Its actually modeled and rendered in 3ds Max and V-Ray. I could have made it a little more in depth detail wise, but it think this serves the purpose well enough. I should do more of these...

I disagree.
If you go to the trouble of replacing the front crankshaft/harmonic balancer seal, the seal ring/spacer ring should be replaced.
The part is currently ten dollars.
The seal ring/spacer ring should slip off the crank shaft, however I have encountered some that had to be split/destroyed to get them off.
If the sealing surface is less than perfect = you will be forced to go back in to do the job again = double the cost/time loss...

Spacer Ring OM615, OM616, OM617
6150310051 Harmonic/crank spacer ring/seal ring

Seal - front crank OM617
MB# 001 997 22 47

Cylindrical pin - harmonic balancer (two required, can not be re-used)
000007008244 Dowel for harmonic balancer, Large Engine Application List

Screw - pulley to harmonic balancer (six required on OM617 engines, can not be re-used)
OM617.952 + 616.912 as of engine# 027799 Harmonic pulley cap screws (six per engine)[/QUOTE]

OM615 and OM616
Seal - front crank
Screw - pulley to harmonic balancer
Call with your year, make, model and VIN# for correct part.

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
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Also, there is no assurance that the new seal is going to ride in the exact same location as the old one. And even if it does, it is possible that reversing the spacer won't adequately "relocate" the wear area. There is way to much work and risk in the job to leave an old $10 part behind and chance having to do it all over again in short order. .

OK- I need to replace the seal due to oil leak, and went thru' the DIY.
My question is: can this be done by itself or, does anything else need to come off first? How do you take off the seal and ring? Just pull it off (pliers or anything special)? Things to watch out for?
Sorry for the simple questions; but haven't done this before, and don't want to mess up.
Thanks-

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1982 300D Turbo 3.0L 275K- sold
1992 300D Turbo 2.5L 300K
1997 Miata 115K
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 120K

What, exactly, do you mean when you say that you "went thru' the DIY?"

I just read it- no physical work done yet

__________________
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1982 300D Turbo 3.0L 275K- sold
1992 300D Turbo 2.5L 300K
1997 Miata 115K
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 120K

The seal ring is directly behind the harmonic balancer.
Most of the time it comes out with your fingers.

Main seal front/rear and harmonic balancer + Pulley
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/266668-main-seal-front-rear-harmonic-balancer-pulley.html#post2352212

Hi, does anyone knows if a 87 MB 300D Turbo with a 603 960 engine needs those talked parts like seal race(spacer), harmonic ballancer dowel pins,cap screws, when front crankshaft seal replaced?
Thanks

Rendering? I don't see nothing.

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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Would this be the same procedure for a '91 300D?

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1995 E420 152k
1991 300D 2.5 348116 daily driver
1992 300E 2.6 196k-work in progress(head gasket)
2002 BMW 745Li 93k

Sorry to bring this back to life. But I'm not sure how you guys get the sealig ring out. I know there is a special tool but can it be done with a 3 claw poller or two flat heads and some bad words?

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84 300sd 2.47 dif 360k
26 mpg needs lots of love
given to me in pitty

89 civic hatchback auto 140k
33mpgs soon to be low to mid 40's
been in the family since mile 1

85 300d with unknown knock. driven over 30k with knock and still going. sold for $800

I assume you are talking about the metal spacer / sealing ring that goes between the seal and the cog on the end of the crank. Correct me if I'm wrong!



I think it comes down to luck.

Some people have reported that they could pick it out with flat blade screw drivers

Some people have said they needed the special tool (I think this is essentially a collet type affair)

In my case I gave up removing it. When I removed the crank for other reasons I decided to tackle the bugger. In the end I had to drill a hole in the spacer ring so that I could wedge in a cold chisel and then hammer the little twat off of there => it was stuck - really stuck - no effing way some fancy special tool was going to remove that one!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I am doing my main seal right now...
I was able to get the steel spacer ring off with a thin piece of spring steel...think feeler gauge.
Once it got started... I was able to get a few screwdrivers behind it and wiggle it out.


Questions about the 6 SHCS...
Why do these need to be replaced?
They seem pretty stout ...
I understand they deform when installed ... But all screws do ... That's how they stay in place!

Can I just install again and use some blue thread lock... And not crank super hard on them!?

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'81 300SD ---> '46 IHC Metro (some day)

Many people have problems with these screws because they catch a lot of crud - corrode and get damaged during removal. If yours are in good condition then some thread lock and the correct torque should be enough to keep you going.

However as this is a common failure point - and when it goes it causes lots of damage - replacement is considered to be prudent.

The choice (as with all advice on this forum) is yours.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Front crank seal saga on 1984 300D.

Thanks for this wiki. I had seen it but forgot when doing my oil pump tensioner, which became cam chain rail swap & timing project. I didn't anticipate problems since I previously changed the front crank seal on a used engine (1982?) before installing it in my 1985 300D. On that one, I "just did it" without much thought and must have gotten lucky (no leaks in 3 yrs). I did tip that engine over on the stand in trying to loosen the crank bolt (scare, no damage).

After seal installation and rotating the engine (cam timing), I noticed the seal sitting crooked. I pulled off the damper to check and found the seal lip was torn and the spring popped off (photo). Apparently, the lip got pinched between the seal ring and damper hub. I probably assumed the lip runs on the damper's hub so didn't check that it was over the seal ring. The main lip runs on the seal ring and the outer dust-lip appears to run on the damper or in the gap between the two. Perhaps on the prior engine, I had pushed the inner lip up around the seal ring. Things are more obvious on an engine stand.

I'll contribute 2 thoughts.

1. Instead of making the plastic lip expander here (good idea, comes on newer engine rear seals), one can use the seal ring as an expander. If you can pull it forward (mine was easy by hand), work the lip over it (rolling motion, blunt screw-driver helps), then slide the seal ring in as you tap the seal in. If you can remove the seal ring completely (I had to slightly file the edges of the crank key slots), you might push in the ring after the seal is installed, which would expand the lip. A new ring is $10, but I flipped mine over (polished new surface of gunk) since it had a slight groove where the seal ran. If you remove the oil pump (possible w/ upper oil pan on, I did), you have better access to the seal ring, or there is a special bolt puller tool (expensive).

2. I wondered what stops oil from leaking between seal ring and crank. It appears nothing. From there, it could either pass thru the dust-lip on the damper or thru the metal-metal gaps at the shaft and washers. No concerns on a new engine, since it should have negative crankcase pressure (from PCV), but as they wear and get blow-by, the crankcase gets pressurized, so all possible leak paths become reality. I coated the ID of the seal ring w/ gasket sealant to block that inner path (resists oil and stays pliant). It may not be sufficient, but shouldn't hurt.

I had other issues w/ the round keys that lock the damper to the crank, but I'll put in a separate post. I have read where others had problems, and even caused permanent damage to the crankshaft.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
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