Well there you go, then.

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1998 E300 +310,000K
1996 E300 +460,000K

I had problems with the door locks on my car so I took out the pump and opened the control end and removed the circuit board, the circuit board plugs into two connectors and these connections don't always make good contact so I bent the pins just a little and put it all back together and it has worked perfect for the last year. I did have a vacumn leak and started testing by unpluging the line to the gas door and testing from there, still not holding so I lifted the carpet on the passanger side floor and opened the raceway and at that point I tested each line to each door lock. That let me determine which lock was having problems. The time to do all the testing took only 30 to 45 minutes.

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1983 300SD
200000miles

My FSM says the pump will only run for like 35 seconds, then will shut off automatically, regardless of pressure or vacuum. This is on an '83.

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2009 VW TDI Jetta Sportwagon 172k miles (rear-ended harder than Elton John on 8/4/13. Total loss)

1991 Volvo 240 142k miles (T-boned by a stop sign runner. Total loss)

My door locks are slow. I'd meant to do this a while back, never had the time. Someone else recommended golf tees, I thought just one, to test the lines one by one. He said the pump was under the rear seat; just lift it up.

How do you test the lines? Do you have someone locking the doors while you have a golf tee in one of the rubber hoses? If you find a bad line, how do you know it's bad? I'm assuming if you plug a bad one, the locks will lock properly, since you've eliminated the problem? Then once you find the problem child, how do you fix it? Just replace the rubber vac hose?

Thanks,

jeff 1991 300d, 100k

Plastic @ Autozone (for less than $30.00 U.S.)