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  #16  
Old 03-13-2007, 09:38 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 71
Did it.

I finished the valve adjustment today. I ended up using a combination of the electric jump method (with only a wire between the first and third screws of the relay on passenger fender...) and the power steering pump nut for fine-tuning adjustments.

I realized that my concerns about the electric method being inaccurate were unfounded, as half the cam lobe is at its lowest spot, meaning you don't have to have the cam lobe at exactly 180 degrees to the connection with the rocker, just close to that.

I still can't see how using the crankshaft bolt would be anything but inconvenient, having to bend over everytime and turn the socket wrench--can you even see the camshaft while you're turning the crankshaft from under the car? But, I'm sure I don't understand it totally.

At any rate, it's done. I didn't notice a huge improvement in performance, even though all the valves were tight...

Thanks everybody for the help!

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  #17  
Old 03-13-2007, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burntcloth View Post
can you even see the camshaft while you're turning the crankshaft from under the car?
I never thought about that. I just watch the camshaft, and when I say "Stop", my wife quits turning the crank!!!
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  #18  
Old 03-13-2007, 11:56 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burntcloth View Post
I finished the valve adjustment today. I ended up using a combination of the electric jump method (with only a wire between the first and third screws of the relay on passenger fender...) I didn't notice a huge improvement in performance, even though all the valves were tight...

Thanks everybody for the help!
After doing a valve adjustment, I too did not notice ANY difference. The juction box jump deal comes in handy when installing new belts too, as I will get them almost in the groove, bump engine over just a bit, pops on.

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