fuel tank filter removal 82' 300 turbo diesel
 

I noticed a power shortage a couple of days ago when driving around. Decided to do a fuel filter change and see whats up. On the way to the shop car died a couple of times-then a couple more on the way home but made it. Changed the filters and still no luck. Now it wont start. Went to the back and checked the tank filter, pulled the fuel line off and no fuel came out!! I can see the filter in there and nothing is coming out. Im guessing its all clogged up with algee or whatever. Question - What kind of sauket do I need to get that frikin' thing off? I bought a 1'' 13/16ths but it doesnt fit well. And when I get it out how would one go about cleaning the filter, then do I need a washer or something when I put it back so it does not leak?
Sorry - so many questions.
I love these cars enough to smell like diesel for a couple of days after I'm done a fixin'.

Al

46mm is the size socket you need.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123FuelTank

I need to do this eventually too. Is the 46mm available for rental from anyone?

Thanks yall,

A 46mm will do but, these things are quite expencive. I got one for 30 bucks but the its too thick. Dang.

"stuck at home"

:P northern [china] tool and equip 11.95 on the shelf 9.99 at check out
I only speak up when it goes the other way :wacko:
for the 46mm 12 point china made socket AND IT FITS THE TANK DRAIN
on my 83 300 sd

or harbor [china] freight set of 3/4 drive with about a dozzen sockets inc 46mm
ratchet and breaker bar too 39.95

yes I know they are junk tools but how many times do you need a 46 mm :scholar:

BTW I just took off the small nut and hose and went looking for the 46mm
about two hours later the drips are still comming
I syfond drained the tank and got no flow out the hose or after the nut came off just drips
how long will it drip?
does the no flow but steady long drip mean the filter screen is blocked up?
or will more fuel come out when the big nut is droped out no matter how long it drips?

There is an o-ring on the strainer.
http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1YC1BU6YY21U11U8NA&year=1982&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=E&part=Fuel+Screen+O-Ring

Before you worry about finding a socket, try loosening the hose fitting (threaded into the strainer.) Sometimes the strainer will loosen instead of the hose fitting, in which case you won't need a socket.

A flea market 1 13/16" ought to do ya. I paid big dough for the proper tool but in hindsight think I should have gotten a cheap one. If the socket's too deep some people cut it down, although it seemed to me that there was enough room under my car for a deeper socket to clear the axle. It's not as tight as I thought. Clean the screen with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. Reinstall with a new o-ring and fitted fuel line.

18 hours later and the fuel is still driping out :wacko:

stoped driping
 

but of coures still got more fuel on pulling the strainer out
just not on me ;)

what a offall mess

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...d/000_0331.jpg

under that goo is a newish tank screen filter
it cleaned up nice
but now how to clean the rest of the tank?
as there has to be more in there!!! :(

trying a heavy dose of star tron plus a quart of iso alcohol and some fuel injector cleaner for a gas motor [that was cheap at big lots 1.10 a bottle] plus 2 gal of diesel fuel shake car to swill around the tank let sit and see in the morning how nasty it looks when drained
then put back the 12 gal drained before with star tron and the injector cleaner
and see how it runs

wish me luck

wow that's some championship slime you got there
definitely got me beat

FOR FUTURE REFERENCE
 

I used a plumbers basin wrench to remove the tank filter. A basin wrench is that funny looking adjustable wrench that opens to about 4", so after you fix your car, you can fix your kitchen sink.


Home Depot sells the wrench for less than a socket, and I believe I also used it to remove the fuel sending unit at the top of the tank. There is little or no torque to put in the strainer or the sending unit, so they are relatively easy to turn.

I picked up this on the cheap. Low profile too. 46mm Mercedes Benz 46MM Oil Filter Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U3FEXM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_iOJnghb2jieTS

35-43 Nm for the quantity indicator and filter. Surprised you were able to get a basin wrench on the filter. Also make sure the strainer has "Diesel" written on it. Think its molded into the plastic part.

[QUOTE=Almobile;1465488]Thanks yall,

A 46mm will do but, these things are quite expencive. I got one for 30 bucks but the its too thick. Dang.

"stuck at home"[/QUOTE]



You need to have a minimum of 1/2 tank of fuel. If you swap the positions of the Fuel Return Line where it goes on the Fender Well with the Fuel Inlet Hose which is also on the Fender Well you can run the Vehicle after you do some priming with the hand primer.


When you do the above you are drawing fuel from a tube that is higher then the bottom of the Fuel Tank and you would be sort of back flushing the Tank Screen because you are no returning the Fuel through the Tank Screen.
But, because you are drawing Fuel from a higher position you would run out of Fuel sooner then you expect.


If you do that and get it running normal you might go to a Boating Shop and get some Startron for Diesels and put that in the Fuel Tank after which fill your tank and drive.
The Startron has an enzyme that is suppose to eat up solid stuff (not rust) and render it so small it can pass through the Fuel Filters.


You might be able to avoid removing the Tank Screen doing that.


After the Tank has gone down you might try swapping the Fuel Hoses back to their normal positions and see if everything is normal.


The Sockets often have a tapered area inside before it gets down to the teeth of the socket. If that taper is steep enough the teeth of the Socket will be too far away from the Hex on the tank screen as the Hex is kind of thin.
The Socket I got was like $7 from a cheapie tool store but I needed to put it on a belt sander to remove that inside taper.
See post #52 and there is a pic of the Socket before it was sanded/ground down: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/85130-ultra-frustrating-4.html#post3451882