Is it easier to remove the fuel injector lines before removing glow plugs? And am I correct in assuming that you do not have to bleed the line as is done when changing the fuel filter?
Would leaving the ignition switch on cause glow plug failure?

Thanks for all the help

Fuel injection lines???

What happened to the headlights??

Yes, I recommend that you remove the hard lines when doing glow plugs. It takes about 10 minutes and your hands will thank you for it.

A couple of caveats:

1) Don't overtighten the nuts when you reinstall. They don't need much torque to seal and most folks go crazy with too much torque.

2) Don't even think of using a wrench to reinstall until you've started the nuts by hand and are positive that they are started. If they don't line up........bend them into place before starting the nut. Tighten the nuts on the IP first and then install and tighten the nuts on the injectors.

3) When you go to start it, there will be no fuel in the lines. Mash you right foot on the floor and hold the key in the start position. It should start within 15 seconds.

4) Cover the outlet ports on the IP when the lines are off. You don't want any foreign material dropping in there. It will plug the injectors for sure.


Leaving the ignition switch on will not cause glow plug failure. The plugs shut down after about 35 seconds or as soon as you turn the key to the start position.

When removing the hard lines, should I remove the bracket that connects two lines before removing the hard lines or does it matter? I have also heard that carbon buildup may be present after removal of the glow plugs, what is needed to remove carbon build up?

Thanks

No,
keep the lines connected together. it makes it easier to reassemble. and it keeps them together so you don't have to guess much which lines go where.
if worse comes to worse, loosen the brackets to get the lines connected to the IP and the injectors.
John

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My drivers:
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1987 190D 2.5Turbo
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1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I can change five glow plugs on a 617 in 61 minutes. That is just using a box end wrench. Fuel lines still in place.

I still think removing the lines would be an easier way to go.
What about the carbon buildup?

MB FSM :
15.8-705/6 F3

"When the key is turned into position " 3" ( start ) the power relay - activated by terminal 50 - remains in energized condition. The glow process continues until the key is turned to position " 2" ."

There's a glow plug reamer to remove the carbon.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

KRGC, I think Brian is right on about removing the injector lines first. I did it the hard way and it took me a couple of hours with a lot of aggrivation I starting out with a box end wrench (which was really a pain because of the limited access) and eventually purchased a set of those cool ratcheting wrenches with the tilt heads to finish the job
It would have been much easier to take the lines off first. my biggest challenge was removing and installing the terminal nuts on the plugs without dropping them into the abyss between the block and IP! In the end, I found that using a 6 -8 inch long piece of rubber hose to grab the nut while was a real lifesaver. Good Luck.

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1985 300D Turbo California Model (134K)

..........or until 35 seconds have elapsed.........whichever comes first.

When are you finally going to realize that the manual is not absolutely perfect in all respects?

Fill the abyss with rags so you wont lose your nuts.
I did mine without removing the injector lines. It wasn't that hard but the sharp corners on the line holders can be irritating. It might be adequate just to remove the holders to minimize the vocabulary necessary for the job.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

If you decide to change them without removing the injector lines, ratcheting wrenches such as these will make the process much more quick:


I've changed mine twice now without removing the lines. The first time I used regular box-end wrenches, second with the ratchets -- cut the time by more than half!

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1998 E300 +310,000K
1996 E300 +460,000K

I'd sure like to know the trick to getting a hand down between the injector lines to remove and install the 6mm nut? I've never figured out how to do that and will gladly spend the 10 minutes to remove and reinstall the lines.

I recently did #5 and it took 60 minutes just for that one plug. I could not get my hand down past the throttle linkage and, eventually caved in and disconnected it at the firewall. With the injector lines in place, I'd still be out there.

I remove the hard lines as a "unit" then use a gear wrench for the rest. No bleeding necessary. (knuckles or fuel system )

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I just did mine and left the hard lines in place. It was not too bad, but I sure do want some ratcheting box wrences now. I was able to use a deep 12mm socket on the #1, and the same socket with a u-joint on the #2. Rest were with the regular 12mm box.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K