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  #1  
Old 01-28-2007, 05:07 AM
JWJ JWJ is offline
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ATE brakes more painful than Bendix?

Previously, I have replaced the front brake pads on my 1985 300TD (wagon) with ease. It has Bendix calipers on just the front. The repalcement pads were VXE.

Last night I replaced the rear brake pads. What a pain... They were ATE calipers and ATE brake pads. The new pads (VXE brand) refused to easily slide in. The calipers were pushed back all the way. The problem appeared to be that the upper and lower edges (and back) of the medal plate had a black coating on them and made the over all length slightly longer than the original pads being replaced. Once I removed this coating on the ends of the plate the pads slid in easier (but not easily).

Of course the front and rear brake pads are different.

So is this issue because of a difference of the caliper manufactors or due to a usual difference in front vs. rear replacement ease or the brake pad brand (VXE)?

Thanks

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JWJ
1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG
1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG
Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines!
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  #2  
Old 01-28-2007, 09:34 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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there will be some build up of rust and so forth on any caliper. i usually have to take a little metal off the sides of my new pads so they will slide in easily. technically perhaps one should clean the caliper but the pads are a lot easier. i have a grinder in my garage and a few minutes on each edge and they will slide in just fine.

no difference between ate and bendix in this matter.

good luck

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #3  
Old 01-28-2007, 09:53 AM
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Most calipers have accumulated a good bit of rust and debris where the pads ride. This should be thoroughly cleaned with a wire brush. The debris and rust needs to be removed to allow the pads to install, however, of greater importance, is that the pads are allowed to slide on this surface. As the pads wear, the pad must move toward the rotor and any rust/dirt/debris will impede the progress of the pad.

I clean the cast iron surfaces of the caliper thoroughly and then add a touch of grease to those surfaces to stop the rust for awhile. The pads always slide right in.

Avoids the need to get your grinder out and go ballistic on the pad edges.
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  #4  
Old 01-28-2007, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Avoids the need to get your grinder out and go ballistic on the pad edges.
I always ease the edges on the grinder. It seems to help them not squeel, just one of those things I do
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  #5  
Old 01-28-2007, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
I always ease the edges on the grinder. It seems to help them not squeel, just one of those things I do
My belief is that any squeal is caused by a vibration of the pad against the piston face. I use the "anti-squeal" spray on the backs of the pads to prevent this vibration. So far........so good.
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  #6  
Old 01-28-2007, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWJ View Post
Last night I replaced the rear brake pads. What a pain... They were ATE calipers and ATE brake pads. The new pads (VXE brand) refused to easily slide in.
Aftermarket parts need to be engineered to fit the original equipment. Not the other way around.
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  #7  
Old 01-28-2007, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
My belief is that any squeal is caused by a vibration of the pad against the piston face. I use the "anti-squeal" spray on the backs of the pads to prevent this vibration. So far........so good.
Yah, that "easing the edges" might be a "old wives's tail". I also use the orange anti squeak stuff.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #8  
Old 01-28-2007, 04:03 PM
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I like ate more.


comes with a better spring plate.
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  #9  
Old 01-28-2007, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monomer View Post
I like ate more.


comes with a better spring plate.
Me too
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #10  
Old 01-28-2007, 09:10 PM
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Ive dealt with both caliper designs and the only differences I remember were the retaining clips and the retaining pins. Neither was any harder or easier to change pads out.
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  #11  
Old 01-28-2007, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
My belief is that any squeal is caused by a vibration of the pad against the piston face. I use the "anti-squeal" spray on the backs of the pads to prevent this vibration. So far........so good.
I believe the same, i changed out the front pads of the S420. Used mintex pads, the olds pads i took out where textar and they make alot of dust! The mintex dont seem to make to much dust.

But i did sand the edges of the mintex pads to get them in. The caliper surprisingly wasnt rusty but i used brake cleaner to clean the caliper and rotor. I used MB brake paste on the back of the new pads.

The rear squeeled very loudly so i pulled them (pads looked almost new) and put the MB brake paste on the back of the pads....wha la! no more squeeling.
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2007, 09:44 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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i prefer ate too.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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