You are absolutly right I forgot about that. I was possibly just hung up on the fungus refference.

I'll have to try to get one off a junkyard car. If that doesn't work I can always bring it to the mechanic (gasp) and have him rebuilt it or replace it. I just can't spend a ton on this- the suspension needs work too.

And yes, the drunk idea has crossed my mind!

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Andrew

1989 Volvo 745- 202K

i doubt seriuosly if it is the steering box.

i have never heard of one binding. i cannot imagine how it could.

just mho

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

OK- here's an update for you guys.

I brought the car to the mechanic. He recommended replacing the subframe bushings, the control arms, and the steering box. He said that the play in the steering box was symptomatic of a worn box, and the sticking was that the adjustment bolt was off. He figured that whoever adjusted the steering last did not tighten the lock bolt and the allen screw worked its way out until the thing became sticky, but he was not sure on that one. He did recommend replacing the box regardless of the sticking because of the steering play.

So, which of these jobs can I do? I have tools, just not MB specialized tools.

Can I leave the control arms in and just replace the bushings on each of them, or should I replace the arms?

Should I replace both the top and bottom arms?

He said that the tie rods were just fine. So, will his list fix the wandering, steering play, and wheel sticking?

And BTW, he greased all the suspension points and the car doesn't squeak anymore.

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Andrew

1989 Volvo 745- 202K

ahhhhhhh ....where to begin. the steering box if the locking nut is off the adjuster cannot be expected to work correctly. find a nut for it and adjust it first. if you can't find one nearby i prob have one i can send you.

do that first and then see how it drives. can you see the bushings hanging out of the joints? if not i wouldn't leap to replace them until at least the steering box is adjusted.

there is not places to grease. did he lube with a grease gun needle fitting?

if not then your boots are shot and the ball joints and such won't last long unless you replace the boots. if they are loose then the bj needs to be replacing.

but first get the locking nut and adjust the steering box.

imho.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The rubber is almost nonexistent. There is nearly nothing left of the rubber. What is left is all cracked and brittle. The mechanic just used a thin attachment to grease where the rubber should be- I can see the grease.

I went out to check the nut and the allen screw- the allen screw (when screwed in) does help the steering wheel sticking but the play gets worse and worse as I turn it in. It is about 2" of play now, each half turn in it gets about an inch worse. It seems as though it was way overadjusted to compensate for the steering wheel play.

It would look as though I will need to replace the box. Is this something I can do? How about those control arm bushings and subframe bushings? Are those things I can do myself?

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Andrew

1989 Volvo 745- 202K

Find the various jobs in the archives and try to figure out if you are up to them. Look under steering rebuilding and anything else you can think of.