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#16
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#17
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Hi Sleeper,
Well I'm happy to hear (read?!) that the car passes the blown HG test. This is going to seem like a really stupid question, but was the new thermostat physically identical to the old one? I know on my 240 there is a small disc on the back (engine side, not radiator side) of the thermostat that closes off the bypass circuit as the thermostat opens. If the disc is missing (wrong thermostat) then the engine will run hot because it is recirculating coolant internally rather than pumping it through the radiator. This would explain your symptoms. Good Luck, Chris |
#18
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Thats actually a good question, but the thermostat was the right one, I was very carefull when installing it.
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#19
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Hose lining problem
The small hose from the rad to the resevoir may have a lose inner liner that is seperated from the woven section. That will act like a check valve under pressure but appear to be clear when removed. A new hose is couple of buck or so. I had this problem last year, went nuts checking things. I got this tip on the board.
__________________
1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#20
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Just a bit of info.....
If you have access to the MB Engine Service Manual.....section 20-005 has a nice diagram of the cooling system "as designed"........
AND....if you installed an OEM thermostat....it has a little arrow on it's edge....this arrow points up....... SB
__________________
Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
#21
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Quote:
That's only a theory. It should be easy to see if this is what's really happening. If it is, then one of the radiator hoses is probably collapsing until you open the rad cap. More likely to be one of the bigger ones, so should be easy to spot. Disabling the rad cap's lower gasket will allow the coolant to flow back and forth freely, but won't get rid of the air bubble. The system wouldn't have done this unless you had an air bubble in it, so maybe it didn't have one before but does now.
__________________
'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
#22
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#23
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The last two posts sound like they are right on the money, I never knew that about coolant concentrations before, and I may have done just that. I will try again to bleed the air.
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#24
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Not exactly.....
Quote:
The pressure within the cooling system is controlled by the "Pressure Cap"......and is unaffected by the coolant.......it will relieve excess pressure, only.......thus maintaining a maximum allowable pressure within the system...... SB I went back and re-read the original post.....your radiator cap is designed to allow excess pressure to vent from the cooling system, but it also should allow atmosphere back into the system as it cools......check your radiator cap!!!......sounds as if it's not allowing atmosphere back into the system, thus forming a vacuum within the system when cooled.....
__________________
Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG Last edited by Shorebilly; 04-14-2007 at 07:06 AM. Reason: additional commentary |
#25
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Jason Green 1977 240D AUTOMATIC the Beast 1974 Super Beetle Suppose you were an idiot. And suppose you were a member of Congress. But I repeat myself. - Mark Twain, a Biography |
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