Leaking Fuel P 99 TD, Help
 

I want all the combined knowledge of resident guru's here. The tricks, pitfalls, cautions and exlpecit insights. I have come to the mountain seeking the guidance. Yes, I search the forum for past referances.

MY 99 300 TD fuel pump O rings are leaking again. LAst year the dealer charged me $700 to fix this and I'm not going thru this again.
I searched the parts online and see only one O ring listed. So here are my questions.

1 What is the size and material of the O ring?? I want to get better replacements

2. How in world can I get to the lines with out removing the intake manifold?? The dealer didn't remove the manifold.

3. any potential problems or traps?

4 Should I do anything else?
5 Should I replace all of the O rings??

Thanks in advance, free beer on me!!!

While it is possible to do this project without removing the IM, it is MUCH easier to do once it is off and it only takes about 15 minutes to remove it and another 15-20 to replace it once you know how. The parts costs are trivial, the o-rings and crush washers are a total of about $10-15. It is unbelievable to me that the dealer charged $700 for this job as it is only about 2-3 hours work for an experienced tech including R&R of the intake.

If it has been less than a year since the dealer did the job GO BACK TO THEM AND GET THEM TO DO IT AGAIN FOR FREE! For what they charged you the first time they could do it over twice more and still make a profit. I'd bet if you are calm, collected and very persistent with the service manager they will re-do it gratis.

If you still insist on doing it yourself, here is a source for the o-rings in Viton which some have used with success:

http://www.fryerpower.com/store/page11.html.

And here's the link to the poster who succesfully did it without removing the IM:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/162751-99-e300td-delivery-valve-seal-replacement-without-removing-manifold.html

This thread should provide the help yee is seeking regarding the Viton o-ring size(s), etc...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/177588-om606-962-o-ring-size.html

If you don't want to remove the manifold, remove the washer bottle instead.

I would also recommend removing the IM to do the delivery valves seals and crush washers.

Special socket is required. The pdf in this thread shows the delivery valve and part number.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/173991-om60_series-ip-delivery-valve-reseal.html

Torque is 35NM, one time only.

Is necessary to be surgically clean when doing this job. Must not distrub the pressure valve carrier (7G) down inside the IP or pump can be ruined when 7 is torqued down. Diagram is misleading, 7H is the o-ring sealing the threads of 7 to the IP and 7F is generally found up inside of 7 when disassembled.

This is not difficult job but is one you want to be precise about doing. Removing the IM would make replacing the fuel line and/or shutoff valve o-rings at the same time that much easier.

I'd have the dealer fix it free under warranty. $700 is inexcusable. Parts are cheap.

If you do it yourself, get the special socket, and just order new seals from the dealer... they should be the good stuff. Torque procedure is 30Nm, release, 30Nm, release, and then 30+5 Nm final torque. Don't take my word for it though, read it in the procedure from the factory OM606 manual:

Edit: Corrected link.
http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/605_606/07.1-8627.pdf

http://www.w124performance.com/image...alve_tool1.jpg

:book:

gsxr,

The torque procedure has been revised; see the pdf dated 12/06 I linked to previously. Applicable to all 60x's series.

Dealer sells buna o-rings, not viton. nhdoc linked to viton in earlier post. My last set of DV o-rings lasted 2 1/2 years, the next set will be viton.

If you know what sizes you need I will buy and stock them. If you have new buna o-rings that you want in viton please send them to me and I will size them, buy and stock them. I can't do much with old o-rings. They tend to be in bad shape when they come out.

-Jim

I have worked on leaking IP delivery valves on my 98 E300 both with the Manifold off and then the second time with it on. I already new what was required when I did all six Delivery valves the second time without removing the manifold. You have very limited visabilty ( maybe 30degrees off horizontal)of the last two valves toward the back with the manifold on. The last one in the back you can only see from the side and you are placing the crush washer in there by "brail"... Even if you are not replacing the washers you still need to make sure the washer and spring is seated properly before screwing down the valve nipples/covers. I used a small dental mirror to look down inside the back valves when assembling everything. Pack rags all around the IP and create a cloth hammock out of an old white sheet from the IP through the area where the windshield fluid bottle was removed to catch dropped springs est. .....you do not want them dropping into the black abyss!!!

Did It save me any time? NO!.....I had the time and wanted to see if it could be done reasonably without crawling around to undo the manifold. I had a spare manifold gasket waiting in the wings just in case..... It would be easier for a first timer to do it without the manifold in the way!
Good Luck

Actually what is posted there is older information, from the 602/603 print manual. The 30, 30, 30+5 procedure used to only be in the Technical Data Manual. The link I posted above is newer, from the OM606 manual, where they add the 30/30/30+5 note. BTW - I corrected that link, ooops. Here it is again:
http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/605_606/07.1-8627.pdf




Wow. I did not know that. What is the obvious difference between buna and Viton? Are they always a certian color?

:kid:

gxsr - both materials are black, viton is more fuel resistant. Mine went about 2 months after the ULSD change over although i had also burned a fair amount of B99 too. I've been switching everything over slowly ever since.

Your pdf isnt dated BTW. M.B.Doc posted the other pdf in response to specific questions I asked him prior to doing my DV seals. HE claimed his pdf was the most current revision at that itme.

I'm not certain it makes that much difference and in fact did not follow the 35nm one time only procedure exactly when I did mine.

The PDF from MB Doc is from the WIS, and the date at the bottom isn't the date the document was originally created... it's the date MB Doc printed it out and created the PDF file. So it's hard to tell when exactly that document was authored. However, if you look closely, his printout is from the OM602/603 manual, which is older than the OM605/606 manual. The PDF that I linked to is for the 605/606. Basically they just added a couple of engine-specific notes for the 605/606, and included the 3-stage procedure which formerly was only in the TDM.

On a side note, the final spec isn't 35Nm, it's 30 Nm +5, meaning 30 min, 35 max. So something between 30-35 would be acceptable.

Either way it's not a big deal as long as there's no leaks or rough running afterwards.

:book:

Interesting....

gxsr - does your manual cover the 606.962 also or only the 606.910 & 605.xxx

They are very hard to tell apart just by looking at them. The best way is to buy from someone you trust. The next best way is to buy a $40 tool to test them. One is more springy than the other. The tester drops a weight from a set height. You watch to see how high it bounces back. The o-rings have to be 90 durometer, I think. It is kind of hokey, but it actually works.

-Jim

The W124 manual I posted a link to only covers the .91x (non-turbo) engines, although the pump mechanicals are essentially identical to the .96x (turbo) versions. Interestingly, the EPC does not show any part numbers for the delivery valves or O-rings on any OM606 engine in the 124 or 210. Hmmmm. Strange! I'll have to look at the WIS again when I get home.

I don't recall seeing any procedures in the WIS for delivery valve O-ring replacement for the 606.96x engines, and that may be on purpose... MB probably wants the whole pump repaired by a Bosch shop if there are any fuel leaks. (??) I'll double-check though.

:kid: