Is anything dragging like a caliper or the parking break? These cars are sensitive to that.

When I got my TD it wouldn't go over 50. It had been sitting for two years. After about a week of "Italian Tuneups" it started getting better. I think the turbo was not spooling up after sitting for so long. Large amounts of smoke on acceleration. Sprayed WD40 on every bolt and in every nook and cranney by the turbo expecting to have to take it off. But it just kept getting better.

However, in the last 20,000 miles (8months) is has run great. I have not used diesel purge yet but will shortly. I still get a few erratic shifts from time to time but I think ehere are a few vacuum leaks, like in the pods under the air cleaner.

Hope you find your problem. These cars are great when the run correctly!

Joe

No. The vac modulator only affects shift firmness. Shift points are controlled internally and with the Bowden cable. A fluid & fitler change wouldn't hurt if it hasn't been done in a while. Here is the PDF file with the factory procedure for adjusting the Bowden cable:

http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/602_603/30-3402.pdf

It's pretty useless, basically make sure that with the cable fully pulled out, it matches the WOT setting on the accelerator. Make sure you are adjusting the Bowden cable (which goes to the tranny), and not the cable from the accelerator pedal. They are right next to each other and can be mixed up.

:kid:

I'll do the fluid/filter tomorrow. I'm sure I was adjusting the bowden cable. Should there be any slack in it when at idle? Adjusting it seemed to make no difference. I'll try again tonite and report back. Simple question: what trans fluid should I use? Dexron, II,III?

GSXR- you have a PM

Tranny takes Dexron III. Be careful not to overfill! If you drain the converter and change the filter, I believe it takes 7 quarts total... add 4, run car at idle, then add 2 more, check level, add half-pint at a time until it's between the lines. Remember that when cold it will be 10mm below "MIN". The marks are for checking when hot (15+ minutes at freeway speeds).

The vac control valve on the side of the IP is for the vac signal to the modulator on the tranny. This affects the shift firmness, not shift points. If it's banging shifts, or flaring, etc you start by adjusting this per the FSM procedure.

For the Bowden cable, set it to match whatever your other car is set to - that one is working properly, so use it as a guide. Also make sure the throttle linkage is moving as far on the problem car as it does on the good car. It's handy to have two, eh?

The 190D Turbo still has the pressure-operated wastegate, along with overboost protection. Again, I think he's already verified that the switchover valve is ok, by bypassing it for test purposes (connecting ALDA straight to intake manifold). Right?

:wacko:

This afternoon I adjusted the bowden all the way (with the nut toward the tranny) I assume this tightens the cable. It has made no difference in shifting. Didn't take the slack out of the cable either. When I shift manually the shifts are firm yet smooth, no bang no flare. Shifted manually it is taking 16 sec. to get to 60mph. Do I have boost or not? Tried to get a pressure gauge today on ebay and failed. I'll have one soon. Would additional boost have any effect on shifting?


Thanks for the help.

GSXR- I'll send that to you tonite.

Have you checked to see if the bowden cable is connected to the transmission?

Everything sounds like a too-slack bowden cable, or one that is not connected at the tranny, or one that is binding.

Be sure that the bowden cable is free to move in/out, then start out by adjusting so that the bowden cable is at full extension with the throttle floored. This should give you the proper shiftpoints or at least close, tweak it from there.

I'll do that tomorrow while the tranny is draining. I wondered if something else could be wrong with the bowden also.

It's a simple cable in housing, should be easy to troubleshoot.

Where does the bowden connect to the tranny? Does it attach internally or to an arm on the outside.

The cable connects on the right side, in the middle. See photos below. It's the black cable, it has a white/yellow section near the tranny end:

http://www.w124performance.com/image...ff/tranny1.jpg

http://www.w124performance.com/image...ff/tranny2.jpg

Thanks for the pics GSXR that defines it perfectly. How does it disconnect? Unscrew, pull out, locking screw?

Have done the fluid/filter change. Shifts are smoother and quieter, but still much too early. Was not able to drain TC, couldn't find the drain plug anyway, not enough time. Will put it back on the ramps tomorrow and have a look see. I'll report back with my findings.

Thanks for all the help. :)

PS: Loni's odometer quit today, so now I really don't know how many miles are on her.

Here's the factory procedure to adjust the bowden cable (first section, OM603.96) :
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/trans_Bowden_adjustment.pdf

And here's the procedure to replace the cable - you have to drop the tranny pan to do that:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/trans_Bowden_replacement.pdf


To locate the converter drain, you need to slooooowly turn the crank by the front 27mm bolt. After you find it, use a white/yellow paint marker to mark the balancer so you can easily turn to it in the future. ;) There's another 3 quarts or so in the converter.


Here's the adjustment procedure for the vac control valve, on the side of the IP. Note that it's a right/wrong setting, not a variable adjustment. (Trust me on this. BT, DT.)
http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/602_603/07.1-1826.pdf

:scholar:

Today I tried a test. I disconnected the bowden alltogether. Just popped the linkage off the end under the hood. It made no difference in how it shifted. I took the free end of the cable and pulled on it to see if there was any resistance and it feels like it makes something move on the other end as there was resistance and it always returned to the same position. What does the bowden move inside the tranny? Could the problem be there? Does it control a valve that may be stuck or something?

It's sounding like the transmission has a problem internally. I'm not sure how to troubleshoot further. How's the enginer power problem going?

:(

I guess I can try some Trans X, maybe it will loosen a sticky valve or something. What do I have to lose?