Crap, broke bolt off cannister during oil change!
 

When changing the oil in my car today, I overtightened the nut on top of the cannister, and it broke the bolt off! It appears I need a new assembly, or could a new bolt be put in on the assembly? Now I know not to overtighten stuff on my car :dizzy2:.
http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?i...lfilterla9.jpg
http://imageshack.us%22%3E%3Cimg%20s...lfilterla9.jpg
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...G%5D%5B/URL%5D

You snapped off the stud.

You'll need to drill the stud and use an extractor to remove it.

The canister is tapped to receive a new stud.

Be careful with metal shavings.......the engine doesn't like them very much.

Is it broken inside the canister, or can you get a hold of the stud?

I broke one of mine a few weeks ago, but about 1/4 inch was still showing above the canister with the cover removed. I tried to grab the stud with vice-grips and was not able to remove it. Then I got lucky, I put the nut over the threads that I had messed up and the nut jammed tightly enough that I was able to back out the stud. That wasn't planned, but it worked anyway.

I ordered two new studs and nuts from the dealer, but while I was waiting I just installed the correct size bolt (from home depot), it worked fine for a couple of weeks while I was out of town.

The stud isn't broken inside of the cylinder, there is enough room to grab it with vice grips. I'll try to see if I can yank it out with vice grips. If I do, what bolt at Home Depot would fit? The dealer is closed today and I would like to have it fixed before the week. Glad it doesn't need a new cylinder... it looks like PITA to do. :o

Just take the nut and stud with you.

Ok, I got the stud out my backing it out with a nut. Now It's time for Home Depot :cool:

I think it was 10mm, but I don't remember. I just bought a bolt about the same length as the bottom portion of the stud.

Broken Bolt
 

There is a tool called a stud remover which works well, too, if there is a little to grab on to. I got mine @ Sears 35 yrs ago, so I have no idea of cost (maybe $10 then -- it's not a complicated piece), but it's a nice option to have in the box for these uh-oh times -- it's saved me significant hassle many times. It's really meant for pulling studs out of overhead cam heads so they can be machined, and it locks securely on the bolt shaft with a serrated cam, then turns as strongly as you want. You have to line up the serrations with a blank spot on the stud if you want to reuse it. Studs can also be installed with it, if the stud has a blank spot (unthreaded place).

Ed

Damn I did that too. I had the dealer fix it with a Heli-coil. It has held up for several oil changes. The used loctite red when they put it in.

Chris

http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp

I'm just posting the picture in the thread for future searches in case it disappears from the other place.

If using a bolt.....
 

If you use a bolt, be absolutely certain that it is not too long.....if so it will bottom out in the stud's threads, and most likely will strip out what threads still exist......

also, I have a little 6" Stilson (pipe) wrench for jobs like this....grips way better than a vice grip......also grabs tighter the harder you try to turn it....

SB

Note: this is one of the reasons that we are should to use Torque Wrenches....whenever possible....

What vice? Drugs, liquor, wanton women, or something else?

If you're talking about locking pliers, they're Vise-Grips. ;)

When I was 16 (36 years ago!) Dad cut my rachet handles off to about 4 1/2" because I was bustin' off so many bolts!

I still use those stubby things and keep my torque wrench in the top drawer of my tool box! Works for me.