Yes, But even exposing the bearings to Kero, Gas, Parts cleaner, brake Kleen, or any other harsh chemicals is very bad for them. If a car is going to sit anywhere, for a long period of time, it's good to change the oil before even cranking it once. Over time, once oil has been used even for a few minutes, oil develops, and retains certain Acids, which corrode everything in sight. Bearings, being very delicate, are the first to suffer the effects. When a car sits a while with the used oil in the engine, change the oil FIRST to prevent this, and make sure it will be safe. If I plan to store a vehicle, I will very often change the oil both before, AND after it sits. WITHOUT A SINGLE START-UP, in between. Once you run it for even a minute, these acids develope.

Oh, Ok, Google...I don't use that very much..Time I started to use it more often..

First, I wouldn't use any quick fixes such as solvents, kerosene, etc..., as they run the risk of running on "dry" bearings. Also, I bet the piston cooling jets are marginal at best.

A friend of mine ran into this sort of thing when he pulled the drain plug on a Jeep and nothing came out! Several minutes later a stream of molasses-like oil finally started. He tried a more gradual approach and got 7 more years out of the engine.

As several have suggested, block off the lower engine and do a mechanical cleaning using only a lightweight oil, such as ATF, for a "solvent" to prevent drying of areas that need lube. Then he used a high detergent, petrol-based motor oil for several, frequent, overnight oil changes. Once things start to appear cleaner, then go to a synthetic 5W30. After a couple, or as needed, changes go to a proper temp/weight.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

This is what it should look like.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

That sludge is the most severe case of neglect that I have ever seen.

Here's a link showing what Auto-RX did to a '93 Nissan 240SX. The results were amazing especially the increase in compression for all cylinders.

http://www.auto-rx.com/rms13/

http://www.auto-rx.com/rms13/index-2.htm

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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

WOW! I am gone for the morning and BAMM!!!, tons of responses. Thanks for all the input guys. I think I am going to go with cleaning the mess by hand. I will be careful in the process. When I drained the old oil after the car sat for 2 years, no sludge came from the oil pan. The oil was very black but it drained rather nicely. I am betting it is mainly the top end that is suffering this horrible mess. What could cause this? Blow by maybe? I have never seen build up like this before.

Hatterasguy - Thanks for the 'how it should look' photo. Wanna trade!

Actually, Blow-by could cause some of it. More than likely though it was moisture in the oiling system. Eventually, the moisture, drained to the bottom of the pan, and left the oil deposits sitting on top. Since the car wasn't started, to create heat, and circulate the oil, it just hung around the top of the head, and turned to sludge as ( EXXON Valdeze) it just sorta coagulated. The shorelines of Alaska, are still suffering form it, and the beaches, have this same type sludge...So you should rename the car Valdeze, or something like that...

Thats Delvac 1. At the time of that picture that engine hadn't run in 5 months, and the oil was still sticking like it ran yesterday...

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

When I started up my 79 300CD after she sat for four and a half years. The oil pressure jumped up to 45+ and the car ran, instantly, as if it had been shut off, that afternoon. That's Rotella-T, a little anyways...Mercedes, all the way though.

I would first clean all sludge possible with a screw driver and a shop vac. Then I would run 50% kero and 50% oil till it warmed up to temp, then change oil and filter and run about 500-1000 miles and another oil /filter change.

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Closing the store
Benzbonz.biz on your smart phone or tablet.

No, No, No kero in the crank case, mixed with oil. The kero, will just break down the oil anyways. It will all be kero when your done, and your motor will be toast. Just do a cleaning, and don't let the kero near the bearings. Clean the top end w/rags, and a little kero in a spray bottle, and nothing more. Do Not spray it directly into any journals, or bearing areas. Do Not let it get near anything other than what you can see. Don't let any go down into the motor. Just use it like windex on glass...Spray, and wipe. If it gets into the crank case you're asking for trouble.

In the big parts washing machines people have, in their shops, the parts cleaning solution, is most, if not all made of kero. If Kero, is made for "Breaking down" oil, and grease...Why would you put it in your engine, and run it? It will do the same thing, to the oil in your engine, as it does to grease and oil on parts you are cleaning. You'll toast that motor.

Specifically because this is a diesel engine and uses a timing chain tensioner that is pumped up by oil I withdraw the suggestion to put kerosene in the crankcase.

I have added one quart to my 1994 Mazda Protege crankcase every other oil change for >100,000 miles. I ran it for 5 minutes and then shut it down and drained it. I did not run straight kero in the engine.

At just over 100,000 miles a valve came loose and punched out the top of one of the pistons. (The car sat in a field for 2+ years. When I went to tow it home it only took jumping it off to get it started to drive it up on the trailer. Getting it road ready was accomplished by changing the fluids. The failure was within a couple of weeks of getting it running again. I blame it sitting for two years for one of the lifters sticking and causing the valve keeper to fail.) Luckily it did not even touch the sides of the cylinder. This gave me the oppertunity to take the top & bottom end off and get a good look. Everything look good and clean. The bearing on the one piston I removed looked great. The top end was extremely clean. There was a bit of sludge in the bottom of the pan in an area that does not drain very well.

That is where I am coming from on this. Keep in mind that was a gasser, not a diesel. And that it has a fairly simple lubrication system. It does not use the engine oil for anything other than lubrication, cooling, and for operating the lifters. No oil pressure driven timing chain tensioner.

It worked for me. I am not now suggesting that you do it to a Mercedes diesel.

-Jim

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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.

I beleive most Mercedes engines gas or diesel are this way.


After having yanked a few valve covers I'm a big fan of synthetic oil. Provided it was changed, I'm not talking about neglect. But everything being equal the inside of the engine that was run off synthetic is always spotless. Dino keeps it clean, just not brand new looking clean.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

AHH Merci.., Withdrawal accepted..No problem. I'm just happy, to see another who will admit when he's wrong about something..Very humble, and cool.