does anybody else have problems with their doorlocks and shutoff when it is cold?As some of you know I recently had to move to a colder climate.Now as it gets colder,I find that my doorlocks do not all work all the time.as well the shutoff(key) does not always work.correct me if I am wrong,but if vacuum was leaking would it also affect shifting?
When car wont stop,I can do one of two things.both seem to work....
1-wait patiently for about 10-15 secs and car will stop.
or
2-push door locks down and wait about 5-10 secs and car will stop.
Are the door lock mechanisms "lubed" at all?or is it a dry system?I have not dismantled one yet(kinda cold out there) so I have no personal exp with that system yet.
this is not an "all the time" prob.it also is not always effected by the cold.I.E.-yesterday AM no shut-off and not all door locks unlocked or locked.whereas this AM all worked as it should.thoughts....

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1984 300D turbo 155k

www.interactivepainmanagement.com

Cold temperatures are causing a vacuum leak(s) somewhere. Not atypical in my experience. The rubber joints are harder in cold weather and less likely to seal. Such leaks are hard to find since the leak is intermittent, just like my desire to find them when its cold.
Effect on shifting depends on the year of the car. What year/model are you talking about. For instance, SD's have a separate vacuum system for the door locks whereas 123's dont.

Sorry, missed your signature with the model info.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Maybe a leaky footwell actuator pod? You'd probably have heat to floor when it's cold out.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

To test Sixto's hypothesis, push the far right button on the climate control, turning it off, and see if the locks and shut off improve.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

actually no heat to floor at all,but all of the pods tested solid.I think the floor heat issue is one of the switches behind the ccu.

__________________
1984 300D turbo 155k

www.interactivepainmanagement.com

That's evidence of a leak somewhere. Now try kerry edwards' suggestion.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

When you're checking the little rubber stubs on the ends of the vacuum lines, just bend it 90° and look for cracks (buy tubing before hand). Also, if the stub comes off easy, replace it (even if it's not cracking).

Good Luck!

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

did not make a difference.still shuts right off sometimes and not so "right off" other times.All four locks went up and down perfectly,but car did not turn right off.yesterday,all four did not go up and down and car shut right down.

__________________
1984 300D turbo 155k

www.interactivepainmanagement.com

I checked those before while dealing with testing the pods they were not unhealthy at all..which BTW hold vacuum just fine.when I pull the yellow check-valve there is a very satifactory hiss.I did not time until it stopped,but suffice to say that it hissed for several moments before stopping.When last I tested the vacuum pump it was giving in the mid 20s if I recall correctly.Is it possible that the vacuum pump is reacting somehow to the temp variances?At first I thought it was just not warm,but after about anhours drive it still does the same thing intermittently.thoughts....

__________________
1984 300D turbo 155k

www.interactivepainmanagement.com

yeah, I have similar problems with the locks and shut-off diaphram. I've learned to live with it. not that big of a deal for me to go under hood and press the STOP lever. My Vaccum system is a mess for the transmission, but I'm slowly getting it ironed out, so I can't comment on whether or not it's effecting my shifting.

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

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FACEBOOK: PANZER450

I had intermittent shutoff problems with my '79 240D, cured it with a new shutoff diaphragm. my weasel curiosity got the best of me and I took a dremel grinder, and cut the housing on the old shutoff assembly, and there were barely perceptible pinholes in the diaphragm. For the price of a replacement shutoff, it was worth it not to have to go under the hood to stop the engine...very easy to replace.(another retired marine engineer)

Could be the "Flux-Capacitor"...

There is a possible alternative to opening the hood and pushing the stop lever. Run a separate vacuum line directly from the shut off either into the passenger compartment or out of the hood at the cowl. Suck on it to shut it down. When I was having undiagnosed vacuum problems last week, I did just that and simply had to give two quick sucks on the line sticking out of the hood and it shut right down. My wife however, was not willing to accept such innovative developments.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I do not actually have to get out and use the stop lever.I just turn the key off and wait about 10-15 sec and it sputters off.Not all the time as I said before.Sometimes the locks do not all go up or down.the two do not always coincide.

all worked as it should today so far.

__________________
1984 300D turbo 155k

www.interactivepainmanagement.com

more likely the doo-hickey....

__________________
1984 300D turbo 155k

www.interactivepainmanagement.com