Ok asking for some help in doing a basic tuneup. the buy and replace kind of stuff on a 1976 300D (w115) I5

Belts - Fuel Filters - Air Filters all the stuff I should replace to keep it running well.

First what do I need?
Second when I goto the parts store what do I ask for?
Third is anything NOT available locally ie have to order it ?
Fourth basic instructions on HOW to do these things.

I want to give back so when I am done I am going to consolidate all this information and make a guide or instructable complete with images and Videos etc.. So when someone else asks to do this it will all be in one location step by step making life easier for everyone.

I will make all this freely available on my site as well as a ZIP download so others can keep store host etc.. the content anyway they wish.

I do not like being a leech and its fun for me to make this kind of stuff.

As I learn to do more to my car I will make more instructables to cover these things. with your guys help it will be complete easy and accurate.

ALSO where do I get the funky fuses that the car uses ? I love how they are exposed and EASY to determine if they are good or blown :-) but I have never seen anything like them! they are either ceramic or plastic with metal "caps" and a strand of metal in a trough this strand is the fusible portion. Very cool. IS there a place where I can buy a bulk of them like an assortment affordably so I have them for the future. under my hood on the drivers side up by the firewall there is a large "box" with 2 finger screws inside is an array of 12 fuses and a paper diagram with what these fuses are for (thankfully completely intact). JUST in front of this toward the front of the car about 5 inches is a set of wires going to 2 smaller boxes the front one contains 2 more fuses one of which is red and blown (any idea what this is for?) I prefer not to replace a fuse till I know what it is for, just in case there is a good reason it blew :-)


Thanks!
Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb1.asp?TP=1&F=115114&VIN=
Hi,
oil filters-one big by-pass and one plastic mesh full flow filter(do not run the engine without any of these)
By-pass -Mann pf 925x,Knecht OX 1D
[IMG]http://www.***************/secure/PartImages/0001800209.jpg[/IMG]
Full flow-Knecht Ox 63, Mann o5001

Fuel filter -Knecht KX 43,Mann BFU 707,Hengst D12 E5KFR

You change the by-pass oil filter every OCI and clean and reinstall the full flow plastic mesh(good to have a spare one).
Use a good heavy-duty diesel engine oil...do the valve adjustment ...
have a look at this:
Maintain schedule???? Help???
http://www.mann-hummel.com/mf_prodkata_all/index.html?iKeys=21.1.0.1.1
http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedes_diesel_maintenance_tips.htm

I buy only the ceramic ones. Had problems with the plastic ones melting when they blow.

__________________
Bob
'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic

The fuses are called GBC. They are made by Buss. Fuse and come in the typical slide out metal/plastic yellow container.

For a really good tune up manual go to **************.com. It is for Diesels from 1965 to 1985. Very well written.

Dealer, local independent shop that does Mercedes, or FastLane, BuyMBParts, other on-line places. Most places won't have air filters, but some McParts places do carry Wix filters and will have that one -- it also fits some Ford tractors, I think.

Changing the oil filter is a pure pain -- it's a canister type and space is very limited under there. There is a fairly strong spring in the bottom that must be compressed to get it in place, and if you don't get it started correctly, you will crimp the edge of the filter housing. Almost as bad is the quart of dirty, hot oil that will run down your arm as the twirl the screw to get the blasted thing off!

Going back in, push the canster up into the adapter and then tighten the screw enough to keep the lip in the hole before you get the wrench out.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

my 2c

I tried to use the Msource manual written by Kent to fix up my 85 300D sunroof.

My sunroof has been out of commission since. It was not clear & when I got stuck & called & emailed them with questions Kent refused to answer any questions & his obnoxious daughter was a rude total waste of time.

I wish I never tried to follow his Sunroof Repair Guide....

& FWIW It supports this web site to buy parts from Phil & Fastlane. His prices are good & he can find the parts you need even if they are not listed....




...

__________________
'87 924S
'81 280SEL

Sold ->

81 300SD -
93 300E w/ 3.2
85 300D-
79 300SD
82 300CD
83 300CD - CA
87 190E 5 spd
87 Porsche 924S

"..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..."

Does my car have an oil bath air filter ? is that what is inside that giant canister on the left side behind the passenger headlight fixture? (I assume that is the airfilter sure looks like it should be but I never saw one that shape before) If it does not have an oil bath filter can I install one ? I know how good they are and like the idea of having one in there.

ALSO the very large hose going FROM that canister to the engine is cracked. How do I acquire a replacement ? (the auto shop said it is not available, that I have to go junkyard or used shopping for something like that)

I was able to order the fuel filters $13 and $10 for the 2 of them. they will be delivered in a few days. I am going to wait until I get the diesel purge kit to actually replace them.

I was thinking about permanently installing a subtank for doing stuff like this. a valve of some sort on the supply and return lines just flip the valve and run off the subtank flip it again to go back to the normal fuel tank. Is that a good idea ? do I need special valves that won't be affected by diesel fuel etc.. ? there is certainly plenty of room inside to install it. Might also prevent the need for repriming as I think I read I will have to do that after doing this.

The link to dieselgiant with all the info is great I am just starting to dive into all of that good stuff.

I am going to get some cinder blocks and some 4ton jack stands so I can lift the entire car up off the ground safetly so I can easily work and shoot some video and pictures as I work these things out.

Tomorrow I am going to scrub down the engine to remove as much of the grease as I can get too. not only does it not look nice but I am tired of getting it all over me every time I touch something in there :-) got some break cleaner some Gunk Kleaner and a few scrub brushes and am just going to goto town on it. I want to be able to lay my hand on any part in there and not have it be black when I pull it back :-)

I do not plan on doing any maintenance however until I have 100% of the parts on hand and am pretty clear on how I am going to do these things.

Seems like the one fuel filter should be pretty easy to find the pictures show it to be partially transparent and pretty large. what about the other filter is it in the same line ? (I have not even looked yet but figure to be well armed when I goto work on it)

I also got some shims today and jammed one between the compressor brackets. WOW what a difference much much smoother and quieter sounding now. Just got to find a source for them Compressor bushings.

Once I begin to put all this online I will probably have it all up at www.nerys.com/vehicles/300D but there is nothing there at the moment.

Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/

Hmm if this oil filter is so complicated how can I be sure the shop I went to did it properly or even used the proper parts ?

for $18 I never do my own oil change why bother :-) the parts and oil alone would cost me almost that much.

but if I need to be concerned with them screwing this up maybe I should do it myself. Can I modify it to use more modern normal components or do these complex components serve a special function (I am not sure if they are complex because of design/need or simply age ie thats how they were then etc..)

Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/

Do it yourself, unless you pay a whole lot more than $18 the place will surely screw it up, they don't know any more about it than you did.

You have a paper air filter, they changed in 1973 or so except for the diesels, 1975 for the diesel. You will have to get the part for the filter to manifold from Mercedes. Won't be cheap, but it will be available, I think.

Black, sticky oil is pretty much the way things are with diesels, and they all leak somewhere.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Hmm I have a 75 300D and a 76 300D will the 75 have an oil bath filter and the 76 a normal filter ?

Is the oil bath superior enough to be worth swapping over? I can not imagine it being very hard but if there is nothing to gain why bother. I thought they looked the same under the hood. I will have to check again. I also thought oil bath filters had to be kept horizontal (the canister is at a 45' angle roughly) which lends credence to it being a normal air filter.

For now I will just patch the cracked opening and monday will see how much the dealer wants for the hose.

Also the K&N filter is only $20 more than the regular is it worth it ? I do not mind spending it if its worth it.

Thanks!
Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/

All 300D W115s have a paper filter. You do not want to switch back, too much trouble. A 76 may be a W115 or a W123 chassis.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Are the mercedes oil bath filters a real pain? (I have one in my VW Thing and never had any issues working on it or maintaining it then again its a much smaller engine with lots of room to work in :-)

How do I determine which chassis I have. I am guessing the 115 since it looks identical to the 75 I have then again I never got under the car and closely inspected the chassis for comparison purposes :-)

Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/

Yes and no. The 4-cylinder diesels had them in both the W115 and W123 chassis up until 1977 I believe. My 1976 240D has one. A previous owner replaced it with a cheap oiled foam one that was starting to come apart, and I converted it back to stock. The part that I didn't have (the long plastic air duct) was really expensive as I couldn't find it anywhere except Mercedes at the time I needed it. The oil bath filter element, as you probably know, doesn't need to be replaced unless damaged, but it to clean it well takes work (my friend did it with an industrial solvent tank - over & over). It looked brand new when finished, just filled oil up to the line and mounted it. It fits tightly in a 220D or 240D W115 chassis, so I don't think you can fit it in the 300D W115 (yes this is what you have). I think the 300GD G-wagen had an oil bath, but there's more room under the hood. Just change the paper filter & keep it stock; I don't think the K&N would have any advantage other than its "hot rod" looks.

I found proper replacement fuses at the local Schuck's auto supply, but I don't know what the fuses in those other two canisters are for either. I'd love to know.

You may find you need a new primer pump on the injection pump...the old ones seem to be notorious for leaking. The new style is better and only about $18 I think, well worth changing if you have any problems or leaks with the old one. I don't think the 300D injection pump ever required motor oil like the old 4-cylinder diesels did, but if it has a red cap on it that says "OEL" that's where you would put it in (if so, there's also a drain plug toward the bottom of the pump).

**************.com has some decent DIY repair manuals for MB diesels and some W115 specific manuals, but the best I think is the genuine Mercedes CD Service/Repair manual. I look forward to your photo documentation of the maintenance...there's not enough good info on the pre-W123 models so that should be nice.

__________________
1976 240D "Katja"

wow that oil bath filter must be huge :-) if I remove my air filter I have enough space on the passenger side to install something like 3 or 4 car batteries :-) its really open and roomy. I better make sure I am looking at the right parts. (I am used to vans which have ZERO extra space so this is roomy to me :-)

behind passenger headlight there is a large canister (I assumed that the air filter was inside this canister) is that correct ? (goto http://www.nerys.com/300d/stuff and click on the air filter hose image.) it does not show the canister but it does show the hose going to it. maybe I am looking at the wrong component :-) would not surprise me even a bit :-)

I will take some better broader images tomorrow and I am also going to pull that canister out of there and get a better look at it and see whats inside :-)

Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/

dimentions:
A:152.0 mm
B:88.0 mm
C:88.0 mm
H:221.5 mm.... Whoa!
No,it`s not oil bath..Mann C 15 120;MB 617 094 00 04 ; Knecht/Mahle LX 246; HENGST FILTER E220L;PUROLATOR A27631
Install also a transparent in-line fuel filter to easily observe for air bubbles...yes,do every oil filter change yourself ...
once again-this is useful:
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb1.asp?TP=1&F=115114&VIN=
Good luck!