|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Experiences with aftermarket door seals?
I need new door seals for my front doors at least. I know for windshield seals OEM is the only way to go. Anyone care to comment on am door seals, or should I cough up the $ and go OEM here too?
thanks, dd
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I would go OEM. I replaced the door seals on the rear of my car left side was aftermarket right was oem. The left seal is junk.
I replaced the rear window seal with aftermarket and it was easy I had no problems. When you go to order seals click on Order Parts and email Roy (whunter). Wealth of knowledge there. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Sorry to hijack,
But, OMEGAMAN-- how do you replace the rear window seal? Where did you learn how to do that? Thanks! |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I replaced front and rear windshield seals and all the door seals with OEM and they were not much more that after market ones.
Hint; replace the 4 tubes that go from your door frame to the doors. The carry the vacuum tubes and the electrics to the door. They tend to leak and will fill your floor boards with water. They aren't really cheap but constant water in your foot wells can be a bit costly after a while. Hint; Check out the door window slides. They tend to come apart and bind up the window. MB slides are really not cheap and I think after market ones will be just as good. Hint; When you replace the windshield seals ask around at window shops to see in they actually know how install theses windows. Get them to tell you how they do it. Most will BS you just to get the business but in reality haven't got a clue. It is a tricky process, takes 2 men, and you can crack a window before you know it. If your window has an aluminum frame around it the frame MUST go on the window BEFORE the window goes in the car. Then you wrap a rope around the lip of the seal that goes inside the car, set the window in place, push it in as best you can, make sure the inside lip is inside the frame, and then pull the rope out. Sounds a bit tricky and it is. I have been involved with 3 replacements but only helped the window guy. I didn't try it myself. If you are going to replace the windshield seals think about installing a new headliner if you need one. On my 115 the windshields must come out before you can get in the headliner. Hint; Ask your MB parts man if you can buy parts at a dealer's discount. Call yourself XYZ Restorers and see what he can do for you. I did this and saved a bundle. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
kip,
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
dd
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
window seal
I used the rope method to replace the rear window seal.
Put the seal on the glass put 1/8 inch diameter rope in seal where the steel lip of the car body will wind up place the window and seal in the opening and pull the rope out from top to bottom. I dont know if this makes much sence. I wish I had taken pictures. Once you have done one it's easy. Always learn on rear or side glass because its really hard to break. It's really easy to crack a windshield so it's best to have some experience when you tackle that job. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I will buy ONLY OE seals from the MB dealer. Avoid the aftermarket Meyle brand seals.
Personally, I avoid ALL Meyle parts. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
I have never seen an aftermarket seal that was any good. OE seals are the only way to go in my book.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
DieselDan,
It only cost me about $50 per window. The first one on my 107 I had done in Corpus Christi. The second and third were done on my 115 here at the house 30 miles from CC. I think he charged me $40 travel time and $50 for each window. I wish that I had thought about replacing the head liner before he did the windows, but it just didn't occur to me. I got the 40% discount from the dealer parts man. Even if you can get parts a bit cheaper on line the advantage of the dealer is that, one, you don't pay freight, although you do pay tax, and two, if the parts are wrong they will take them back with no problem. Plus while you are at the dealer you can get good advice from the mechanics. My mechanic friend there let me copy the electrical diagram for my 115 from the mercedes shop manual. It has been a very big help. I need to get the vacuum diagram. The head mechanic at the CC MB dealer has his own shop. He charges half the hourly rate of the dealer. I am never in a big hurry so when I need a job done that I either don't have the time to do or is a bit more than I am interested in, like front suspension bushings, I let him have it. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I initially replaced my driver's door seal with an aftermarket seal and the door would not close properly. There was a hard rubber bumper within the seal itself for some reason. The seal I bought for the passenger side was the same so it wasn't just an issue with that particular seal. I bought two new seals from MB. They didn't have that bumper and they allowed the door(s) to shut properly.
__________________
=-=-=-=-= 1987 300TD 231,000 #22, afterglow, plastic fan, euro lights, alternator upgrade, cluster housing update |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Well Im defintely convinced...Ill call the MB deal er today.
Quote:
dd
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|