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  #1  
Old 02-08-2007, 01:22 AM
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Here yall go. New radiator cap that stops corrosion!!!

Here, check this out guys. Im going to buy one next week.



http://www.radcapproducts.com/radcap.html

A few friends have it and I figured it share it with everyone because corrosion can be a problem with our older cars.

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  #2  
Old 02-08-2007, 01:32 AM
ForcedInduction
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It's a radiator cap with a magnesium anode on a string.....

It needs to be in the main flow to work. There is no flow through the expansion bottle.

Don't waste $20.
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2007, 09:52 AM
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so it should work on my 240D ? i dont have a expansion tank.
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  #4  
Old 02-08-2007, 09:55 AM
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all the New MB's use something similar to maintain the coolant properties. they have something like 10 year coolant change recommendations. it's not in the cap though.
John
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  #5  
Old 02-08-2007, 09:58 AM
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Why would one need an anode in a closed cooling system? We use them on boats in the salt water side, but not the fresh. But yeah you need flow, they are usualy in the heat exchangers and passages in the block.

My last radiator was about 20 years old and not corroded, I don't see a reason. Spend the money on Mercedes coolant and change it every 2-3 years.
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  #6  
Old 02-08-2007, 12:35 PM
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Snake Oil..... The idea of using a sacrafical anode has been arround for some time, but the anode has to be in contact with the block,

Basically on boats, the anode is attached directly to the motor, or directly to the hull of steel boats, Just dangling in the rad tank will do nothing.

Im an engineer and a sailor, and I would not buy this product. my 2 cents.
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  #7  
Old 02-08-2007, 12:36 PM
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Correct, it needs to be screwed into the block or radiator. There would be no contact with just a radiator cap.
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  #8  
Old 02-08-2007, 01:31 PM
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we put anodes in oil coolers too on the boats but still the premise is correct the rad cap in an expansion tank does nothing
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  #9  
Old 02-08-2007, 01:47 PM
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On a boat...the corrosion fallout off the anode get's washed away.....where's it gonna go in the cooling system? ...supposing it would work.

There's something missing????......Oh yeah....AS SEEN ON TV.




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  #10  
Old 02-08-2007, 02:54 PM
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On the boat the anodes still on a closed system with coolant salt water cools the coolant thru a cooler Or on my boat I have Keel pipes attached to the hull Ocean water cools the engine coolant inside the pipes zinc anodes attached to the pipes as sacrifice to the sea
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  #11  
Old 02-08-2007, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddogg20
Here, check this out guys. Im going to buy one next week.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
It's a radiator cap with a magnesium anode on a string.....
To work, the magnesium needs to react with something. What's it going to react with? It will be installed in a closed system, but all their testing was done on a system open to the atmosphere, and with used coolant which probably isn't very similar to what is in your MB.
What chemical compound is created? They don't say. As the Mg reacts, it creates some new compound. Often the result will be an oxide. Some oxides, like aluminium oxide, are very abrasive (that's why they make sandpaper with it). Is whatever Mg compound created bad for the system?

You might want to get these questions answered before trying it. If you're going to flush the system every year, it probably doesn't matter, but if you intend to leave it for ten years, it probably does.

Of course, you could just try it and see. I can't see it's likely to cause much damage. Particles will most likely settle in the radiator where they'll do little harm, corrosion protection will be supplied by the Mg, and if it has any negative effects on the coolant performance, well, I would like to think they would have noticed in their testing and not brought the product to market.
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  #12  
Old 02-08-2007, 05:56 PM
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Hmmm, I just checked Nigel Calders book on marine bonding systems and sacrificial anodes. A sacrificial anode does not necessarily need to be in the "flow" just in the same solution as the other metals it is protecting. Marine engine zincs are in the raw water side of the cooling circuit, usually in the heat exchangers. Exterior zincs are simply bolted to the outside of the hull immersed in sea water. Think of a "zinc fish" commonly hung over the sides of boats for a little extra protection.

The common thing here is that the sacrificial anodes have to be bonded or electrically connected to the other metals to work! The engine zincs are "connected" because they are screwed into the engine parts. Shaft zincs and bolted to the shaft. Transom and hull zincs are connected to the bonding system in the boat that is attached to all the other metal bits of the boat, engine, thru-hulls, etc. Zinc fish are attached to the engine block with an alligator clip.

The radiator cap anode system would have to be connected to the engine block to work correctly. If installed in a metal radiator then it may be electrically connected to the chassis and therefore the engine block. On an MB there would have to be a wire to connect it to the chassis or block as the plastic expansion tank would isolate it.

Does it work? Dunno. Coolant already has additive to deal with the galvanic corrosion issues in cooling systems due to dissimilar metals being mixed in a common system. A cooling system that has proper maintenance should not need an anode. I'm betting however that if plain water was being used for coolant then this product may be beneficial.

RT
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  #13  
Old 02-08-2007, 06:14 PM
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PH leaning towards acid or base is what does the most damage IMO. Maintaining fresh coolant in the proper ratio is the best defense.
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  #14  
Old 02-08-2007, 08:11 PM
ncof300d
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icefire View Post
Snake Oil..... The idea of using a sacrafical anode has been arround for some time, but the anode has to be in contact with the block,

Basically on boats, the anode is attached directly to the motor, or directly to the hull of steel boats, Just dangling in the rad tank will do nothing.

Im an engineer and a sailor, and I would not buy this product. my 2 cents.
I had to replace the radiator on my 1981 300D. The radiator was leaking between the core and the top plastic end cap. Also the hose tube on the same end cap was broken which I believe was cause by the material weakening as the result of incorrect coolant. Beside these issues the core was in great shape. I replaced the radiator with a used one that had an excellent core.

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