But at $4.50 to $8.00 dollars a pack
depending on size... whats the difference if you have a few left over. Besides you can send them off by mail to another member in need!
Any idea what the size (ID & OD) is of the ones used on the delivery lines?
Cheers,
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FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2007, 05:19 PM
ncof300d
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F18 View Post
Any idea what the size (ID & OD) is of the ones used on the delivery lines?
Cheers,
Hose seals O-ring
13mm OD
8mm ID
2.5mm thick

Shut-off Valve O-ring
17mm OD
12mm ID
2.5mm thick

I regret to inform you that I do not know the size if the o-ring under the prefilter.
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  #10  
Old 01-11-2007, 07:57 PM
F18 F18 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 677
Quote:
Originally Posted by ncof300d View Post
Hose seals O-ring
13mm OD
8mm ID
2.5mm thick

Shut-off Valve O-ring
17mm OD
12mm ID
2.5mm thick

I regret to inform you that I do not know the size if the o-ring under the prefilter.
Thanks, what are the dementions of the O' Rings of the IP delivery valves? Are they the same as the hose seals?
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FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K
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