Just difficulty closing the door
won't full latch

IT does look like it was moved.

I don't know history of the car as far accidents
but it was owned by a Dr since least 87.

My white spray grease was lithium
so I thought it couldn't hurt

sprayed hinges on door

what about the lock/ latch mech
not sure what that needs so left it alone

the spray grease is lighter
but maybe it got insid hinge

Still having trouble shutting driver door

I hoticed a bolt loose on top
its the unpainted one on toip

Not sure why but it could be why its not closing well

Also both doors have numbers that look like vins
but they are not my vin which is 126

Doors start with 123



Checked the 1237200037 number & its not a vin
not enough numbers
its a hiinge part number
So while it isn't proof they are original it also isn't proof they are not.

Receiver plate plastic bit broken on door catch mechanism will prevent it from closing properly. 4 x 5mm allen bolts to replace the receiver plate. Front and rear are interchangable but not from left to right. Plastic bits aint replacable by themselves. And i would not grease the door checks, leave em dry instead. You want them stiff with resistance, not sliding easily.

How dDO you get them off. I haven't even looked, but need to fix or replace the regulators in my back windows and would like to put Dynamat inside the doors, too.

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

You don't say if the moisture shields are any good or not but generally they are torn the first time someone goes into the door for repairs. I make them out of heavy gauge sheet plastic and stick them onto the door with Gasketsynch.

__________________
My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.

No, I haven't looked in the doors yet. I'll know more then.

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Basically you unscrew the fiddly bits, pop the top sill first and then door panel buttons using dull knife or screwdriver sacrificed with edges filed down. Naturally you feel around to gently pry the collar of each button clip and NOT shatter 20yr old brittle plastic buttons. Trickiest part on 123 is gently workin out the plastic cover in door release handle from front to back without either busting the plastic at its weakest point or scratching it up. Pulling door panels is piece of cake.

Yer window regulator on the other hand will leave you sittin with pile of parts in the driveway. Probly you'll need to pull another door panel to see how regulator and window tracks oughta be reassembled.

Good news is manual crank mechanism bolts straight across. It's popular upgrade that arguably increases resale value if ye ever sell the car. Many agree electric windows on classic MB diesels are useless as tits on a hog.