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  #1  
Old 03-13-2007, 04:07 PM
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Tranny Flare Question 1983 300D

Car is an 83 300D w/205K miles.
After not running all winter, a $75.00 AutoZone 49DL battery was all it took to bring my car back to life like it was running yesterday. And like yesterday, the tranny stilll flares between 2 and 3 and 3 and 4.
Is there a concise thread/document that will systematically walk me through step-by-step, fix as I go along instructions as to how to eliminate this issue. It flares worse under light throttle, not much as all with the pedal mashed to the floor. From previously read threads, it seems there's a billion different things to check. I just need a flowchart type procedure to follow and I'm sure I can fix this.
Any help, guidance or pointers are highly appreciated.

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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
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  #2  
Old 03-13-2007, 04:21 PM
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There is no concise thread that I know of. I am going to write one eventually.

Search for my name and a thread called 'Its critical...' started by Samuel Ross. Theres a lot of info on this in there.

If its a vac issue, you are getting too much vacuum to your transmission. You need to reduce this. Best way I know of would be to adjust your vacuum modulator T IN 1 turn (this is covered in that thread). The modulator is under the car connected to the tranny. Mine is green, I think yours should be too. You can also adjust your VCV, but I dont know which is the preffered starting point. Brian Carlton gave me all of my help.

good luck, you will solve the issue with the resources here.

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #3  
Old 03-13-2007, 05:41 PM
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I'll help you right on this thread, Rich.

You'll need a Mityvac to perform some tests. It might be possible to stop the flare with some simple vacuum adjustments.

Before doing any of that, what do you currently have with regard to EGR and the 3/2 switches on top of the valve cover? We should probably get rid of those first to get a proper, and known, starting point.

Best not to raise the modulator pressure just yet, if a vacuum adjustment can do the trick.
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Old 03-13-2007, 05:50 PM
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From that post ( It's CRITICAL... how you set your transmission's vacuum system on your diesel MBZ... ) :

Quote:
Originally Posted by Post
This external system must pass onto the modulator a variable vacuum that decreases from ~15 inches of vacuum down to or near “zero” as you drive and put the petal-to-the-metal! Yes, the main reason I am brow-beating you with this is that I want to REALLY emphasize that you MUST get this part right before you start adjusting the modulator…
In other words, don't just dive right in at the modulator. That will be the last thing to adjust. But you do need a MityVac to get that far.

I'm wondering if the PO didn't soften the shifts (increase the vacuum to the modulator, or adjust the modulator itself) in order to compensate for the usual harsh 1-2 shift. The problem with doing that is that ALL of the shifts soften. Getting the shifting soft enough to smooth out the 1-2 makes the 2-3 and 3-4 slippy.

From what I understand there is a band (B1 band?) that can be replaced with an updated version to soften the 1-2 shift. Anyone with more info on that?
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Last edited by 1983/300CD; 03-13-2007 at 05:58 PM.
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  #5  
Old 03-13-2007, 06:51 PM
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i adjusted the bowden cable, my alda, and took my egr off, and i no longer have a flare, the thing that made the biggest improvement was the adjustment of the bowden cable, i highly recomend tinkering with it!
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  #6  
Old 03-14-2007, 07:06 AM
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I don't think PO fiddled with anything. It used to shift pretty much OK. I do have a MityVac, first tool Ibought after buying the car. I am guessing the car still has the EGR and the 3/2 thing on top of the valve cover. I know where the bowden cable is, but don't know how to adjust or play with it. I'm ready to start fixing this thing. It's going to be my summer car until I can get the 300TDT I'm looking at. That car will benefit from what I learn on this one.
Thanks All.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
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  #7  
Old 03-14-2007, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmmagow View Post
I don't think PO fiddled with anything. It used to shift pretty much OK. I do have a MityVac, first tool Ibought after buying the car. I am guessing the car still has the EGR and the 3/2 thing on top of the valve cover. I know where the bowden cable is, but don't know how to adjust or play with it. I'm ready to start fixing this thing. It's going to be my summer car until I can get the 300TDT I'm looking at. That car will benefit from what I learn on this one.
Thanks All.
First, I assume that you can safely remove all the EGR related equipment and have no issues with any state inspections.

You'll see three lines going into the black box.

1) One line goes to the temperature switch in the thermostat housing. Just pull off this line and toss it.

2) One line is the supply vacuum and it goes over to a T that is near the injection pump. Remove this line and toss it. Now, you've got a T with an open port. Remove the T and toss it. Take the two lines that were originally in the T and connect them together with a short piece of hose.

3) One line is the vent line. Same deal. Pull it and toss it. Remove the T that is near the injection pump and toss it. Take the two lines that were originally in the T and connect them together with a short piece of hose.


This completely eliminates the EGR and the 3/2 valves from the system.

After you get this done, we'll setup and check the modulator vaccum with the Mityvac.
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  #8  
Old 03-14-2007, 10:51 AM
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I agree disconnect the vacuum to the EGR and 3/2 valve and see how the transmission shifts. I had a similiar symptom and removing vacuum to the EGR was the fix. Also improved fuel economy (from 24 to 26 mpg) and overall engine performance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
First, I assume that you can safely remove all the EGR related equipment and have no issues with any state inspections.

You'll see three lines going into the black box.

1) One line goes to the temperature switch in the thermostat housing. Just pull off this line and toss it.

2) One line is the supply vacuum and it goes over to a T that is near the injection pump. Remove this line and toss it. Now, you've got a T with an open port. Remove the T and toss it. Take the two lines that were originally in the T and connect them together with a short piece of hose.

3) One line is the vent line. Same deal. Pull it and toss it. Remove the T that is near the injection pump and toss it. Take the two lines that were originally in the T and connect them together with a short piece of hose.


This completely eliminates the EGR and the 3/2 valves from the system.

After you get this done, we'll setup and check the modulator vaccum with the Mityvac.


Last edited by johntksr; 03-14-2007 at 01:14 PM.
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