I thought the general concensus was that the carbon build up was responsible for the stuck gp's.

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85 300sd 400k
99 e300td 101k (hers)
34' californian twin 5.9 cummins
1999 F350 Powerjoke 75k
2001 F150 Supercrew 51k
19681/2 GT/CS

I use the intervals as a guide. For say the water pump. I would change the belts and then test the pump to see if it turns smoothly or has any sign of a leak intermittent or otherwise. For hoses, change when I see any sign of wear and tear. Through check BEFORE I go on any long trip. Fuel filters 30K and not 60K since I am not that sure of the fuel quality.

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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

Dunno. I took my prechambers out at 60 and 120K. Either way, not much carbon in them. When I had to drill, there was only the threads holding it in.

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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

The problem is there is no concensus...some strongly believe carbon is the cause...others strongly believe dis-similar metals cause a galvonic reaction at the threads, another theory is that unless the plugs are threaded all the way in they get stuck coming out...all I know is this...if I were going to attempt to remove mine here's how I would do it:

1)I'd soak the plugs with PB blaster for several days prior to the operation.

2) I'd do it on a HOT engine...even if it meant removing the IM after the motor was fully heated and running it again with the IM off just prior to attempting to remove them to make sure it was as hot as possible.

3) I'd use a deep socket in an impact tool, first set to the lowest possible torque; well under the torque required to tighten the plug. I'd let it knock-knock-knock away at it lightly, for several minutes if necessary before setting the tool to a higher torque and trying again. I'm a big proponent of using impact to loosen stuck stuff...this is how I would do it.

4) Assuming I got them all out OK, I'd use the recommended reamer and clean out all of the holes well. Then apply copper based anti-seize on the new plugs before installing them.

I still would not do it until necessary, but this is how I plan on doing it next time.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

These were what I paid at local dealer, probably make some sick, my dealer seems cheap usually.

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raMBow

1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck
2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5
(2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg
2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work
1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg

Hi Guys
I am going to be replacing my O rings and fuel lines also on a 96 210 118k miles. Should I do the IP copper seals and O rings or wait till they leak? No leaks yet.

On the GP issue: I just did mine with little trouble taking them out. Lots of penetrating oil and good tools and PATIENCE are key. Probably a good idea if all of the above are present.
Steve

My DV seals were replaced 2.5 years ago and started leaking again a couple of weeks ago. Seemed pretty short lived to me when the OEM seals lasted 5 years. I have probably burned 50% of B99 tanks during the last 6-9 mos and then there is the recent switch over to USLD to consider in determining cause of failure. Can not say with certainty which was responsible but lean toward the USLD and differences in aromatics added to the new fuel personnaly.

The DV's are not difficult to do although does require the Im to come off again and requires a special MB splined socket. The porper torque value is 35nm (~26 ft lbs). I would probably do them if you do not know their age. You need to clean the engine and IP first and then keep everything surgical clean if you do them. Rinse the valves in clean diesel to clean and lube prior to re-assembly. Be careful not to lose any springs. Buy new hard inj line plastic clip holders as they get brittle and break form being exposed to engine heat. You'll aslo need a new IM gaskett and a EGR seal ring. On your 96 you prob have another seal ring (or 2) on your crossover also.

I also had to do a 2 can diesel purge to get rid of some slight nailing after doing mine.

Be certain to keep your old fuel line from the fuel thermo to the pre-filter as you can cut it down and use it later when doing a purge. That old line makes that job even easier.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Thanks Terry. I'll order the Injection pump parts. Are they available from fastlane anyone know?
Steve

Yep. Although the plastic clips were O/S two weeks ago.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)