You can imagine the hits when searching "oil" and "AC"......
I need a quick refresher on adding the oil to the system. BTW, I believe it is 8oz's, is it not? This is for the 240D. Going back with R-12.
I remember from doing the wagon that pouring oil into the compressor was a disaster, as the oil poured out of it as you try to install manifold lines. Seems like I disconnected the fitting over the top of the engine and poured it in that way, which went down to the low side of the compressor. Right?
I also remember pouring quite a bit into the rec/dryer. System is all flushed. Every single piece was flushed, every o-ring will be fresh and Nylog'd. Autozone was nice enough to let me borrow a brand new, never been opened vac pump for the process.
Any reminders on the oiling process, and any "hey idiot, don't forget about....." would certainly be appreciated.

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

When I did the 300D, the oil went into the condensor, the receiver/dryer and into the evaporator (via the narrow line from the R/D).

I wanted to avoid presenting liquid oil at the compressor inlet. It's worked well for 9 months.

170ml (a little less than 6oz) Castrol 500vis Mineral oil is what I used. I would think the 240D would be similar.

__________________
Bob
'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic

R-4 compressor? My original R-4 had a decal on it which specified 6 oz of oil.

I'm guessing a straight shot of oil into the exp. valve will not cause a problem???
It is an R-4 compressor, btw. Hope it's good......
And, why no oil at the compressor inlet. I thought that is the point of trying to pour some in there to start.

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

You run the risk of breaking the reed valves by trying to compress liquid oil.
I wanted to avoid sending a big slug of liquid into the inlet.

The compressor comes filled with oil. You lose a lot when bolting on the manifold,
but some remains. The oil acutally distributes itself fairly quickly when refrigerant is
introduced. Turning the compressor by hand a few times is a good idea before
spinning it with the engine.

__________________
Bob
'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic

So, pouring oil into the line to the evap, which first goes through the exp. valve is OK?

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

yes. all i have to say about this is i would rather have too much oil in the system than too little. so i would rather add oil to the compressor beforehand in the low side line. its all going to go into the compressor one way or another mercedes designed the systems so that the compressor is the lowest part of the system. so oil will pool there. if you put the oil in the evap it will pass through the expansion valve or the txb. it will take some time and might make pressures climb to dangerous levels on the high side.

now lets talk about oil.

Mineral oil is the go to oil for r-12 right? no. mineral oil is the last resort oil if your putting it in there because you want to keep factory or its what you thought was best. mineral oil is hydrophilic meaning it has an affinity to water.

now in 1990 i believe the usa banned r12 and forced car manufactures to use another freon. and create or use another oil those oils were pag and poe (ester). now both of these are acidic and are the only oils to be used with 134a. they also have a problem with contamination any remnant oil left in the system be i old pag oil or mineral oil this will cause coagulation of the new pag or ester oil.

now there are my favorite classes the "other formulas" my father is an ac technician and has been one for about 15 years he went to college for 4 years and got his degree in refrigeration. so now he has a couple go to stores that sell freon whole sale. its kinda like costco only for ac supplies. well they had a new refrigerant and a new oil out well i decided to try them both out and i will tell you what they were.

the refrigerant was R420A i will like you the site read up on it ive been using it for about a year now in california 100 degree heat. all ive gota say is good about it it has the same pressures as r-12 and its compatible with everything and anything that r-12 is compatible with. http://www.rmsgas.com/choicer420achillerconversion.htm

second the oil they showed me was called Allcia benzyne by chemical name i cant get the spelling right. it lubricates very well and is synthetic meaning it has no affinity to water. not only that but it also has a uv dye. its the best stuff ive ever used.

well there it is. ive never seen r420a in any store other than a ac suplies retailer. or on the internet. same for the oil.

Gary

That's a cool degree to have.

lol

Mineral oil is hydrophobic. POE will work with R12, but mineral oil IS the way to go with R12. It's the best lubricant.

POE is 10X more hygroscopic than mineral oil and PAG is ~1000X more hygroscopic.

__________________
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

Well, I went ahead and used 7+ ounces of synthetic oil. I used a syringe to squirt some in line from rec/dryer towards exp. valve {1.5 oz}, I put about 2.5 to 3oz or so in suction side at schrader valve area, and put the rest in the rec/dryer. Pulled a vac for about 20 minutes, and it has been sitting about 1 1/2 hours steady at 30 units of vac. No suction leak apparently. Hope it works the same with pressure.
Will add info to my 1980 240D thread, but wanted to thank yall for the info. This is how I did the wagon last year, so I sent back with about the same thing.

**edit**
I only pulled a 20 minute vac to test for leaks, as I forgot to get new Schrader valves, and have to open it up again anyway......

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John