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#1
04-23-2007, 08:13 PM
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Rebuilt my Vac Pump, Now.......
I got brakes that take at least 2" of pedal before they start to stop the vehicle.
The only difference between before the change (only about 1/2" before they grab and stop) and now is that pump kit. Do I need to bleed them or something? Just doesn't make sense to me..... This is on the 300SD....
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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late. 1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart  1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart 1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten) 1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles) 1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org  http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif 
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#2
04-23-2007, 08:30 PM
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I have been going round and round with some of the same issues. I did a search today and read where some other members found that the little O-rings that fit under the 3 check valves are smaller in the rebuild kit than the original ones. Their solution was to reuse the old small O-rings and their vac problems cleared up. Unfortunately I threw all of that out but I do have a metric O-ring supply so hopefully I will have some that will work better.
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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.  1983 300SD, 4 speed 1994 C280 1987 300TD wagon 1996 HD Road King Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon
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#3
04-24-2007, 10:35 AM
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I read those posts also, and I checked the different parts, they were all the same size, so I'm not sure that this qualifies for the other fix.
I'm going to try doing a brake bleed just to see if it helps. I can't believe that it will, but it's worth the try. I can't imagine the fun I'll get to explain after I do the AC Compressor, Drier and expansion valve ! ! !
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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late. 1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart 1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart 1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten) 1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles) 1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif
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#4
04-24-2007, 10:44 AM
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Hmmm.......that's strange. Do you think it is possible to have installed one of the little check valves upside down? Of course, that might give you no vacuum at all. I,m not sure what the symptoms would be if that happened. Did you put a vacuum guage on the system to see what you are pulling now?
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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#5
04-24-2007, 11:09 AM
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OK, I'll be Obvious Man. If it didn't do this before the rebuild, but does it after....... Something went awry. It never hurts to bleed the brakes, but that would really be surprising if it solved the problem.
Having said that, stranger things have happened..... On your AC stuff, it isn't as hard a you think. Although, I have heard horror stories about attacking that W126 exp. valve....  
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China"  Scar engine installed'81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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#6
04-27-2007, 01:43 PM
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Thanks everyone....since I still have brakes and it's just an adjustment on my part, I'm not going to worry about it right now....
Just suggest everyone stay behind me! 
__________________
1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late. 1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart 1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart 1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten) 1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles) 1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif
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#7
04-27-2007, 05:03 PM
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Soft pedal, poor stopping power = air in brake lines
Hard pedal, high pedal pressure reqd for stopping = low/no vacuum to brake booster or defective/leaking booster. Fuzz, I recommend that you check the big vac line that runs from the vac pump to the booster for cracks...easy to damage that unit, especially when it's OEM and 25+ years old.
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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.
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#8
04-27-2007, 05:14 PM
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It makes no sense, how would messing with his vacuum pump do anything at all to the brakes, such as getting air in the lines. The problem lies either with the vacuum pump, or the connection between it and the brake booster. I am guessing the pump. Check its vacuum pull, it should be about 28".
Remember that only the pump was worked on, the brakes were not part of the task.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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#9
04-30-2007, 09:04 PM
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Update
If you are still having problems with the vac pump take it apart and use some motor oil to slick the sides of the cylinder. Just take off the front and wipe it down. Also check the check valve on top, the one that didn't come with the kit. I did mine like that and it started working like it was suppose to.
__________________
If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why. 1983 300SD, 4 speed 1994 C280 1987 300TD wagon 1996 HD Road King Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon
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