1983 300SD Turbodiesel block heater?
 

I am considering buying an '83 300SD but have heard that diesel-fueled cars have real starting problems in extremely cold temperatures. Living in Wisconsin, artic temps are the norm.

Does anyone know if there is a block heater kit (or cord) that can be installed or attached on this car's motor? Any feedback would be much appreciated.

It's a freeze plug on the passenger side of the block... above the starter, blow the manifolds. It's not the easiest spot to get to. Best to have a lift or pull the manifolds to install.

Zerostart is a good brand (what I installed in my SD) and I think it's 350-400w.

Other people like to use the one that installs into a radiator hose, but does not seem that it would install as well to me.



Of course, this is in addition to a good battery, good cables, starter working well, and properly adjusted valves.

Block heater
 

I have a block heater in my 80 240d. It works fine. But no block heater will work in any MB diesel up thru 85 unless the valves are correctly adjusted. If they are not adjusted correctly, the car will really struggle.

Yea, exactly what Hitman said.

I happen to have a picture.

Picture is worth a thousand words. :)

Question for Hitman
 

I have an 87 300Dt (603 engine), 94k miles. I bought it 4 years ago, it is in great shape except for this prob.

Starts very quickly and easily. But runs very rough, only on a few cyls when first started up. Smokes like heck, smoke smells of unburnt fuel. When I rev up to 3000 rpm, it fires on all cycls. Better in warm, much worse in cold weather. So I simply drive it to warm up so it doesn't "wash" the engine to badly.

When hot (up to normal temp), still idles a little rough, with some diesel knocking noise, but almost no smoke at all, and the power seems pretty good. Cruises at 80 with no probs at all. Mileage roughly 25-28 mpg. But I tend to drive it, not baby it.

Three mechs told me I need a new IP. That's a lot of dough.

Here is what I have done:
-All new injectors
-Tested the glos, they are fine.
-New pre- and reg fuel filters, and reg oil changes with filter, Mob 1

-The I ran straight Lubro Moly directly into the IP, with the return back into the Lubro bottle (no diesel), THIS quieted the engine right down to a nice purr.
BUT.. then when I went back to reg diesel, the whole prob started again.
Don't have a cracked #14 cyl head.

Could this be:
??IP
??IP timing
??Cam timing
??Low cyl pressure

Thanks, any ideas would be welcome.

Jack

I'd check all you mentioned... chain stretch is easy to get an idea with the valve cover off. IP timing usually doesn't get too far off (usually goes with chain stretch). At your mileage the chain is probably fine for stretch. You could always stick an A-B light on the pump to see if the timing is still okay.

A compression test would give you an idea, but I seriously doubt the motor is low on one cylinder or more. The 603 seems to be built just as robust on the bottom as the 617



Maybe you have bad motor mounts?

What's the idle RPM?

Leaky delivery valves?

Injectors pop tested and have good spray pattern?

TrapOx in place? Cat plugged?

I live in Montana, where it gets nippy too. My 300SD & TDT both have block heaters and they keep the MBs starting in even the coldest weather. BTW, I thought block heaters were stock on all imported SDs...

i know some people think I'm crazy or reckless or at least not mechanical or caring about my equipment but i believe most any old diesel in the winter isnt going to like starting I dont even use a block heater till it is below zero F That said i own 5 diesel engines and none like it below freezing if there were any bugs in NH in january they would all be dead until the engines warm up Purists on here will tell you otherwise but i think this is normal Then again properly adjusted valves good glow plugs good injectors new battery make it start better If you still have rough start after that just enjoy your ride it will be ok

For Hitmanx
The trapOx is gone. The injectors are new 3,000 miles ago. I ran LubroMoly straight into prefilter, and returned to same bottle--i.e. runned on Lubro Diesel Pyrge for 15 minutes. Idled like a purring cat. As soon as I hooked up the straight diesel fuel again.. same prob.

No leaks in or around the IP. No oil leaks on engine. No fluids leaks anywhere.

Darned if I know what the prob is. But veryone seems convinced it is the IP. I am not, esp after the Lubro Moly treatment.

Jack D

I installed a lower radiator hose heater that I got from NAPA for about $30. Works for me and was a lot easier than getting to the hole where the stock block heater would go. My stock heater was mysteriously missing, but the cord was still there, just not plugged in to anything :confused:

the 3.0L should have no problems starting at 10 degrees F. when it gets below that, i have a magnetic heater that i stick on the oil pan. good for about zero. will start at about 5 below, but hard. a block heater is a much better way to deal with cold weather starts, but the magnetic heater is quick easy and cheap. block heater will run you about $48 + shipping.

If I'm viewing that photo attachment that rkohut posted correctly, it looks like your plug just fits right into the engine block above the starter ??

I know I can buy a replacement block heater cord for about $20 if, in fact, block heaters are a standard, built-in feature on this particular MB diesel, as BioBens stated.

Thanks for all your input, guys.

It may have one installed from the factory, but not have been used so there is no electrical cord if so it will have a cap covering it like this.

You can't make it much clearer than that ... thanks a lot, guage!