1983 300SD Turbodiesel block heater? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

guage · #16 04-24-2007, 12:00 PM

And like the picture rkohut posted it may already
have a electrical cord, but tucked away in the engine bay, that would be sweet!

rg2098 · #17 04-24-2007, 12:04 PM

Block heaters did not generally come from the factory standard. It most cases there was a coupon that came with the car for a free dealer installed block heater with a year of delivery. ALthough some probably did come custom ordered from the factory.

fitz_07 · #18 04-24-2007, 07:28 PM

All -

Thanks for all your informative feedback!

Additionally, this '83 300SD I'm looking at has over 250,000 miles on it. Since it's in Wisconsin, the body is in fair condition (some rust, etc.), but has no defects my daughter can't tolerate. Are there any serious mechanically-related concerns I should be made aware of before plunking down cash for this MB?

The seller is "asking" $2,995 but I think he's wanting $1,200 - $1,500 more than it's actually worth. Am I close on this estimated value? Any thoughts on these topics would, again, be greatly appreciated.

iceman104 · #19 01-18-2014, 09:32 AM

can someone help me here. I have a 1985 300sd. The block heater on this car is round like a circle not like the rectangle one's I see for sale here on the internet. But it is missing the cable. I ordered a cable made for the car I have but it doesn't work for the one I have. The link shows a cable that looks like would fit the one for mine. Any suggestions? Should I take the old one out and put an original one in?

Gauage the one on my car is just like the one you have a pic of! On your post. Where can i get a cable at for it the one that gauage has a picture of on his post. the cable i ordered looks like this one in the link.
http://www.*********.com/gbproducts/WC/6182-01014914.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=*********+Google+Base&utm_term=1975-1985%2C+1987%2C+1990-1993+Mercedes+300D+Block+Heater+Cord+Phillips+Temro+W0133-1634519+75-85%2C+87%2C+90-93+Mercedes+Block+Heater+Cord+1981+1985&fp=pp&gbm=a&gclid=CMzdy6P4h7wCFdBcMgodFVsATA

please help its very cold out side and she doesn't like to start in the frigged cold.

whunter · #20 01-18-2014, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman104

can someone help me here. I have a 1985 300sd. The block heater on this car is round like a circle not like the rectangle one's I see for sale here on the internet. But it is missing the cable. I ordered a cable made for the car I have but it doesn't work for the one I have. The link shows a cable that looks like would fit the one for mine. Any suggestions? Should I take the old one out and put an original one in?

Gauage the one on my car is just like the one you have a pic of! On your post. Where can i get a cable at for it the one that gauage has a picture of on his post. the cable i ordered looks like this one in the link.

please help its very cold out side and she doesn't like to start in the frigged cold.

engine block heater

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/313575-$14-w210-diesel-block-heater-cord-solution.html

Cold weather starting links

.

iceman104 · #21 01-18-2014, 12:02 PM

Thank you thank you thank you !!!! Great post!

iceman104 · #22 01-18-2014, 12:11 PM

It looks like part number from Napa 28450 is a rectangle plug where it goes into the element. That's what I have can't seem to get it to work? I need the round one ?? Am I mistaking by some chance.

whunter · #23 01-18-2014, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman104

It looks like part number from Napa 28450 is a rectangle plug where it goes into the element. That's what I have can't seem to get it to work? I need the round one ?? Am I mistaking by some chance.

This looks suspiciously familiar.

Replacement Block Heater Cord, 251919, Fleetguard Cummins - Ryder Fleet Products

.
.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Fleetguard+Replacement+Block+Heater+Cord+251919&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US%3Cimg%20src=%22images/smilies/redface.gif%22%20border=%220%22%20alt=%22%22%20title=%22Embarrassment%22%20class=%22inlineimg%22%20/%3Efficial&client=firefox-a

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iceman104 · #24 01-18-2014, 03:02 PM

Whunter thank you for your time. but I see people on here with a rectangle plug going into a round element. I can't get that to work for me like that. I just want to make sure my element isn't bad

Graham · #25 01-18-2014, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman104

Whunter thank you for your time. but I see people on here with a rectangle plug going into a round element. I can't get that to work for me like that. I just want to make sure my element isn't bad

I think the pins are spaced same. I have a round plug on the cable, but the old style square block heater. I carved away some of the plastic on the round plug and I can insert it. It doesn't fit securely so it falls out. But it does make a connection.

If you want to find out if element is good, why not just measure resistance with a meter? I think the OE heater is 400W. My electrical knowledge is rusty, but I think that would mean resistance should be about 30 ohms.

By the way - don't put in a rad hose heater. Despite what some web sites say, that can't work. It requires the thermostat to be open and the bypass closed - This only hapens when the thermostat bulb see about 94C and that can't really happen (check coolant flow circuit). If you are stuck use a magnetic sump heater. They do work reasonably well. Block heater is best!

whunter · #26 01-19-2014, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman104

Whunter thank you for your time. but I see people on here with a rectangle plug going into a round element. I can't get that to work for me like that. I just want to make sure my element isn't bad

Please review post# 23 again.
These are round barrel end with a nut.

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vstech · #27 01-19-2014, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman104

Whunter thank you for your time. but I see people on here with a rectangle plug going into a round element. I can't get that to work for me like that. I just want to make sure my element isn't bad

if you have a square end cord, and a round end heater, and it's in the stock location, the square end cord should fit into the round hole. if you still cannot get the heater to work, your heater could be bad.
get a digital volt/ohm meter, and measure across the pins. the round end cord has a nut on it, that keeps the cord in place, and clean, but either will fit into the round hole.

iceman104 · #28 01-19-2014, 09:39 AM

Whunter and everyone who has helped thanks so much.

I went to every part store in town.
Advance auto parts, Auto Zone, Napa, also I even went to a farm store.
I finally found one at O'Reilly Auto Parts, they had a round one in stock.
It fits perfect and works.

Now I've got this rectangle one for nothing.

All that remains is for my temperature gauge to work.

Whunter could you give me a hand with this in another forum?

.

t walgamuth · #29 01-19-2014, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Action Jackson

I have an 87 300Dt (603 engine), 94k miles. I bought it 4 years ago, it is in great shape except for this prob.

Starts very quickly and easily. But runs very rough, only on a few cyls when first started up. Smokes like heck, smoke smells of unburnt fuel. When I rev up to 3000 rpm, it fires on all cycls. Better in warm, much worse in cold weather. So I simply drive it to warm up so it doesn't "wash" the engine to badly.

When hot (up to normal temp), still idles a little rough, with some diesel knocking noise, but almost no smoke at all, and the power seems pretty good. Cruises at 80 with no probs at all. Mileage roughly 25-28 mpg. But I tend to drive it, not baby it.

Three mechs told me I need a new IP. That's a lot of dough.

Here is what I have done:
-All new injectors
-Tested the glos, they are fine.
-New pre- and reg fuel filters, and reg oil changes with filter, Mob 1

-The I ran straight Lubro Moly directly into the IP, with the return back into the Lubro bottle (no diesel), THIS quieted the engine right down to a nice purr.
BUT.. then when I went back to reg diesel, the whole prob started again.
Don't have a cracked #14 cyl head.

Could this be:
??IP
??IP timing
??Cam timing
??Low cyl pressure

Thanks, any ideas would be welcome.

Jack

Classic symptoms of one or more bad glow plugs.

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