I’ve found a couple of good candidates for purchase, an ’84 and an ’85 300SD. They are both California versions, and that has me concerned.

After searching & reading numerous threads, it seems that there are some significant differences between these two model years and the earlier versions of the 300SD. I am aware of the unique (expensive) air filter needed on the 1985, as well as an apparently unique transmission pan gasket. I am curious as to why the transmission gasket is different if the car utilizes the same basic 4 speed automatic as the earlier cars – or have there been some significant internal changes in that transmission?

The unique pollution control setup is another concern. California, surprisingly enough, does not require that diesel powered cars be periodically inspected for compliance with smog regulations. I am aware of the trap oxidizer that has been (or should be) eliminated by the dealer. Someone wrote about the boost being computer controlled on these cars instead of the simpler early setup. Unfortunately, that post was lost on the day the Server crashed. Does anyone know if these cars would respond favorably to reverting them back to the simpler boost control setup used on earlier cars? Or am I overly concerned about all of this, and they are just fine just the way they are?

It seems that there are many differing opinions about these cars. I would really love for you knowledgeable people out there to give me your feedback or experiences with these late model California 617.95X engines & transmissions.

Thanks again to everyone!

P.S. – Thanks for hanging in there with me during the last couple of weeks – I’m sorry if I’ve been a pain in the exhaust manifold

My suggestion is to make your decision based on condition. If both cars are in the same condition, go for the lower mileage one.

My $0.02,

I agree with Larry on this question. Take into consideration
the cosmetic & mechanical condition, service history,
milage, etc. and pick the best one. If all these are equal,
go for lower milage. If milage is equal, pick your favorite
color

I would toss a slight preference towards the '84 over the
'85. The '85 was a one year, California only version. Still,
99% of the parts & functions are the same as every other
SD out there, but that last 1% of parts will be more expensive
and harder to find than for other SDs. Also, it will be more
difficult to find a technician that really understands the '85 than
the '84, given that the '85 is (presumably) more
complex and the tech has likely had less experience with it.

These types of changes exist elsewhere in the MB line as well.
I drove an '84 300D for a number of years, and developed a
thorough understanding of its systems and operation. While
shopping for a wagon, I looked at an '85TD. The underhood
plumbing was completely different than my '84 - I didn't
recognize *anything*. And I'm pretty sure is wasn't a
California car either.

While I would usually agree with larry's advice, here's an example of a situation that isn't just black and white.

If you have two vehicles, and we assume that both have been maintained exactly, and all service records indicate proper service intervals, the price for each one is very close, but their mileage on the odometer is say, 30,000 or even 15,000 miles apart, would you rather:

1. Buy the lower mileage car that is approaching a major service interval that can be somewhat costly?

2. Buy the higher mileage car that has already passed that major service interval, and just had the work done?

When I bought my Aerostar, it was at 56,000 miles. Just 4,000 miles short of the factory required 60,000 mile service. If I hadn't been aware of that service being required, and hadn't negotiated for the service to be included as part of the sales agreement from the dealer, I would have had to spend an additional $700 for the 60K service about four months after the purchase...

Buy the car based upon service records, proper maintenance, condition, and what work will be required after the purchase.

Here's some could be expensive points to consider:

When was the timing chain last replaced?

When were the valves last adjusted?

What condition are the brakes and tires in?

Does the climate control system function properly?

What oil leaks are there? How are those oil cooler lines?

How are the motor mounts?

How's the transmission? When was it last serviced?

Do all of the power accessories work?

How's the paint and interior?

And finally, how does the asking price compare to what the actual NADA and Blue Book values are?

http://www.kellybluebook.com/

http://www.nada.com/

__________________

Scott Longston
Northern California Wine Country...
"Turbos whistle, grapes wine..."

Greetings,

Shopping for a car, I wouldn't neccessary look or buy the lower mileage vehicle. In either case the driver was either over protective or just didn't give a D## about their vehicle. Records are important whether they are from the last owner or from service techs that worked on it. Most private owners that can work on their cars are probably more particular about it being done right before calling it good. I would also look at overall condition as other items on this vehicle can cost you bucks if you see that it will need to be replaced in the near future. Highway miles on a consistant basis doesn't have the same affect as low miles of in town driving on an engine. I would go for the best overall inside and out condition as well as how the engine performs.


Just my $.03 worth

Charles