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-   -   SLS line leak fixes (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/185687-sls-line-leak-fixes.html)

cscmc1 04-17-2007 09:04 PM

SLS line leak fixes
 
Howdy folks -- I have done a little searching and will continue to do so, but if anyone's compelled to share their thoughts on SLS (hydraulic) hard line repair, I'm all ears. I just discovered a pretty fast leak in one of my lines under one of the mounting brackets. Looks like these brackets are perfect for holding moisture, so no surprise there, eh? I am guessing these lines really ought to be replaced only with equivalent metal lines. I see that the others have used a flaring tool and done their own. Any other options? Any do-able temp fixes to keep the system from running dry? This is on an '80 300D Euro SEDAN, for what it's worth. SLS appears to be working fine otherwise -- no sag.

Thanks!

Chris

phidauex 04-17-2007 09:23 PM

A new line is about the only real fix. The mounting clamps that hold it in place sometimes rub against the line and damage it. I think they originally had rubber linings, which may have fallen out with time (this happened to my transmission cooler lines). The lines hold such high pressure that most home fixes just don't hold. A shop that does hydraulic repair may be able to splice in a new hard-line piece, but it might make more sense to just replace the whole line.

-Sam

phidauex 04-17-2007 09:41 PM

Hmm, just to clarify, the leak is in one of the hard-lines under the car, correct? Not one of the rubber lines in the engine compartment?

If so, then the line is 6mm, and the flare nuts are 12mm. I'm about 80% sure on those measurements. It should be replaceable with the same size line, and a flare tool that does ISO style "bubble" flares.

-Sam

cscmc1 04-17-2007 10:40 PM

Yessir, the hard lines that are under the car. I'll investigate the local parts places for available lengths and go from there. Fresh, new line all the way back would be awfully nice. Thanks, Sam!


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