Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!) - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JimmyL · #16 02-14-2007, 01:41 AM

I enjoy your sickness more all the time. The cleanest motor ever, and your garage floor is cleaner than our plates!

That level of sickness is to be commended!!
Now, let me vent. You and Rashakor enjoyed this MB bonding experience, and just left us other Dallas guys out in the cold.....

Yall need to publicize your next project.
On another note, thanks so much for the time and effort on your write up with pics of the job AND different tool choices. It was Dave Morrison quality.
Just awesome!

tangofox007 · #17 02-14-2007, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

Few questions:

Total shell out was what, about $400 for the press (20 ton and the long shaft joint one). Think funds would have been spent better on the "Official" MB tool?

An arbor press has countless application possibilities. The "Official" MB tool has but one.

dannym · #18 02-14-2007, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bodyart27

Remember to install the lower control arm bushings with the flats of the bushing in parallel with the control arm...

I thought that was supposed to be parallel to the spring perch??
Can you confirm this either way?

Also that ball joint popper, BMW makes one exactly the same for around $100. I don't know what the MB one costs.

Nice writeup!

Danny

R Leo · #19 02-14-2007, 09:50 AM

Great write-up.

Ya know, you could eat off of Shell's shop floor but then you'd feel guilty for making a mess!

R Leo · #20 02-14-2007, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

An arbor press has countless application possibilities. The "Official" MB tool has but one.

The Harbor Freight 'C' clamp type ball joint press also works very nicely to install BJs and is just a shade over $30. It can be used to install trailing arm bushings and a multitude of other things. But, it's marginal on LCA bushings.

Ken300D · #21 02-14-2007, 09:58 AM

What is a source for the JTC tool that presses in the new ball joints?

I found the company's web site in Taiwan by doing a Google search. They seem to have several MB-specific tools. Unless they are a front for a mainland company, Taiwan tools would have a higher quality than Chinese.

Ken300D

bodyart27 · #22 02-14-2007, 10:03 AM

Ken 300D: "What is a source for the JTC tool that presses in the new ball joints?"

Answer: Seller “Kinetik Auto Equipment Tools” on eBay sells the ball joint press

tangofox007 · #23 02-14-2007, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken300D

What is a source for the JTC tool that presses in the new ball joints?

I found the company's web site in Taiwan by doing a Google search. They seem to have several MB-specific tools. Unless they are a front for a mainland company, Taiwan tools would have a higher quality than Chinese.

Ken300D

It appears to me that JTC copies some of the high quality US tools. (Imagine that!!!) However, they fall short on some of the finer details. I bought a JTC tie rod puller, against my better judgement. It had a sharp edge that stripped the threads on the screw. The corresponding US tool had a contoured shoulder so that would not happen.

SD Blue · #24 02-14-2007, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym

I thought that was supposed to be parallel to the spring perch??
Can you confirm this either way?................

I did this job recently and Bodyart is correct. The FSM states that the flats of the LCA bushing should be parallel to the "flat" of the arm.

Hit Man X · #25 02-15-2007, 04:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

An arbor press has countless application possibilities. The "Official" MB tool has but one.

Elaborate.

With the countless ball joints I have to install, the MB tool seems smart. I can't see myself using a 20 ton press that many times to justify it at this point yet.

bodyart27 · #26 02-15-2007, 07:25 AM

So far I have used the press for the ball joints, lower control arm bushings, the suspension/carrier bearing bushings, and on removing/inserting the guide rod (adjustable end that fits in the carrier bearing).

In the end though, you'll know more than us what needs to get done on your cars, plus the MB tool will take up a lot less room than a big press

You're near me. If you want to try the tool (doesn't fit all MBs), bring the knuckles by and we can have a set knocked out an pressed in within 30 minutes.

tobybul · #27 02-15-2007, 11:14 AM

I have a JTC 1247 separator and am please with the quality of the product. It worked well when I separated the ball joint from the control arm and for separating a tie rod from the knuckle.

http://eng.jtc.com.tw/products/products_search_list.php?Keyword=separator

Rashakor · #28 02-17-2007, 10:22 AM

Tobybul,

I prefer the tool suggested by Bodyart27. It is actually dificult to mess up with the clamp-style one. The JTC is difficult to fit on large knuckles and will pop out if you are not careful.

Mojool · #29 02-17-2007, 12:44 PM

I recently replaced upper control arms, shocks, ball joints, and all their bushings (i even replaced the track rod guide bushings (right under where the coil springs meet the lower control arm). everything was pretty smooth except for a few hard parts.

getting the freaking ball joint OUT is a PIA. i took it up to the shop, and they put it in a vice. then took that big hunk of mandrel/ rod and what had to be at least a 10 lb hammer, and after a few whacks (3) the old ball joint shot out across the floor! after that, the guy took the new ball joint and ever so slightly filed the end of the little ridges down on his bench grinder (so it would go back in with more ease). he then put the whole A-arm into a vice with the ball joint stem pointed upwards. there's a small indentation in the top of the ball joint stem. he took some sort of long pointed device to use as a tap and tapped the ball joint in place (didn't use a press

).

after two separate trips to the shop (2 blocks away

we had the ball joints in. we used dawn liquid detergent to get the lower inner control arm bushings to slide in...worked like a charm.

the upper inner control arm bolt was rusted. the 'sheath' that the bolt slides into was rusted to the bolt, so the bolt wouldn't slide out...too tight a fit to get any type of saw in there so last option was the plasma cutter

!

after readying the fire extinguisher just in case, and some smoky rubber action, that thing came right off. The sheath metal was a lighter density than the bolt, so it went first.

be careful when after you compress the spring and are attempting to undo the shocks from the top of their towers. the thing can shoot down with force and the nuts on the top can turn into projectiles. don't ask me how i know this

not really a hard job looking back...but...definitely needed some macgyverismz..

tobybul · #30 02-17-2007, 06:15 PM

I didnt find removing the bj from the spindle to be too hard. Just a few patient whacks with a good, heavy hammer. It'll ease out eventually. I used the AZ bj press tool to put the new bj inplace. Gotta take off the rubber boot first b4 pressing the new one.

Theres been many threads on this.