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  #16  
Old 03-27-2007, 07:31 AM
LarryBible
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Sure about that?
I can't speak for psfred, but I'm sure about it. In extreme camber cases, tire wear issues can be the result, but usually because of the effect that the incorrect camber has on the toe setting.

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  #17  
Old 03-27-2007, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psfred View Post
Inside tire wear is excessiv toe-in on the front wheels.
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Originally Posted by LarryBible View Post
I can't speak for psfred, but I'm sure about it.
Wouldn't excessive toe-in cause tire wear on the outside edge?
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  #18  
Old 03-28-2007, 08:05 AM
LarryBible
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Yes you are correct, Good catch. Toe in wears outside, toe out wears inside. The point is that the TOE can be effected by camber, but it is the TOE being set incorrectly that will be responsible for the vast majority of such tire wear.
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  #19  
Old 03-29-2007, 12:00 AM
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Camber was good.

Caster was good

Left toe was .02, right toe was .08, spec is .13 to .29.

My idler arm was "just slightly" loose they said. So I'll get the kit and put that in there some weekend morning.
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  #20  
Old 03-29-2007, 06:53 AM
LarryBible
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Forget the left toe, right toe bit. The toe should be set to zero as measured between front and rear of the front wheels. I don't know where the .13/.29 business came from. If you set your toe to .29 either in or out, your front tires will be ready for the scrap heap in 10,000 miles.
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  #21  
Old 03-29-2007, 01:24 PM
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From experience, cupping is normally caused by worn shock absorbers. They have probably been bad for some time as cupping does not happen overnight.

The wear may be caused by the bad shocks, too, but sounds like an alignment is inorder .

However, I probably would not get an alignment until I replace the shocks - if they are bad. A good alignment mechanic will tell you which parts of your suspension is bad and will not align your car until those are fixed .

When checking for bad shocks, I push down hard on the fender area above each tire and watch the car bounce back. If it bounce up and down, I have found the shocks to be bad. If it comes back up slowly and not bounce up and down, I have found the shocks are good.
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Last edited by tobybul; 03-29-2007 at 01:30 PM.
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  #22  
Old 03-29-2007, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LarryBible View Post
Forget the left toe, right toe bit. The toe should be set to zero as measured between front and rear of the front wheels. I don't know where the .13/.29 business came from. If you set your toe to .29 either in or out, your front tires will be ready for the scrap heap in 10,000 miles.
I'm just reading from the printout. Every vehicle I've ever done looks similar to me.
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  #23  
Old 03-29-2007, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tobybul View Post

When checking for bad shocks, I push down hard on the fender area above each tire and watch the car bounce back. If it bounce up and down, I have found the shocks to be bad. If it comes back up slowly and not bounce up and down, I have found the shocks are good.
The bounce test does not seem applicable to these cars. My old shock had spewed all it's oil, yet the car still passed the bounce test.

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