Just noticed a big leak in my rear, inner CV boot. My cracked boots were a job I've been putting off so I suppose I can't really complain but today I finally pulled everything apart and I fear the leak may have been led to some axle wear ;(.

I've got the wheel, brake caliper and rotor off, so nothing would interfere with the axle turning, but unfortunately when I spin the hub, I hear a small click in the inner cv joint. I'm assuming, the inner joint is dry as a fart since i haven't yet taken the busted boot etc off so I thought it might simply be dirty in the joint. The clicking isn't loud (it happens every rotation, but seems not to be at the same time each turn) and there isn't any noticable play in the shaft. Anyone know what the odds would be that I need new a refurb half axle? Would the clicking for sure be wear? Would a cleaning, lube and new boot cure it? Any help would be gobbled up!
Many thanks!

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'81 300D,'83 300CD-T, '82 300TD

We've got heads on sticks, you've got vantriloquists.

Hmmm....another thing to worry about... the fluid coming out of the cv boot is quite thin. Could this be oil from the differential coming out? From what I understood, the cv should only have grease that may be "flung out" once the boot is gone ... if it's dripping does that mean a bad inner diff seal? I've got to wait until morning to get a 14mm hex bit and crack the diff. Arrrghhh, poor rear!

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'81 300D,'83 300CD-T, '82 300TD

We've got heads on sticks, you've got vantriloquists.

Sounds like the half shaft is kaput!
the half shaft fluid is thinner than the diff lube, not real thin but it puddles pretty nicely. Besides there is no path for diff lub out thru the half shafts
Diff lube typically stinks like rotten eggs due to additives (sulfur?)
remember to crack the fill plug first!

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

The factory CV joint lubricant is actually rather thin, I believe, not like the aftermarket stuff sold in the auto parts places. I would think a leak of diff fluid through the diff side cover seal would be less likely than the boot failure/CV leak that you have discovered. If you have caught it quickly, you may be able to get away with just replacing the lubricant and the boot. The 'clicking' should stop once new lubricant is in place. How long it will last is another question.

Others may disagree and advise immediate replacement of the entire half-shaft with a new or rebuilt unit. I personally did the latter, replacing both half-shafts with rebuilt ones from CVJ Axles in Denver. It depends on your personal situation; I felt that, for a little over $300, it wasn't worth the risk to re-use a questionable component. Remember that your time is the same whether you put in a good axle or a bad one, and it will probably take more time to replace the boot and the lubricant than to replace the axles.

You need to open up the diff anyway to R&R the axle(s). Just remember to remove the fill plug first to be sure that you CAN get it out. Very embarrassing to drain the diff fluid and then discover that you can't get the fill plug out!

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Repeat after me:

123 and 126 axle boots DO NOT contain grease, they DO NOT contain grease, they DO NOT contain grease.

(we're clear about this, right? no grease, not even a little)



CVJ two thumbs up

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

Thanks guys.
I'm goin' for a used parts hunt tomorrow to see if there is a local deal. Oh how I hope there's something around town. I'm running on zero spare time this week and a lame car is a tough one to dance around!

I've been reading up and it appears that simply replacing the boot is a bugger. On benzworld someone refered to having to uncrimp the axle "can" in order to replace the boot. It looks to me that a stretcher is the ticket, and it might go right over the beefy end. Uncrimping it doesn't seem logical but diymbrepair mentions it .... dieselgiant doesn't?? Anyone get a cv boot kit, stretch it and slap it on their axle?

Also would a 126 axle do the trick?....I seem to remeber a local mechanic mentioning he had one and thought it would fit my car but it might be thicker.

From what I mentioned about the slight click each time around, what would you guys think might I feel while the car is driving?

Hope to learn more ....and roger on the "no grease in the rear"! haha
many many thanxs thus far fellas.
HIMMM

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'81 300D,'83 300CD-T, '82 300TD

We've got heads on sticks, you've got vantriloquists.

If you have a click in one of the joints, that axle is probably toast or close to being gone.

These early 80's cars are now approaching 25 years old and the rubber on the boots are very aged and need to be replaced. If you let the boot get too worn, and it leaks, you risk ruining the joint very very quickly from a lack of lubricant. If they aren't leaking yet and the mileage is relatively low, they might be a candidate for rebooting. The question is whether you can find a service or mechanic to reboot them properly AND refill with the proper lubricant. OR you can buy a set from CVJ.

I don't particularly care for this repair in my garage. Its physical and dirty. It'd be a whole lot easier with a lift. Thats why I would do both axles at one time and I wouldn't take a chance with cheap rebuilts from Autozone etc.

This is not one of those items that is easy to fix 2 hours from home.

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

I drove my car 4000 miles thumping every time i corned left before replacing both axles from cvj Two weeks later we went to replace Dad's and girl at desk said they were out I was very disappointed purchased some other kind and could see the quality difference as we put them in
In thje meantime i had emailed CVJ on my dilemma and my disappointment at them being out of stock 10 days later the PRESIDENT of the company called me himself to apologize for no axles poor information from the phone lines and late response to email AS a result of my problem the phone line ordering has been retrained if out of stock to go to a supervisor to find how soon they can build one for you
This dedication is raely seen anymore CVJ has my vote every time

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commercial fisherman diesel in my blood in my boats trucks and Dear old Dad has had me drivin them since i got my first license in 1968
1986 300 SDL 427654
1999 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 225423
1986 300 SDL 287000 Dad's
1987 190 Turbo 158000 Mom's (my inheritance)

Hey Howimade :. Dont know if you would be interested but I have a pair of half axles that came from an 82d that were redone locally by an indy shop. The history is: A self proclaimed "expert on MB" told me all the models axles were the same. So I took the axles from the parts car(they were probably fine anyway)and had them rebooted to put on my 300SD to avoid downtime. You can imagine my reaction when I tried to mount them on the SD. They have never been installed and I would be willing to give you a deal at about a hundred each(a fraction of what I paid to have them redone.Any interest Post here.Willie (Poor Soul)

Not to belabour the correct term for the lubricant in CV joints....but Mercedes (thru their OE Febi/Bilstein) refers to it as "ringgelenkfett". Loosely translated as a ringed flexible hinge (or joint) grease. Fett is a German root for grease. Here's a picture of some schmierfett for CV joints.

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The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

I got one at schucks $73 lifetime guarantee. we will see how long it lasts?Mine was making a thumping niose worse when i turned a corner. A good tip I learned on here, for removing the filler is to put the allen in so the long end is sticking out to the side and using a floor jack to jack up on the wrench worked slick its hard to get leverage under there, just make sure the wrench is in the cap good.

All I can tell you is that when my original boots split, it slung out black butter all over the place.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather