Done since last post:

- installed new diff mount (needed to be changed)
- installed new subframe mounts (also needed to be done)
- installed 14.5 mm spring pads (had 19mm in before)
- installed Bilstein Comforts in rear (old shocks were wrong)
- had an alignment done (today)

Well, the car drives great, but, the rear wheels still have positive camber.

When measuring with a level, there is about a 3/8" gap if I place the level against the top sidewall (measuring gap at lower sidewall). It is visible by eye as well. Its better than it was before, but still there. Both wheels are identical.

I am going to go back tomorrow and ask the mechanic who did the alignment - I asked them to do a 4 wheel alignment, so I'm wondering if they considered it 'in spec'. Ill find out more tomorrow. I think the spec is 0 camber..

My latest thoughts:
1.) Is this a big deal now? Will it hurt my rear tires or be a handling hazard?
2.) Do I need to wait for stuff to settle in at all?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

thanks again,
dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

The addition of new subframe mounts, diff mount, and rear shocks all cause the back end to lift somewhat. So, the reduction from 19mm to 14 mm on the pads was largely offsetting.

I don't believe the sedan ever had the 19 mm pads installed for any reason from the factory. Either it was the 14mm or the 9.5mm depending on the spring.

So, clearly, you should have the 9.5mm pads to reduce the camber to proper spec (maximum of zero).

Thanks Brian. Looks like I get to hone my spring pad removal technique once again At least it gets easier the shorter the pads get.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Dropped in the 9.5mm pads. Still have some positive camber. Its late and I didn't measure to get exact data, but Id estimate about 1 degree positive on both wheels (measured after taking a drive).

So I have new shocks, spring pads, diff mount, subframe mounts (all needed to be done).

Should I just give it some time to settle out? Will there be appreciable settling of the components over a thousand miles?

thanks,
dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Did they give you a printout of the alignment specs at the shop?
You might want to rent a camber gauge, using the sidewall of the tire is less accurate than using the wheel itself.

__________________
1984 300TD

yes, imho.

tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

yes - the rear was 1.47 degrees positive when I had the 14.5mm pads in there.

I can see by eye that its still positive - could I rent a gauge at AZ?


tom w - a thousand miles it is. next step would probably be new springs, so i dont want to rush into that.

on the bright side i can can really rip apart the suspension in a hurry now.

dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

The rear suspension settled out over time, as tom suggested.

No more positive camber in the rear...20k miles later.

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car