The directions I got on the forum were so simple. It didn't workout that way. I removed the underside hex bolt on one side. Then I jacked the engine to remove the cover plate then the 2 hex bolts that hold it on. The hex bolt closest to the engine is almost impossible to get to. Any one have any suggestions on how to get to it. I worked 2 hrs trying a hex key and couldn't get any where. I'm afraid its about to strip.

Use a hex bit or cut off a piece of an allen wrench and turn it with a combination wrench. Access might be easier from below.

There was no room for a hex bit. only about 1, 1 1/4 inches room between. How high can the engine be raised. Should I worry about any lines breaking, etc.
Ray M

To facilitate raising the engine, disconnect the accelerator rod at the firewall and disconnect the fan shroud. Then you should be able to lift the engine without worry.

Are the support arms attached to the engine that sit on top of the hard to remove, or should I stay away from there. RAY M

Absolutely no need to do that.

Sounds like you just need to go up a little higher with the engine. I had a hard time with the drivers side closest to the engine........
Unhook items noted above and jack away.

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

I did this job recently on my 1984 300SD (along with oil cooler line replacement), and it is difficult. You must be laying on the ground under the car to do this, and I ended up cutting off an inch or so from the long end of the allen wrench in order to have room to swing it. I also found that deep breathing exercises helped while under the car with dirt specks in my eyes (where safety glasses!) and cramps in my arm/hand.

Gilbert

I'm starting in on it again. I'll get back later with results. Thanks

With the underside bolts undone, jack the engine up as high as you can and use a 1/4 drive 6mm allen or use a swivel allen, I use the swivel and it allows for better access.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

I did all of the mounts (and engine shock) on my 240D last summer - tedious work, but be patient. As noted above jack up the motor higher after taking care of the throttle linkage and fan shroud. Do a little at a time and check it out. Make sure all bolts are soaked with PB Blaster or equivalent. My biggest problem came at the end of the job when putting the driver's side bolt in - had to have a kid on a prybar to move engine over so holes lined up. Handy to have a second person at that time. All turned out well and was worth the effort. Happy wrenching

__________________
'85 300D - 206K (sold)
'81 240D - 149K (sold)
'03 Jetta TDI - (sold)
'79 300D - (sold)

What do you mean by a swivel allen?
It finally gave with an allen wrench slid through the end of a bar to give prying leverage. I then went on to the trans mount and a bushing for the linkage. That bushing was a PITA. They don't just slip in there. I ended up using the flat end of a crowbar on one side, and a the handle of a screw driver wedged in to brace up the other side so it wouldn't bend when i pried it on. Thanks All . Next week I'll be doing valve stem seals. See you then. RAY M PS