The consensus seems to be that
(a) the risk of damaging the connections while loosening/tightening the oil cooler lines is too high, and
(b) the benefit of draining another pint or two (opinions vary) of dirty oil is too low.

My Dad just turned 85 in December. He has serious knee problems, nagging back problems, wears a pacemaker and is diabetic.

He manages to get under and out from under cars all the time. I really believe he would rather do that than pump.

We have had these drain vs. suck battles many times before. I personally think that spending money for one of the gadgets is a big WASTE of money, but the important thing is that for those who don't like to clean their fingernails, these gadgets get the job done. The important thing is that the manicured fingernail crowd is getting their oil changed too.

I drain mine.

I can certainly understand folks with joint problems, etc, really enjoying not having to get down under it. But for now, since I don't have those to worry about (famous last words, of course) - I think it's so much simpler to just lie down on the floor of the garage, throw the pan under there, pull one bolt, and let it all drain out - no jacking or anything, it really is easier than any of the other cars we've got.

Mine's already missing its belly panels, so no problem there...

I just don't want to buy a gadget when I can do it practically just as well by removing a bolt, and save that expense, and not have to deal with a dripping dipstick sucker thing that will probably drip all over the car and everything else when I pull it out, etc...

How do you establish that the soot content is 2% and not, for instance, 1% or 1.5%?
Just curious...

Rino

Me? I'm a sucker for a good gadget, then I have to find a way to use (justify) it.

Clean Freak uses Top Sider
 

I guess I like the Top Sider / suction method becuase I don't have to get as dirty (just put on some latex gloves vs. grubby clothes to get under the car) and the overall clean up is less (all the mess is inside the topsider, vs wiping down the oil collector pan thingy, oil splashing when it first starts to drain).

My wife's acura and my nissan HAVE to use gravity (something inside both blocks the tube from getting all the way to the botom of the pan). I absolutely prefer oil changes on my MB vs those cars (oil filter is on top on the nissan - not too bad; on the acura is on bottom backside of the motor - PITA).

I have a "oil sucker" or the more formal term, oil extractor or topsider.

I use the extractor about 50% of the time. It is convenient and does the job. But it is worth your time to get under your car and have a look at everything every once in a while. Plus you can't use the extractor with a hot engine. It will melt the plastic.

If getting one makes you change your oil regularly and on time vs. putting it off. Then get one. But for the $80, or so, you can get ramps, jacks etc. That will be necessary for future jobs under the car.

Dave

This is a problem with non MBs. I can't use my Topsider on a 99 Camry or 97 Caravan, for example. With the 603 the far end of dipstick hose sits so close to the bottom of the sump that the Topsider's suction hose can't possibly curl upwards. When using the Topsider through the transmission dipstick you can feel the suction hose curling upwards as you force in more hose.

As I understand, the dealer doesn't send a suction hose down the dipstick tube. The dealer extractor attaches to the dipstick tube itself.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

The only thing that delays my oil changes is forgetting that I'm out of oil filters
:~(

Oh brother :dizzy2:

I had my extractor pulling oil this weekend while I was re-packing my wheel bearings....by hand.

How 'bout them apples? :D

There's companies that will analyze the oil for you. They'll tell you the metal content, fuel content, coolant content, soot content, etc.. that's in the oil. It's a good way to check your engine's health, and seek out potential problems such as bad headgaskets and increased wear earlier rather than later.

does anybody flush the dirty oil out with fresh clean oil? on a VERY dirty unknown motor, I drain all the oil, pour fresh oil down the filter can and the valve cover, and wait until THAT has drained out, before I put the plug back in and fill it up. I wish there was a safe way to empty/flush the cooler, but oh well.
after I fill the unknown mileage motor with fresh oil, I run it for a week, then drain that and fill with good oil. It's the best I can do.
John
oh, and I use brake cleaner on the filter can and flush out the filter cap tube too. yuckky!

It seems a smart thing to do... Can you suggest a couple of such companies that offer good value (quality at reasonable cost)?

Rino

Grandpa used to drain the oil, put in X number of quarts of kerosene, run the car for 5 minutes, drain the dirtry kerosene, change the filter, and then fill with new oil.

I Just add a quart of kerosene, run for five minutes, drain the old oil & kerosene, change the filter, and then fill with new oil.

I've done that every 10,000 miles on my gassers. I have not done it on the benz.

ATF may work better.

-Jim

I draing mine not only for the sake of draining it, but while I am down there is is a good time to look over everything to see if there is any items that need addressed.