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  #16  
Old 03-03-2007, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry perkins View Post
yep,been there done the econo route. i would not have a problem using the rebuilts,matter of fact you have a source thats less cost than a/c brake of louisville does for me,so post the source if you can.
on the attempt to loosen the ones on the car just take your time and dont be afraid to use a couple good strong clamps to do the squeeze with,c clamps are good,wide vice grips and let it soak a bit and if there is a split in the rubber boot the penetrating oil could help.
larry perkins
OK, will do... Thanks so much for your advice!

Rino

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  #17  
Old 03-04-2007, 12:22 PM
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Are the bleeder valves actually on each wheel?
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  #18  
Old 03-04-2007, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mikesmitty View Post
Are the bleeder valves actually on each wheel?
Yep, easy to spot too... I changed the brake fluid... finished the process 20 minutes ago... Very easily done... and with no power bleeder either!

Rino
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  #19  
Old 03-04-2007, 01:19 PM
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Larry Perkins:

I did the fluid change this morning, using your method: it worked like a charm on all wheels, so it means no problems with the brake lines. I first emptied both sections of the master cyl reservoir and filled it with new fluid, then did the wheel sequence as you suggested. At first the dripping was slow (gunky stuff came out) on each wheel, then faster as the liquid cleared. It took about 1 hour to do the complete process.

I took out the old pads and was about to do what you suggested... but noticed that the rubber rings from the calipers (the ones that push on the pads) were worn out unevenly on both rear calipers... this causes the pads to push against the rotors at an angle, therefore wearing the pads at an angle... So these calipers either need to be rebuilt or I need to get a different pair...

In your opinion, does it make sense to get my calipers rebuilt locally (by some local professionals) OR should I just dispose of them and go ahead and get a different rebuilt pair? Throwing away the ones I have to get a rebuilt pair seems a big waste to me: why not having mine rebuilt? And it should save me some money too... What do you think of it?

Thanks,
Rino
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  #20  
Old 03-06-2007, 06:31 PM
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Bleeder Valves

Are the bleener valves located near the brake lines of each tire or by the master resevior?
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  #21  
Old 03-06-2007, 06:32 PM
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Diregard my repeat message. For some reason my screen computer would not refresh to show the whole thread. Thanks for all the insight.
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  #22  
Old 03-12-2007, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by larry perkins View Post
i will tell u how i bleed my brakes,115,123,124,126 cars,fill the master cyl,go to the farthest wheel,open the bleeder valve,just let the fluid run till you get the nice color of the new fluid.turn off bleeder valve,move to next closest wheel to the master cylinder,repeat process and move on.just keep an eye on the fluid level and not let it get low in the master cylinder.
process never fails to work if you got good brake parts.
larry perkins
Larry, I hope you get to read this one... I've asked the question elsewhere and not gotten the answers I was hoping for, and I'd like to know how you feel about this matter. The thing is, in my 240D both the brakes and the clutch share the same fluid reservoir... so, basically, the same old fluid that, being water-thirsty and prone to absorb it, is likely to damage the brake lines and components if not renewed periodically, is also bound to damage the clutch lines and components in that same way... Therefore, it follows that it is an excellent idea to flush the clutch whenever flushing the brakes... I asked this somewhere else in this forum and someone answered that I better stay away from the clutch, as a not-very-experienced beginner. I don't think this guy had any experience with your method either...
What I've been wondering is, in your experience, does the method you have outlined above for brake flushing work also for clutch flushing? I mean, after bleeding RR, RL, FR and FL, could one also let the old fluid out the clutch bleeder valve in the same way and be done with it?

Thanks,
Rino
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  #23  
Old 03-13-2007, 07:55 AM
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You definitely need to flush the clutch as well as the brakes, but the bleeding process for the clutch can be tricky. I think that's why you were warned.

I would flush the clutch with the two man method so as not to take any chances.

And yes, it is DEFINITELY as important to flush the clutch fluid as it is to flush the brake fluid.
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  #24  
Old 03-13-2007, 08:20 AM
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larry, I agree, it is important to flush the clutch fluid, but not just as important. you have the corrosion problems in the components just like the brakes, but you don't have to worry about heat buildup flashing the water. there is no friction contact in the clutch slave. so important, yes. JUST as important... I don't think so.
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  #25  
Old 03-13-2007, 08:42 AM
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Yes it IS as important. Do you think that the engine does not build up heat? Additionally clutch hydraulic problems are sometimes more of a PITA than brake hydraulic problems.
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  #26  
Old 03-13-2007, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry perkins View Post
i will tell u how i bleed my brakes,115,123,124,126 cars,fill the master cyl,go to the farthest wheel,open the bleeder valve,just let the fluid run till you get the nice color of the new fluid.turn off bleeder valve,move to next closest wheel to the master cylinder,repeat process and move on.just keep an eye on the fluid level and not let it get low in the master cylinder.
process never fails to work if you got good brake parts.
larry perkins
So let me get this straight, all you do is just open the bleeder valve and let the fluid run itself out? You don't have to press the pedal or anything? Just attach a hose to the bleeder valve and watch the fluid coming out? If so I think I'll be doing that this weekend if its that easy.
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  #27  
Old 03-13-2007, 12:08 PM
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Brake fluid should be flushed no less often than every two years. I take my Porsche to the track with a local club, and they are even more strict - they won't allow you onto the track if your brake fluid is even more than 3 months old! As has been said, the hygroscopic properties of DOT3 and DOT4 are a real problem, particularly in humid areas. This water will rust and corrode the brake system from the inside out, and severely impair your braking performance in hard driving conditions. If your car is equipped with ABS, just think of what that water is doing to the inside of the $$$$ ABS pump.

Handy tip: Most of the water that's absorbed is in the fluid in the resevoir. So the resevoir contains fluid that is more contaminated that what's in the lengths of lines. Instead of pushing this contaminated fluid through the system, or simply diluting it with new fluid, use a turkey baster or a vacuum bleeder and suck all of the old fluid out of the resevoir. Then fill the resevoir with new fluid and bleed the system as usual.

I alternate between ATE Super Blue / ATE Gold. It is a 'super dot 4' fluid and has dry and wet boiling points that are well above the DOT4 published standard. Costs about $10/liter. The Super Blue and the Gold are the exact same fluid except for the color. Alternating the colors on each flush allows you to easily see when the new fluid has flowed all the way through the system.

At $10 total cost for a DIY fluid flush, can you afford not to?
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Last edited by lupin..the..3rd; 03-13-2007 at 12:18 PM.
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  #28  
Old 03-13-2007, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by sailor15015 View Post
So let me get this straight, all you do is just open the bleeder valve and let the fluid run itself out? You don't have to press the pedal or anything? Just attach a hose to the bleeder valve and watch the fluid coming out? If so I think I'll be doing that this weekend if its that easy.
Yep, I did it myself slightly over a week ago on my '79 240D: it worked like a charm!
You don't have to press the pedal, just do the bleeder valves in that order, and make sure you keep an eye all along on the brake fluid reservoir (be careful, it has two sections and both need to be kept filled) so as to make sure the level doesn't go too much down. It worked great on my car (took about an hour to do all wheels), however, your mileage may vary...
I just wish the same could be said for the clutch line... Where are you, Larry Perkins?

Rino
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  #29  
Old 03-13-2007, 05:43 PM
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rino

you are getting good advise,dont be afraid of failing,if when you open the slave cyl bleed screw and no fluid flows then first try pulling back the clutch pedal to its max. i have seen some that require adjustment at the clutch rod to clutch cylinder to allow a free flow,and if i get lazy on one that wont free flush i might apply pressure at the slave cly and back flush it till i have time to do the adjusting.
if you notice on most master cylinders when the pedal is first applied there will be a little bubble come to the top,its very apparent on a cylinder without a reservoir,the cup moves to cover the inlet hole and then builds pressure,at rest that hole is open so any fluid up above will free flow to keep system full and to let any trapped air out.so if on your clutch mastercylinder the cup is closing the fill hole you wont get a free flow,i believe mercedes writes to use pressure on the slave cyl and that will push the cup back and expose the fill hole to allow fluid back to the brake reservoir.
hope this helps
larry perkins
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  #30  
Old 03-13-2007, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry perkins View Post
you are getting good advise,dont be afraid of failing,if when you open the slave cyl bleed screw and no fluid flows then first try pulling back the clutch pedal to its max. i have seen some that require adjustment at the clutch rod to clutch cylinder to allow a free flow,and if i get lazy on one that wont free flush i might apply pressure at the slave cly and back flush it till i have time to do the adjusting.

if you notice on most master cylinders when the pedal is first applied there will be a little bubble come to the top,its very apparent on a cylinder without a reservoir,the cup moves to cover the inlet hole and then builds pressure,at rest that hole is open so any fluid up above will free flow to keep system full and to let any trapped air out.so if on your clutch mastercylinder the cup is closing the fill hole you wont get a free flow,i believe mercedes writes to use pressure on the slave cyl and that will push the cup back and expose the fill hole to allow fluid back to the brake reservoir.
hope this helps
larry perkins
Thanks, Larry. The first part of your post is much clearer to me than the latter...
So basically you're saying that it can be done the same way as with the brake lines... When you say, "if i get lazy on one that wont free flush i might apply pressure at the slave cly and back flush it till i have time to do the adjusting," how do you apply pressure at the slave cyl, by pushing on the clutch pedal?? So when you apply this pressure at the slave cyl the cup is pushed back, the fill hole exposed to allow fluid back into the reservoir and, presumably, it will flow again through the clutch bleeder valve and achieve the flush, right? But if the old fluid flows back into the reservoir, doesn't that contaminate the new fluid you have just put in?
So, should the clutch bleed valve be done first, at the very beginning before the brake bleeders, so as to avoid this type of contamination of the new fluid?
I appreciate very much your feedback, as you seem to be the only person here with extensive experience with this type of bleeding. It's worked wonderfully with my brakes... I'd like to understand the points I just pointed to a little better, so as to be able to do the clutch fluid replacement properly...
BTW, you have done this clutch fluid flush first hand on your cars, right?

Thanks,
Rino

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