PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/)
-   Diesel Discussion (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/)
-   -   man this is getting frustrating! (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/181618-man-getting-frustrating.html)

bellyboy 03-07-2007 06:28 PM

man this is getting better!
 
been d%@$ing around with these windows for days now.

1. the driverside rear window works intermittently, front pass. works all the time- rules out fuse
2. jumped the motor to the battery it works
3. went to pick up the regulator arm and it breaks in my hand- fixed that
4 hooked motor up before the switch- no go
5 seems to be intermittent power just at this window

I am new at this.

any shared experience would be appreciated.

i think i have a bad wire. Is there an efficient way to locate a short without pulling all of the carpet up and following the wire? Once the wire enters the cabin it goes to the front fuse box in the inside of the car right?

God grant me the serenity....

benzforlife 03-07-2007 06:32 PM

you probably have aloose connection somewhere, if it comes down to it, just run new wire!

Phil 03-07-2007 06:47 PM

Every problem that I have had with anything electrical in the drivers door has been due to a wire breaking at the hinge point between the door and the frame. I found that if you take the panel off the door and find what ever wire you need and cut it inside the door then solder on new wire at both ends of the cut then remove the side kick panel in the foot area you can then pull the wire through and cut out the bad section and resolder that end of the new wire. I have fixed my seat, window and door locks by doing this.
The drivers door of course gets opened far more that any other so the wires break there long before thay do to any other door. My drivers door window started doing what yours is doing and thats how I got onto this problem and repair.

bellyboy 03-07-2007 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil (Post 1443628)
I found that if you take the panel off the door and find what ever wire you need and cut it inside the door then solder on new wire at both ends of the cut then remove the side kick panel in the foot area you can then pull the wire through and cut out the bad section and resolder that end of the new wire.

thanks.

i have been reading some of your previous posts with regards to door window issues. i was unable to find one that fit my issue. i will give it a try.

you as well as so many others that share their time here are valued and appreciated.

Astroman 03-07-2007 10:14 PM

Also clean all the terminal, both male and female at the switches. Then take the switches themselves apart and clean them up inside. This has solved many a mysterious electrical problem for me..

Surf-n-Turf 03-07-2007 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bellyboy (Post 1443615)
been d%@$ing around with these windows for days now.

1. the driverside rear window works intermittently, front pass. works all the time- rules out fuse
2. jumped the motor to the battery it works
3. went to pick up the regulator arm and it breaks in my hand- fixed that
4 hooked motor up before the switch- no go
5 seems to be intermittent power just at this window

I am new at this.

any shared experience would be appreciated.

i think i have a bad wire. Is there an efficient way to locate a short without pulling all of the carpet up and following the wire? Once the wire enters the cabin it goes to the front fuse box in the inside of the car right?

God grant me the serenity....

I'm slightly confused...#4 hooked up motor before the switch.
Are you talking about the switch on the door, or on the console?

toomany MBZ 03-07-2007 11:01 PM

I understand there is only one window switch, on the console. Many problems are connected to "dirty" switch connections. Try cleaning them. Or replacing switch. Hope this helps.

bellyboy 03-08-2007 12:02 AM

i would think that just before the switch on the door there should be "live elect. current" this is where i spliced into to see if it was live by hooking the motor up to this area, after cleaning the contacts. it had worked by doing this in previous tests-intermittently.

i dont think it is the switch i have consistently tried both switches (console/door) and they either both work or neither. unless it is possible if one doesnt work the other doesnt as well? i would hope this is not the case in its design

disclaimer- newbies beware: this is unchartered territory for me

tangofox007 03-08-2007 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ (Post 1443875)
I understand there is only one window switch, on the console.

That woud be a misunderstanding.

bellyboy 03-08-2007 10:23 AM

bad ground
 
is it ok to just splice in a wire to the existing ground wire and ground it to a screw?- i hope so.

the power window seems to be on all the time, does this suggest new window button or can it be cleaned out, or something else?

Magoo 03-08-2007 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bellyboy (Post 1443946)
i would think that just before the switch on the door there should be "live elect. current" this is where i spliced into to see if it was live by hooking the motor up to this area, after cleaning the contacts. it had worked by doing this in previous tests-intermittently.

i dont think it is the switch i have consistently tried both switches (console/door) and they either both work or neither. unless it is possible if one doesnt work the other doesnt as well? i would hope this is not the case in its design
disclaimer- newbies beware: this is unchartered territory for me

Assuming the 126 window circuit is the same as the 123, check the drivers window switch/connections, as it is the master and has the lockout button. Good luck

rrgrassi 03-08-2007 11:02 AM

My car has the same type issue, but on the rear driverside door. The switch at the console does not feed power to the window motor, but the switch on the door operates the motor just fine. Both rear windows need the regulators looked at as they shutter going up or down insread of operating smoothly like the front windows.

tangofox007 03-08-2007 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bellyboy (Post 1444264)
the power window seems to be on all the time, does this suggest new window button or can it be cleaned out, or something else?

With the switch in "neutral" power is provided to both terminals of the window motor. When the switch is actuated, the power to one side of the motor is interrupted and that circuit is grounded.

tangofox007 03-08-2007 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi (Post 1444310)
My car has the same type issue, but on the rear driverside door. The switch at the console does not feed power to the window motor, but the switch on the door operates the motor just fine.

Power to the rear door switch is provided through the console switch. There is no way for the door switch to work if there is no power at the console switch.

rrgrassi 03-08-2007 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007 (Post 1444805)
Power to the rear door switch is provided through the console switch. There is no way for the door switch to work if there is no power at the console switch.

Well, I cannot lower or raise the left rear window from the console, but I can from the door switch. The window lock on the console does work.

bellyboy 03-08-2007 06:36 PM

when i refered to power i meant that the motor was continuosly (sp?) moving after splicing into the ground and grounded it to the screw on the door, the motor wouldnt shut of unless i disconnected the wires.

i am also having intermittent trouble with my fan blowing, ac not working, tach i think that is it.

we will get it

cleaned the bango bolt and adjusted the alda - it is a different car

rrgrassi 03-08-2007 06:49 PM

Looks like what Tango said about power to both leads on the motor is correct. I guess switch position determines which side gets grounded.

Remember, the brown wire is ground.

derherr65 03-08-2007 07:00 PM

I had off and on problems with the windows. Cleaned the contact and replaced two switches and now they work fine. You will also find the fuses, in the fuse panel, need to be jiggled occasionally. This my be your A/C problem.

tangofox007 03-08-2007 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi (Post 1444830)
Remember, the brown wire is ground.

It's not that simple. Both of the wires connected to the window motor are "dual purpose." Whether they are positive or negative (or both positive) depends on the switch position. The Brown wires ground the switches, not the motor directly.

bellyboy 03-08-2007 09:30 PM

tango i appreciate you being on top of this with me.

hmmm not making this easy. i assumed that the black was ground green pos. when i screwed the black to the door and the motor worked continuously i thought it was the switch.

i am confused and need a break i have been dealing with this for a week. iam tempted to button it up and move on. i need a break in the case soon.

tangofox007 03-08-2007 10:28 PM

You probably have a broken wire between the door switch and the console switch. I would check for continuity between the door switch connector and the console switch connector (for each wire.)

The wires tend to break where they flex at the door/frame interface. The wire bundle is easily accessible under the doorpost trim. You can cut the offending wire(s) there and splice in a replacement from that point to the door switch.

bellyboy 03-08-2007 11:31 PM

earlier i checked at that area didnt seem to be any breaks. looks like i will have to go further- meaning pull up the rug- i guess and follow it.

i am taking a day off from it tomorrow


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:04 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website