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  #16  
Old 02-20-2007, 07:28 PM
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Where does one obtain the metal inserts?
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  #17  
Old 02-20-2007, 07:28 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240Joe View Post
If you use a radiator with a plastic neck, make sure you use one of the metal inserts in the neck.

240Joe
If you want to re-enforce a W123 radiator, a 1-inch copper pipe seems to be a good fit. I believe you can also buy an insert "kit."
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  #18  
Old 02-20-2007, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry edwards View Post
Where does one obtain the metal inserts?
I bought a union for 1" copper pipe and machined it down a couple hundredths until it had a slight interference fit, then tapped it in.

A 1" pipe was too small for my radiator neck.
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  #19  
Old 02-20-2007, 09:03 PM
Craig
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
I bought a union for 1" copper pipe and machined it down a couple hundredths until it had a slight interference fit, then tapped it in.

A 1" pipe was too small for my radiator neck.
That's probably a better solution, when I used the 1-inch pipe to "patch" mine it was a loose fit. I was able to glue it in place with about 1/16 inch of JB Weld. Good enough for a patch, but not for a reenforcement. I didn't bother on my new one, hopefully it will last another 20 years anyway.
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  #20  
Old 02-20-2007, 09:18 PM
Craig
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BTW, here is a kit for the radiator neck:

http://**************.com/node/710
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  #21  
Old 02-20-2007, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
I bought a union..........
I'm presuming you bought a coupling. A union is a completely different animal.........
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  #22  
Old 02-20-2007, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I'm presuming you bought a coupling. A union is a completely different animal.........
I am sure that you are right. I just stumbled around in the plumbing section of the hardware store with my dial caliper until I found something that looked like it would work. And it cost about 94% less than the aforementioned kit.
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  #23  
Old 02-20-2007, 11:15 PM
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When I replaced the radiator in the SDL a couple of years ago I gave the upper hose connection on the old radiator a tap with a 1/2 drive. Broke like an eggshell! I bet it would have failed soon.

Moral of the story is, if you drive the car pretty far just replace it before it breaks.
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  #24  
Old 02-20-2007, 11:39 PM
Craig
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Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
Moral of the story is, if you drive the car pretty far just replace it before it breaks.
Sounds like a good idea, my indy thinks these things only have a life expectancy of about 10 years. I was thinking about replacing mine in the spring to improve summer cooling anyway. I was going to look into a replacement radiator with metal tanks, but I ended up getting a new OEM because it was available.
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  #25  
Old 02-20-2007, 11:42 PM
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I go by the 10 year rule if its a car I plan on keeping for awhile. I don't want to deal with problems, and with an old car you need to be proactive with maintaince in order to do this. My old Camry split the plastic radiator at the 10 year mark, my dads F150 just did at the 13 year mark. (but it has a lot less miles on it then the Toyota did) The SDL's failed at the 18 year mark, go Behr!

At 10 years if the radiator is $200ish or less I'm replacing it, if its super expensive I'll keep an eye on it.
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  #26  
Old 02-20-2007, 11:45 PM
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I assumed mine was original, but I don't really know. Oh well, I should be good for another 10 years.

The Behr cost about $320 (plus hoses) and about 2 hours total work.
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  #27  
Old 03-23-2007, 01:46 AM
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Smile Brken Radiator Neck

Some time ago, I picked up a neck-reinforcement kit from "**************.com". I advise those with plastic neck radiators to do the same.
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