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#31
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Let's Wire Up the Block Heater! It is a thread that shows the location and how to wire in the heater cord. I also added a link to the heater cord. Your car came from the factory with the block heater installed. The plug has a threaded cap on it that has kept the pins nice and clean for the last 20 years. Too bad it is not near an electrical outlet! -Jim
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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior. Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles. I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership. |
#32
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I had the same problem
BohdiBenz,
I had the same problem (along with a hunting idle) and was able to get it started by removing the fuel cap. After I got it to running, it really struggled to stay "alive". When I opened the fuel cap there was a strong "whoosh". I believe it was due to a clogged/inop tank pressure relief valve. Now, it runs as long as I have the fuel cap off. Do that and see if it helps...along with the other suggestions from the others. Clint
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81 300D N/A 130K miles (Nelly) 87 300D Turbo 80K miles (The Scalded Dog...because it runs like a scalded dog) 95 e320 Wagon 104K 2003 Sprinter 47K miles. 1999 Tandem Bicycle One beautiful low miles wife (who likes diesels) (that's my wife holding the sign) My son and I fixing Nelly's odometer |
#33
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#34
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After you get the battery charged, try checking for +12v at the plugs again. I'm still suspecting the 80A strip fuse. Try removing it... it often comes out in two pieces. If you have at least 3 good glow plugs that are heating, it should at least try to fire, if you let it glow 30-60 seconds. Also crank it with your foot on the floor.
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#35
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Hey did you get your car started? Has anyone heard from Him?
Cardude |
#36
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Much thanks for all the help, guys. I'll give another update when I find out exactly what the situation was. I'm curious to know if ALL plugs were bad ... I think they really had to be, because it was SO stubborn.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#37
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Hey Bodhi,
Have you tried it with 2 cycles just out of curiousity. I don't know the firing order off hand but if 1 and 3 come after or before one another that could amplify the problem of having only two plugs out of comission. If it was running fine before they crapped out then you are probably in good shape. As for the cranking time, Angel has got it right. It may seem like an eternity but give it a good crank for 5-10 seconds, 15-20 being the max. After doing a crank like that (or two is okay) then let the starter rest so as not to put it at risk for a burn out. Sit there and fiddle with something else for a minute for good measure. (Not to insult but when you "key over" the glow plugs two times to really get things hot, naturally wait until the light goes out on both times- then hit the starter-that may be completely obvious though.) IMHO- MB diesel starters are pretty beefy. They can handle that crank time. -Pat |
#38
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This advice is incorrect and unnecessary. The idiot light has no connection as to the length of time that the glow plugs are powered. The relay will typically allow for about 35 seconds. It makes an audible and quite loud click when it disengages. The best procedure is to glow it one time for the full 35 seconds. The second the relay drops out, turn the key to start. Glowing for another 35 seconds is unnecessary. |
#39
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Perhaps I am mistaken Brian,
but on my SD the glow plug relay light isn't just an idiot light, it also stays lit for a varying amount of time in regards to how cold it is. When it is 30 degrees out it will stay lit for longer than 60. I believe that it measures in some round about way the resistance and keeps the light lit for shorter/longer depending. I didn't mean wait for another 35 seconds after the first go around. Sorry if I was unclear No big deal- its back and running
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Dieter- '84 300SD.Rusty,mismatched colors. All heart. 350k. Fine Mercedes Engineering Fritz - 1981 240D 4 Spd -'90 Isuzu Trooper.5spd. 2.6L4cyl. Aerodynamics of a brick and gorgeous. |
#40
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__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#41
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I don't believe the light is on for 60 seconds on your SD. This would make no sense whatsoever because the relay drops out at approx. 35 seconds. |
#42
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Thanks for the reply, look forward to hearing your findings from your indie.
Cardude |
#43
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Thanks Guys,
I definitely learned something on that one.
__________________
Dieter- '84 300SD.Rusty,mismatched colors. All heart. 350k. Fine Mercedes Engineering Fritz - 1981 240D 4 Spd -'90 Isuzu Trooper.5spd. 2.6L4cyl. Aerodynamics of a brick and gorgeous. |
#44
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Did he replace all the glow plugs after all?
Cardude |
#45
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Note that for models with factory afterglow (all from 1990-up) the timeout is 60 seconds. The 1995-up models have up to 180 seconds of afterglow. This wouldn't apply to the OM617 or the OM603.960/961 engines in stock form. Here's the FSM section on the afterglow function, complete with neat graphs of the time/temp relationships, etc and all the factory data: http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/602_603/15-0705.pdf (~400kb PDF file) |
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