Y'all,

Is it possible to undo the transmission mount and lower the transmission (thus tilting the engine/transmission assembly) so as to get better access to the lower end of the Bowden cable on my W123 300td? Can the transmission be lowered this way without damaging the engine mounts or anything else (all else aside, I figure the limit would be when the valve cover contacted the firewall)? I suppose I'd also need to undo the front driveshaft flex disc and the exhaust. I don't have large hands and can usually work in tight/obstructed places, but even with my car on a lift while I was servicing the transmission, I gave up on replacing the Bowden cable -- very frustrating!

Thanks in advance,
Shawn

Don't forget the linkage to the shifter.

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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
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'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold

Also remove the engine shocks and loosen the motor mounts so that you do not tear them up. Also make sure you have enough slack in the fuel lines, and be careful of the a/c lines. It just depends on how far you are loweringthe tranny. Disconnect the fan shroud as well.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Good inputs -- thanks! I hadn't considered the shocks. I won't be lowering the transmission too far, so I think the shifter cable should be able to flex fine.

One more thing: Disconnect the dipstick tube from the air intake manifold. I just ran into this while trying to take my auto trans out for a 4spd manual swap.

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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
-------------------------------------
'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold

I'm sure that's a "gotcha" for removing the transmission, but I'm tilting the engine/transmission assembly -- there should be no issue in this case.

Well, I got the deed done last night. It was indeed much easier for me to replace the Bowden cable with the transmission lowered -- it would have been even more of a PITA than it already is if I hadn't done so.

I had to undo:

1. The transmission mount
2. The flex disc
3. The shift rod (only because of the shift gate -- there is plenty of movement available if you or someone wants to guide the shifter through the gate while lowering)
4. The accelerator rod between the firewall and valve cover brackets

I had to loosen:

1. The engine mounts
2. The heater hose clamps behind the valve cover (to rotate them out of the way -- this might not be an issue depending on how yours are installed)

I did not have to loosen or undo:

1. The engine shocks
2. The fan or fan shroud

The limit on lowering was head contact with the sway bar. With the transmission lowered, it was easy to get a thin screwdriver between the lower cable housing and transmission case and pop it off. To keep the internal rod in a position that made it easy to connect the cable end to it, I used a pair of needle-nosed pliers with a stout rubber band over the handles to grip the rod once I pulled it up. It was also easier to clean in and around the hole with the transmission lowered.

I hope this helps someone else with this PITA task!