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  #1  
Old 03-04-2007, 09:56 PM
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How to turn engine for valve adjust?

So, I'm trying my first valve adjustment on a 1982 300TD, and have had problems turning the engine manually.

I would like to do this via the crankshaft bolt, but getting in there is tough! I've got a 27mm socket, a variety of different extensions, fishing it around the fan shroud, between the fan blades, but I don't feel a nut to seat onto...is the fact that my 27mm socket not a deep-well the problem? This method seems disadvantageous as you are adjusting on top of the engine and turning underneath the car--back & forth...

I also tried turning with the power steering nut, but it was very tough going, and after a few short moves finally gave up in fear of damaging the bearings on the pump. Note: I didn't have the valve cover off when trying this. Could that be a problem?

The electric method of moving the engine seems inexact to me.

Anyone with experience in this regard? Thanks!


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  #2  
Old 03-04-2007, 09:57 PM
ForcedInduction
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A deep 27mm socket and 1/2" ratchet will fit on the crank bolt perfectly.
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  #3  
Old 03-04-2007, 10:00 PM
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no extensions needed.. just the 1/2" ratched and some patience...
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  #4  
Old 03-04-2007, 10:00 PM
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A standard-depth socket with a short (1.5") extension bar works for me. It takes a little effort to get the socket in and onto the crankshaft bolt. But it works.
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  #5  
Old 03-04-2007, 10:20 PM
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Let's see if I've got this right:
The Crankshaft bolt sits at the back of that giant pulley at the bottom of the engine with the four belts or so coming off of it, almost flush with the black plastic fan shroud?

Since there's hardly room to get even the width of the socket wrench in between the fan shroud and the edge of the pulley, the distance from the wrench to the nut has to be exact, or it won't work, right?
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2007, 10:24 PM
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I've always used a crescent wrench on the power steering bolt. Was your car in gear?
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  #7  
Old 03-04-2007, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burntcloth View Post
Let's see if I've got this right:
The Crankshaft bolt sits at the back of that giant pulley at the bottom of the engine with the four belts or so coming off of it, almost flush with the black plastic fan shroud?

Since there's hardly room to get even the width of the socket wrench in between the fan shroud and the edge of the pulley, the distance from the wrench to the nut has to be exact, or it won't work, right?
Shove it between the shroud and crank... it will go in.. I've done it 3 times in the past year.. Turn it then fumble til it gets on the bolt...

We used the power steering bolt on surf's car but I'm weary of it on my car.. Last time I tried it the belt didnt turn.. I need to tighten it.
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Old 03-04-2007, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burntcloth View Post
Since there's hardly room to get even the width of the socket wrench in between the fan shroud and the edge of the pulley, the distance from the wrench to the nut has to be exact, or it won't work, right?
You can unclip the fan shroud and move it out of the way.
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  #9  
Old 03-04-2007, 11:24 PM
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I always remove the fan and fan shroud to gain access. It adds about 10-15 minutes to the job but is worth it.

If you do remove the fan, don't forget to put one of the fan bolts back in afterward to keep the water pump pulley in alignment as you turn the engine...
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  #10  
Old 03-04-2007, 11:28 PM
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if you are going to remove things why not the GP. wouldn't that let you turn the engine alot easier?
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  #11  
Old 03-04-2007, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burntcloth View Post

Since there's hardly room to get even the width of the socket wrench in between the fan shroud and the edge of the pulley, the distance from the wrench to the nut has to be exact, or it won't work, right?
Correct.

But, the length of a 27mm deep socket mounted on a 1/2" ratchet wrench will be the perfect distance. You'll need to shove the socket up between the shroud and the pulley and then rotate the socket into position to snag the 27mm bolt. Once you do it the first time, it's not difficult.
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  #12  
Old 03-05-2007, 12:00 AM
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Hi. Rig up a few feet of 10 Ga. wire and a heavy duty push button switch. Fasten a good alagator clip to the wire ends and clip in to the battery hot side and the starter relay. As the cam turns half speed to the engine it turns quite slow on the starter and a couple of cliks will put the cam lobe in the correct position. This makes the valve setting job a lot easer. Also the engine will turn the correct direction, always a good thing.
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  #13  
Old 03-05-2007, 02:54 AM
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Yeah, I'd get a remote starter. Best $12 I've spent in doing valve lash.
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  #14  
Old 03-05-2007, 09:38 AM
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I've always used the key to turn the engine. Of course I use it in the ignition not on the crank. How's that remote start fit on the 27 inch socket?
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  #15  
Old 03-05-2007, 06:00 PM
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Go with previous post. Or do as The Gears suggestes. Yet use the junction box located on the passenger inner fender. #1 and #3 connect those two and, viola, the starter turns. I have two of the "bump" starter trigger things. One of them for the SD needs to have a small alligator clip vs the wide clip that came on the end of one of the two.

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