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#61
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What model of the gearbox is fitted? 717.XXX?
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No vibrations? |
#62
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Thank you for your assistance!
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#63
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With a 2.5 non-turbo in the snowless south the question begs why? You're not going to have trouble spinning tires.
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#64
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If you have a 185mm diff and want to utilize a 165mm diff, then I found it easier to swap over the entire subframe.
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#65
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Yes, noise is only under load at between around 1400 -1900 rpms in 3rd and 4th gears only. There is no obvious vibration that I can feel. One of my sons has been driving the car for a while but he has returned to school and I'm going to start using it as my DD so I will be able to begin trying some things to identify the source. I thought the earlier suggestioin of bushings on the middle shifter rod were a logical place to start. We did not replace those bushings during the tranny swap and I don't recall them being in great shape. Where would you start looking?
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#66
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Walkenvol,
Sir, #107 is the axle flange. and #5 is the axle shaft |
#67
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OK, here is distinction of the 165 and 185 mm diffs:
In case of swap 165 to 185 or 185 to 165, it needs: diff axle shafts flange of propeller shaft from "old" diff Last edited by Dr. Sternschnuppe; 01-10-2014 at 10:42 AM. |
#68
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#69
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The bottom line to me is the 185mm diff is beefier than the 165mm including everything that attaches to it; drive shaft, axle flanges and axles. I did not compare the hubs as once I understood the axles would need to be swapped it became apparant swapping the entire subframe would be less work to get it rolling until I could locate a 185mm diff with the desired gearing. Thanks to your help and others, it appears I've found what I need and will get about returning the original beefier subframe componets.
__________________
You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#70
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__________________
You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#71
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I mean all bushings, rubber parts, etc.
But shifter bushings... Hm, maybe it will help. |
#72
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__________________
Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon. |
#73
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I agree. After doing some research, it will be too much trouble. I still plan on doing a brake upgrade on my car, probably the 400E and I wanted to use the master cylinder and brake booster out of my parts car but its ABS unfortunately. My master cylinder is on its way out, so it begs the question, can I use a W201 non-ABS master cylinder in the 2.6's brake booster? It is a bigger and better booster than the one I have, would work better with the 400E brakes than my current one. 400E brakes may seem a bit overkill but even with a functioning master cylinder, the stopping distances on a 190D 2.5 are abysmal, somewhere around 150ft if I recall correctly. I have wider tires on the 16 inch E class rims installed by the PO which adds unsprung weight but also bigger contact patch when I have functioning brakes again.
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon. |
#74
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But only standard diff without ETS/ASD (housing p/n 124 351 06 05). C 220 (202.022) - 3,07 C 230 (202.023) - 3,27 C 230 (202.024) - 3.46 C 280 (202.028) - 2.87/3.07 |
#75
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Also you can use (better if you use ) master cylinder + booster from 400 E. It's possible to fit. Last edited by Dr. Sternschnuppe; 01-11-2014 at 04:52 AM. |
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