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  #1  
Old 04-14-2007, 10:26 PM
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OM617 Performance Modifications

I'd like to start a discussion of the steps for performance increases on an OM617. I'm thinking there's three basic levels, stock, serious and wild.
Stock would be no parts swapping, just tuning.
Serious could include parts swapping, but still daily driver friendly and no measureable reliability/durability decrease.
Wild would be huge power increases, but where engine reliability suffers. Very few of us want to go there.

Stock: Do your maintenance, get all the adjustments back to stock, install the proper gauges(boost, pyro), and turn up the turbo to 12-13PSI.

Serious: Do the stock stuff, and then begin turning up the IP. The IP can outfuel the stock turbo, right? So you'd need a bigger turbo and/or intercooler. What's the next step or limiting factor?
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I suggest we solve high gas prices with environmentalists... unfortunately they don't burn well.
1982 300CD, 220K miles: This vacuum system will be the death of me yet! (OBK #26)
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  #2  
Old 04-14-2007, 10:28 PM
ForcedInduction
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This is all you need to know.

http://schumanautomotive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=19
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2007, 10:30 PM
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heh, you said 617 and performance in the same sentence.
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2007, 10:32 PM
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Get some settings better than stock, 26*BTDC is supposed to be better than the stock 24*BTDC for IP timing, disable the EGR. I think those should count under the "Stock" category too.

After you intercool, I think you can outboost the stock IP, so a rebuilt IP is next..


In like 10 years, I'm hoping to afford a rebuilt 617, Myna Diesel IP, rebuilt tranny, VNT turbo, intercooling setup, etc, and find a perfect condition 300SD body, and build my dream car
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1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Odo Stopped at 160K (at least 50K more) | EGR Disabled | ALDA All The Way Out | Straight pipes | FM-870 Remote Start Alarm System | B100 Biodiesel | AC Fixed x2 | Trunk crushed in | Retired to garage.

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  #5  
Old 04-14-2007, 10:34 PM
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One day mine will do 0-60 in under 11 seconds. And yes I mean MPH not KPH!!! Only 4 more long ass seconds to go.
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I suggest we solve high gas prices with environmentalists... unfortunately they don't burn well.
1982 300CD, 220K miles: This vacuum system will be the death of me yet! (OBK #26)
1977 F150 400 C6 2wd, 10.2 sec 1/8 mile with 2.75 gears.
1965 Mustang. Mostly stock... LOL!
2001 Ram 2500, cummins, 5spd, 202k miles.(girlfriends)
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  #6  
Old 04-14-2007, 11:02 PM
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Linkage. IP Timing (chain stretch). Pop tested Injectors. Waste gate (MBC is SOOOO much easier to install).


Most important of all, good tires and brakes.
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  #7  
Old 04-14-2007, 11:09 PM
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Linkage ______________ - how? My service manual is in the mail.
IP Timing (chain stretch). - How much tear down is required for this test?
Pop tested Injectors. ___ - Is that a DIY process or injector shop job?
Waste gate.___________ - Ooops, mines at 11 already!
Good tires and brakes. __ - Got 'em.
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I suggest we solve high gas prices with environmentalists... unfortunately they don't burn well.
1982 300CD, 220K miles: This vacuum system will be the death of me yet! (OBK #26)
1977 F150 400 C6 2wd, 10.2 sec 1/8 mile with 2.75 gears.
1965 Mustang. Mostly stock... LOL!
2001 Ram 2500, cummins, 5spd, 202k miles.(girlfriends)
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  #8  
Old 04-14-2007, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rg2098 View Post
heh, you said 617 and performance in the same sentence.
lest we not forget our finnish bretheren with the fire-breathing wagun?

Last edited by rudolfgreen; 04-17-2007 at 05:17 AM.
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  #9  
Old 04-15-2007, 12:04 AM
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You need nitrous for a sub 13 second 0-60?
My stock ratio is 3.07. A little lower would be nice for the highway.
A blower would certainly help the 60 foot time, but once the turbo spools up it never drops off boost on an automatic car. I'm thinking the blower is just a complication... unless you are doing autocross. Then maybe blower instead of turbo would be the way to go.
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I suggest we solve high gas prices with environmentalists... unfortunately they don't burn well.
1982 300CD, 220K miles: This vacuum system will be the death of me yet! (OBK #26)
1977 F150 400 C6 2wd, 10.2 sec 1/8 mile with 2.75 gears.
1965 Mustang. Mostly stock... LOL!
2001 Ram 2500, cummins, 5spd, 202k miles.(girlfriends)
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  #10  
Old 04-15-2007, 12:19 AM
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How much will the stock tranny handle?
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I suggest we solve high gas prices with environmentalists... unfortunately they don't burn well.
1982 300CD, 220K miles: This vacuum system will be the death of me yet! (OBK #26)
1977 F150 400 C6 2wd, 10.2 sec 1/8 mile with 2.75 gears.
1965 Mustang. Mostly stock... LOL!
2001 Ram 2500, cummins, 5spd, 202k miles.(girlfriends)
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  #11  
Old 04-15-2007, 12:35 AM
ForcedInduction
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Originally Posted by derherr65 View Post
How much will the stock tranny handle?
At least 120hp.

Brandon and KTA-Cummins put out at least 140hp.
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  #12  
Old 04-15-2007, 01:47 AM
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Yawn......
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  #13  
Old 04-15-2007, 01:52 AM
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If you want a "fast" diesel....find one made in '98 or later
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  #14  
Old 04-15-2007, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
Yawn......
Ditto! 140HP is not enough!
Quote:
Originally Posted by BioPOWER View Post
If you want a "fast" diesel....find one made in '98 or later
Nooooo!!! I avoid computers in my cars at all costs. Why buy a nice, simple, reliable, ignitionless diesel only to add back the failure prone electronics?
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I suggest we solve high gas prices with environmentalists... unfortunately they don't burn well.
1982 300CD, 220K miles: This vacuum system will be the death of me yet! (OBK #26)
1977 F150 400 C6 2wd, 10.2 sec 1/8 mile with 2.75 gears.
1965 Mustang. Mostly stock... LOL!
2001 Ram 2500, cummins, 5spd, 202k miles.(girlfriends)
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  #15  
Old 04-15-2007, 11:14 AM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derherr65 View Post
Nooooo!!! I avoid computers in my cars at all costs. Why buy a nice, simple, reliable, ignitionless diesel only to add back the failure prone electronics?
Simple rule: Never, ever buy a car new enough to have a check engine light.
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Old 04-15-2007, 11:14 AM
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