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  #31  
Old 03-21-2007, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Tymbrymi View Post
I think there was some stupid high amount of shipping charges. For some reason I want to say $800 round trip. I would love to be wrong. kta-cummins right?
Yep, I think it was KTA. I don't recall S&H b eing that outrageous, but I wouldn't be surprised at $100-$150 each way, especially for 3-day air shipment. That sucker is heavy and you'll want ~$2k insurance in case they drop-kick it.



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  #32  
Old 03-21-2007, 08:05 PM
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No wouldn't it really suck if you got it back state side and something was wrong so you had to ship it back.

What are your currant 0-60 times? After 20 years a lot of these cars are not running factory numbers anymore, first get their, then modify.
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  #33  
Old 03-22-2007, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
What are your current 0-60 times? After 20 years a lot of these cars are not running factory numbers anymore, first get there, then modify.
Amen, brother!!

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  #34  
Old 03-22-2007, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Yep, I think it was KTA. I don't recall S&H b eing that outrageous, but I wouldn't be surprised at $100-$150 each way, especially for 3-day air shipment. That sucker is heavy and you'll want ~$2k insurance in case they drop-kick it.

That sounds about right. I regularly get shipments out of Holland in the 400-500lb. range that average about $900 door to door including insurance, customs and phytosanitary certificates.
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Last edited by SwampYankee; 03-22-2007 at 01:46 PM.
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  #35  
Old 03-22-2007, 04:04 PM
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Location: north eastern massachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samson's 3DB View Post
Do You have $12 Juggernaut? Do me a flavor get one of these: (feel unhappy for ya if somethin in that engine melts)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/High-Quality-Manual-Boost-Controller-Ecliplse-Talon-NR_W0QQitemZ190094021632QQcategoryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The wastegate is adjustable But It takes to much time and effort so just get some rubber hoses from a hardware store and pop that $12 boost controler
on and get it to the right setting you stated that you had a boost gauge and a pyrometer right? Just do it

Where did you get that pyrometer i need one? Thery're expensive so does any one know where i can get a descent one for a good price

PS boost controler works I have one myself its just a ball bearing with a spring. I think thats how all manual boost controlers work The Expensive one just look nicer

427L88 "JOY MAI HINGH"
ive actually been looking on ebay for a boost controler, but the cheapest i could find was something likr $85. i was proably looking in the wrong section. anyways, about the pyro.. i ordered it from summit.com. its the ultra-lite pyro kit. it cost about $135, and the most difficult part of the install was pulling the intake off so i could get access to the exhaust manifold.
i would really like to get one of those electronic power meters for engine horsepower, torque, 0-60, g forces, etc.. but im hesitant to throw $100 at a thing that allegedly does all that by sticking to your windshield...
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  #36  
Old 03-22-2007, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by juggernaut View Post
i would really like to get one of those electronic power meters for engine horsepower, torque, 0-60, g forces, etc.. but im hesitant to throw $100 at a thing that allegedly does all that by sticking to your windshield...
That's the only way you can get a good reading other than going to the dragstrip or putting your car on a dyno. Give it a good weight rating, and you will get good results everytime. Nothing magic about it, just an accelerometer and a crystal oscillator that calculates derivatives to give you speed and time to distance. With a weight you can get a good estimate of power to the ground. I've used one for years.
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  #37  
Old 03-23-2007, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Old300D View Post
That's the only way you can get a good reading other than going to the dragstrip or putting your car on a dyno. Give it a good weight rating, and you will get good results everytime. Nothing magic about it, just an accelerometer and a crystal oscillator that calculates derivatives to give you speed and time to distance. With a weight you can get a good estimate of power to the ground. I've used one for years.
Some are better than others, and the newer ones are pretty decent. I have the RaceTech AP-22 but I don't know where to buy it, since cb-racing.com apparently dropped it. (?) Avoid the old, original G-Tech Pro unit... too limited and too open to erroneous results if the in-car setup was less than perfect. I'd look for an AP-22 if you can find one... it's VERY configurable. And once dialed in, the data reported was within 1% accuracy at the dragstrip, compared to the official timing lights. Hard to beat that for a dash-top box!

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  #38  
Old 03-23-2007, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Some are better than others, and the newer ones are pretty decent. I have the RaceTech AP-22 but I don't know where to buy it, since cb-racing.com apparently dropped it. (?) Avoid the old, original G-Tech Pro unit... too limited and too open to erroneous results if the in-car setup was less than perfect. I'd look for an AP-22 if you can find one... it's VERY configurable. And once dialed in, the data reported was within 1% accuracy at the dragstrip, compared to the official timing lights. Hard to beat that for a dash-top box!

That's the one I have. At the time the G-tech was still seriously inadequate, and there was no G-tech Pro.
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  #39  
Old 03-25-2007, 07:31 AM
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Exclamation In addition.....if you are gonna spend all that cash....

Folks, this gentleman understands the intricate relationships within the IP !!!

If you intend to spend a small fortune in having your IP modified, you should also consider the other relationships within the engine....more fuel will need more air.....not just a simple increase in boost pressure.....valve overlap would be one area to look into.....of course it would involve a different cam grind (profile)......and an increase in valve size would also be helpful.....then there is the inter-cooler project as others have mentioned....don't forget that more air in, and more fuel burned, will require an improvement in your exhaust area....I will not bother to mention all of the other components that will need to be at minimum "factory spec" (in good mechanical condition).....so, be careful......and have some extra cash available for unforeseen problems.......

SB


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair View Post
When looking to extract extra power from a Diesel engine, a few things must be remembered or it will all end in tears....

IF you really ARE developing 25 PSI boost which I seriously Doubt, For god's sake, have pity on it before you destroy or seriously damage either the Turbo OR the engine. At the moment, its a 'Runaway' waiting to happen when the turbo self destructs....

Reduce the boost-pressure to an Absolute-Max of 15 PSI untill you do further work.

Starting with a Good Turbo engine (regardless of make) its possible to gain good improvements just by getting all the settings to Correct, factory spec, and ensuring that the engine is in a good state of health.-There is No use or benefit of 'just upping the turbo-pressure' on an engine with say, Mis-set fuel-timing, or a stretched timing-chain or bad compression.....

Things that especially effect the power, would be Injection Timing, Valve-Clearances, good clean air-filter etc...Just the essensial 'service-work' before you even Think of 'Modding/Adjusting'--Doing this work is pretty cheap and should be done anyway and can in some cases drastically improve the drivability/livelyness of your car.

Moving on, assuming that your engine is in good to great health to start with, the boost-pressure can be raised, BUT as others have said, little benefit will be had if the fuelling adjustments Inside the injection pump are not altered. These are difficult to carry out with the pump on an engine, and should be carried out on a proper pump Test-Bench by someone who really knows what they are doing....

If you raise the Turbo boost-pressure More than around 15 PSI, then its really mandatory to fit an Intercooler, to reduce the thermal-loadings on the engine. It also improves the power capabilities as well, as the cooler the intake-charge, the more dense, therefore contains More Oxygen...

More Oxygen, Plus More Fuel, equals More Power--Within Limits....!

(Case in point,-That hideous BMW I own, has an Intercooled 2.5 Turbo-diesel. The Non Intercooled version of the same car develops 125 BHP. The Intercooled engine can run a slightly higher boost pressure safely and develops 147 BHP in standard form....)

Much more than the above considering the Mercedes OM617 engine and its Bosch PES 5M pump and you are looking at extensive IP work, increasing the size of the elements (The Elements are the pumping-plungers and barrels that actually supply the fuel....)--from 5.5mm to 6 or even 7mm sizes. These elements would have to be 'specials' as the way the 'Scroll' is cut in them also affects the timing at different loads and speeds in conjunction with the pump drive gear mounted 'Timing-Device'....The Governor and other parts in the IP would need alteration and appropriate settings to run these new elements correctly. Looking at Lots of dosh for this sort of work, and Huge amounts of power to be gained--How fat is your wallet!!....

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