Frantz Bypass oil filter install
 

Well, I installed a Frantz Bypass Oil filter on my benz back around the first of the year.......... I finally got some pics of the job so that I can post em here....

For those wondering, the Frantz uses toilet paper as a filter element versus a special filtering element like ForcedInduction uses.........

Here are descriptions of the pictures.....

1. The filter canister itself and an overview of the plumbing involved.

2. The return hose barb in the valve cover.

3. The valve cover installed on the engine with the return line attached.

4. The supply hose and barb as well as the restrictor orfice installed in the side of the filter canister.

My goal with this installation was to keep it as "low profile" as possible, make it look as stock as possible....... Also, this way I don't have to take the supply line off every time I change the oil like ForcedInduction does.... I will be replacing the hose barb at the valve cover with a removable flare fitting since I basically have to cut a little of the hose to get it off the barb each time I remove the valve cover......... Otherwise, I am very pleased with the install.

I have had to add so much oil to this motor due to my chain tensioner leak nightmare that I'm going to run this oil another 2500 miles (5000 total) and change it completely to Mobil 1 since it is now available cheap in my area. Then I'll start taking oil analysis checks at the changes and posting them here.

Cool...the Frantz is a proven product. You did good!

Toilet paper isn't just for wiping! :)

When you drilled the filter cannister, how did you prevent shavings from getting where they should not go? Rags, vacuum cleaner???

The only reason I used the filter lid is to make it easily reversible in the case ever I decide to remove the bypass system.

Yours looks very good. I can't wait to see if yours filters any better than mine. Any particular brand of TP you chose?

As for catching the shavings, I did it with the filter element out and stuffed a pant leg (not the pants I was wearing! :eek: ) Down the inside of the canister. Did my drilling and tapping and then yanked the pants out which carried all but a small amount of the shavings out. I then used shop towels to completely swab the inside of the canister clean and dry.

Lance: As for brand of tiolet paper, I'm using Scott 1000, it's single ply x 1000 sheet...

That appears to be the more or less universal TP of choice.

I surprised no one has asked how your oil looks- does it stay amber at all? For how long? Mine with a GCF did not.

Mine is still black.

You're going to need a kick-arse filter to filter out that soot, which makes it black. They are 0.03 microns in size, about 1.2 millionth of an inch.

With these bypass filter setups, the big rigs put many, many thousands of miles on the oil. The soot is still in there, but as long as it doesn't clump, it doesn't bother anything.

See?

240Joe

yah the oil is black as ever......... But the oil also had 2000 miles when I installed the filter too.......

Still, I expect that it'll always be black as pitch.......

why oil is black
 

I read that the oil turns black quickly becuase the additives change color when they are heated. If the oil didn't have additives it would still be clear.

I'm looking at putting a frantz on my ol' 240D, but I don't like the drilling holes in things part of it all. Is it not possible to do this all in a reversible way? I guess not, duh, otherwise you guys would have done it.

Anyway, just looking for confirmation that TP is the way to go. Thanks for sharing the results.

Simply get "extra" parts to do the mod on and save your originals (or modify the originals, whichever you prefer). That way, it's reversible by simply swapping out the parts. The only non-reversible aspect would be any mounting holes you put in the inner fenders.

Here is a way to install the filter that is reversible- check my posts on this thread.

Oh well, depends on your comfort level I guess.... To me, drilling and tapping the oil canister seems less risky than messing with the oil supply to the IP. BUT, I had NO intention of ever removing my bypass system either so I didn't need reversibility.... That's why I tapped the canister itself instead of the lid as ForcedInduction did...... If the Frantz didn't/doesn't work out, I'll just go to another unit.... But I will have a bypass either way......

You don't have to drill into your canister
 

Ok guys, I was running Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme in my engine before the engine swap into the new body.. I just drained the whole thing for several days on the engine hoist, then refilled with Mobil 1.

Here are my sample results after 4200 miles. (Not changed this time. Just changed Toilet paper roll and added 1 quart oil....)

First & Second Sample: No bypass, Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40

Third Sample: No Bypass, Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme Synthetic 5w40

This Sample: Bypass, Mobil 1 synthetic 5w40

I might add, my oil stayed clearish for almost 700 miles before turning dark with the bypass filter........