Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions, as to how to go about removing the front brake line on an '85 300D? Do you need to hold the nut on the "hard" line? I've done a search and the only method I've tried is the tapping line wrench with the palm of my hand. I saw where someone had used a "mini-torch", but I'm not so sure of that method. I've soaked it with PB Blaster. Thanks in advance.

Anyone? Ok, I guess I'll try the heat route......

buy a Vise Grips LW4 locking wrench. (Search the archives, I've mentioned this tool before). Use it to hold the hard fitting fast while you turn the fitting on the brake hose to loosen the connection. Again, do not try to turn the fitting on the hard line while the connection is tight.

USE HEAT!!!

and a vice grips 4LW (not LW4, no such product )


Good luck
~Nate

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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

I just used two wrenches. Wasn't tight enough on mine to warrant heat.

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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi

So you did find the wrench, Nate? I think I bought one from Farm & Fleet. Pardon my excessive raves, but it is the best brake line tool I've ever used --and I twisted my first bolt head off in 1966.

BTW, I don't know if it bears mentioning, but on my W123, that hard line takes an 11mm wrench. I sometimes wonder if people don't bugger the fittings up because they're trying to work with a 12. I know my Craftsman combo flare wrench set didn't come with an 11 mm. All the more reason to get the adjustable 4LW (I stand corrected).

Yes the fitting on the hard line needs to be supported by the propper type wrench. Unsupported you risk twisting the hard line.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Try a #11 brake flare wrench for the hard brake line. The #11 metric flare wrench is available at most auto stores for about $11.00. Best investment you cam make and will not screw up your hard lines.
Ron

you DO NOT want to heat the hardline up.


It's a spiral rolled tube, and heating it makes it weaker

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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)

How long should you heat it? I understand not to heat the hard line. I think I'm just going to get an 11mm line wrench.
Once I get new brake lines attached, should I bleed the rear wheels or just the front?

ALWAYS bleed ALL brakes until you get CLEAR fluid with no bubbles.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Why would you need to bleed the rear if only the front was opened?

Good habits die hard. It gives you a chance to closely inspect your brakes and hoses. If nothing else its keeps your brake fluid nice and clean. Especially if its the first time you've done it on a particular car. IMO there is one thing and one thing only that a car has to do. Stop. For me that means good wide tires and undeniable stopping power.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

...working brakes good. water=rust=stuck caliper=no stop, or burned up rotor/wheel bearings.
flush out the brake fluid whenever you open the lines up on any caliper, and at least every 2 years.
great stopping power is nice. no stopping power is REALLY BAD!
John

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

The goal is to add some heat to the fitting to break the bonds in the threads and the flared face. Not all that much heat is necessary. A temperature of 175-200°F. would be adequate.

Such a temperature will not weaken the tube. Additionally, if the torch is held properly, the hard line will remain somewhat cooler than the temperature of the outside of the nut, which is in the direct path of the flame.