Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-06-2007, 09:18 AM
juanesoto's Avatar
Diesel freak!
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Jose, Costa Rica
Posts: 300
Changing oil in a 617....

Hello guys! What's up? I've been wondering how to get the engine oil out of the the cooler. I've been using mineral oil in my engine and now I would like to switch to synthetic oil. AFAIK you shouldn't mix them, so I my best guess is that I have to remove all the oil that is in the engine, including the one in the cooler.

Am I right? Which would be the best way of doing this with out making a hell of a mess?

Thanks!
__________________
1982 W123 300D NA Euro, 300K Miles, 4-speed manual, 3.46 rear diff, early W126 front brakes, Penta rims with 205/60R15 FH900's, custom fitted (by me) audio system, more to come into the money pit... Soon to be installed: Bilstein HD, R107 front discs and 4-piston calipers, HD Suspension springs, wagon front swaybar.

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-06-2007, 09:21 AM
LarryBible
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
If I were you, I would not worry about the oil in the cooler. It is common to run into all sorts of problems trying to get it out. Just drain the oil while hot and overnight to get as much out as possible, fill with your latest concoction and enjoy.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-06-2007, 09:31 AM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,129
for a complete oil changout, it's best to remove the valve cover, and wash down the springs and rocker with gasoline. kerosene will do in a pinch. pull the filter lid, and soak it in carb cleaner. wash out the filter can with gas also. pull the entire oil pan, and wash it out. soak the oil cooler line connectors in pb blaster or a similar thread lubricant over night, then again the next day. pull both ends of the lines and wash out the cooler lines, and the cooler itself. now inside the block there will be several oil passages with dino oil in them, so you will have to get some oil and flush out the passages with several quarts of synthetic through the oil pressure tap. completely soak the valve train in fresh synthetic then fill the cooler lines with fresh synthetic. reassemble all parts, replace the gaskets on the parts you took apart.



it may be necessary to replace the motor after this due to leaks and dry startups, but hey... the oil is all synthetic now.

oh, I'm kidding by the way.


drain filter, drain pan, fill with fresh cheapo synthetic, drive 100 miles, drain and fill with your preferred synthetic and go.
John
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-06-2007, 09:39 AM
Alastair's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: South Wales U.K.
Posts: 1,064
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
f


drain filter, drain pan, fill with fresh cheapo synthetic, drive 100 miles, drain and fill with your preferred synthetic and go.
John

The very best advice in the world as I see it!--Flushes all the crud out...:fork_off:

I do have reservations about using a 'Fully-Synthetic' in these old design Diesels though...

I prefer a Good Semi-Synthetic, of 10-50 rating for Turbo-Diesels in my 617. Some of the Fully-Synthetics are a little on the 'thin' side for my liking...

But like most things in life, its a 'personal choice' thing....
__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-06-2007, 12:52 PM
juanesoto's Avatar
Diesel freak!
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Jose, Costa Rica
Posts: 300
Thanks for your replies guys.

I want to start using Quaker State Full-Syntec for diesel trucks and suv's, in 15W40. A friend of mine changed to this oil in his 617 and got a compression increase of 10-15 psi per cylinder.

Switching to thisoil was kind of easy for him, because he was raplacing his cooler and hoses, aswell as the pan gasket and some engine seals.

He also noticed a reduction in oil consumption and engine blow by. Usually he had to pour a quarter in the engine between oil changes (3000 miles interval) and now there no significant oil consumption, maybe 1/4 of a quarter.

Could all this be true? I can't swear over this, this is something I didn't verified myself. He was using Pennzoil Longlife 15W40

Thanks!
__________________
1982 W123 300D NA Euro, 300K Miles, 4-speed manual, 3.46 rear diff, early W126 front brakes, Penta rims with 205/60R15 FH900's, custom fitted (by me) audio system, more to come into the money pit... Soon to be installed: Bilstein HD, R107 front discs and 4-piston calipers, HD Suspension springs, wagon front swaybar.

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-06-2007, 01:21 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,263
It used to be true that synthetic oils would find all the leaks that are in your engine, and some that weren't.

Thankfully, those days seem to be behind us.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-06-2007, 03:59 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
The only drawback is that soot accumulation in the older engines is fast enough you may not get full life out of the oil. It will reduce consumption as it's much higher viscosity hot, so won't pump into the combustion chamber so much (and that's why the compression may go up a bit.

Do not pour gasoline or kerosene or any other solvent into the engine, it's neither necessary nor particularly smart -- they are NOT engine lubricants.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-06-2007, 08:27 PM
henrydupont
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
isn't synthetic more for high revving engines? I always heard that it doesn't make sense putting synthetic in a diesel. In a BMW M3 maybe...
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-06-2007, 08:39 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,129
synthetic is for engines that get the oil hot. synthetic does not break down like dino oils do. also synthetic holds it's viscosity more true than dino oil does. dino tends to shear the viscosomers or whatever they call the long links that effect multiviscosity.
john
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-06-2007, 08:44 PM
Craig
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Oh good, another oil tread.

Synthetics also allow a wider range of viscosity (i.e., 5W40) that is not available in conventional oil. BTW, I would recommend 5W40 instead of 15W40 for year around use if you do go to a synthetic.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-06-2007, 09:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Houston, TX (Copperfield area)
Posts: 452
And they tend to pump better at low temps....but they tend to suspend additives less well...
__________________
2009 VW TDI Jetta Sportwagon 172k miles (rear-ended harder than Elton John on 8/4/13. Total loss)

1991 Volvo 240 142k miles (T-boned by a stop sign runner. Total loss)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-07-2007, 07:07 AM
LarryBible
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
for a complete oil changout, it's best to remove the valve cover, and wash down the springs and rocker with gasoline. kerosene will do in a pinch. pull the filter lid, and soak it in carb cleaner. wash out the filter can with gas also. pull the entire oil pan, and wash it out. soak the oil cooler line connectors in pb blaster or a similar thread lubricant over night, then again the next day. pull both ends of the lines and wash out the cooler lines, and the cooler itself. now inside the block there will be several oil passages with dino oil in them, so you will have to get some oil and flush out the passages with several quarts of synthetic through the oil pressure tap. completely soak the valve train in fresh synthetic then fill the cooler lines with fresh synthetic. reassemble all parts, replace the gaskets on the parts you took apart.



it may be necessary to replace the motor after this due to leaks and dry startups, but hey... the oil is all synthetic now.

oh, I'm kidding by the way.


drain filter, drain pan, fill with fresh cheapo synthetic, drive 100 miles, drain and fill with your preferred synthetic and go.
John

And someone calls ME an oil change extremist!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page