Is my oil consumption excessive - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pj67coll · #16 04-20-2007, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry123400

You live in a hot enviroment. Using straight 40 grade will reduce consumption quite a bit. .

Currently I'm using 15W40. How is straight 40 grade different? Does that mean it will not have the 15W in it's designation?

- Peter.

pj67coll · #17 04-20-2007, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the seals on the vacuum pump can fail, causing the pump to force pressureized oil into the air cleaner through the vent tube.
John

Well. My air cleaner appears to be free of oil. And I guess if my seals in the vacum pump were bad that would result in reduced breaking performance wouldn't it? Cant complain about my breaks at this point. They do seem to be working well.

- Peter.

Blevinsax · #18 04-20-2007, 02:32 PM

My 350SD leaks oil like it's going out of style, but it leaks until it gets down to the half mark, then pretty much stops. It loses that first half relatively quickly, then sits pretty steady for a long time. Is that unusual? I put a broken piece of sheetrock on the floor in the garage under the car to soak up the oil that drips over night. When it gets too soaked with oil, I trash it and put another one down.

It's currently running Rotella, but my next oil change with be Mobile 1 Diesel Truck & SUV - found it on sale at WalMart, so I bought 3 jugs.

Kuhlrover · #19 04-20-2007, 03:41 PM

Rusty,

What you describe sounds like a front or rear seal issue to me.

TimK

odie · #20 04-20-2007, 03:51 PM

1 quart per 1000 miles is the standard reference for most any engine.

Buring less is acceptable consumption.

Burning more is the decision point for an engine rebuild or replacment.

barry123400 · #21 04-20-2007, 04:29 PM

[QUOTE=pj67coll;1485743]Currently I'm using 15W40. How is straight 40 grade different? Does that mean it will not have the 15W in it's designation?
You have it right no 15 in the description. Just straight 40 weight period. The in service viscosity does stay quite a bit higher making the difference occur.
Before multi grades entered the market straight 30 weight was standard in the summer for gas cars. In your area perhaps even 40 weight.
Give it a try you should not be dissapointed. All the hype about high milage car oils I suspect are basically just normal oils with a viscosity increaser and usually a premium price.
There may be a breather pipe going from the vacuum pump to the engine. Check it to make sure it is not really oily inside. It is also a good sign that your air cleaner is not oily.
First let your oil level fall to the mid point on your dip stick and see if it wants to remain there. Some will yet any higher of an oil level will drop fairly fast to the halfway point.

mbzkid · #22 04-20-2007, 08:33 PM

How do you drive the car? At 80 MPH, a 240D is turning around 4000 RPM. Traveling at the higher end of highway speeds, I would say 1 qt per 1000 miles is totally reasonable. Even in town I wouldn't worry much. There is obviously some wear, but 1qt per 3 tanks of fuel is easy to manage. I would worry when you need to add oil at every tank of fuel.

pj67coll · #23 04-20-2007, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbzkid

How do you drive the car? At 80 MPH, a 240D is turning around 4000 RPM. Traveling at the higher end of highway speeds, I would say 1 qt per 1000 miles is totally reasonable. Even in town I wouldn't worry much. There is obviously some wear, but 1qt per 3 tanks of fuel is easy to manage. I would worry when you need to add oil at every tank of fuel.

It's about 50/50 town and freeway but I never go above 70 and recently have been trying to keep it down to 65 and below. The smoking is severe in direct proportion to how far the motion pedal is depressed. More than about one third of the way down and it smokes badly. Particularly bad just before I shift up a gear. If I'm stationary in N and rev it hard a giant cloud blows out the exhaust, and lots of smoke when I'm decellerating, say having to slow down quickly from freeway speeds such as when someone cuts me off. Yes it can happen, even in a 240D

- Peter.

Blevinsax · #24 04-20-2007, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kuhlrover

Rusty,

What you describe sounds like a front or rear seal issue to me.

TimK

From the other threads I have read, your diagnosis sounds accurate. How much of a repair is that? It is leaking at the front of the motor, not the rear - so I'd assume it would probably be the front seal - how much should I expect to pay to have it repaired? Should I just keep feeding it motor oil instead?

Cervan · #25 04-20-2007, 11:04 PM

oh man you are a lucky one! a rear main seal is a total ***** to redo but the front seal only requires the front pulley to be removed and the old seal removed new one put in then everything put back together. i would say maybie 120$ but nothing more than that.

Blevinsax · #26 04-21-2007, 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cervan

oh man you are a lucky one! a rear main seal is a total ***** to redo but the front seal only requires the front pulley to be removed and the old seal removed new one put in then everything put back together. i would say maybie 120$ but nothing more than that.

That's good to know. Now I just have to find someone here in Las Vegas who knows how to do it, will do it, and won't try to charge me 10x that just because they think they can! (I think finding someone who knows how to do it will be th emost challenging part!)

Cervan · #27 04-21-2007, 04:18 AM

i live in bakersfield california (central) if you were willing to drive here it would take about 3 hours but im a diesel mechanic for my occupation and i could do it.