Axleshaft inner boot leaking oil - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dc88168 · #1 05-02-2007, 01:12 PM

Over the weekend I found the left side of my 1985 300D Turbo's axleshaft's inner boot started leaking oil.
Today I called a local independent Mercedes service shop, he quoted me the following options for repair:
(1) Replace inner boot(Left side only): $630, parts and labor.
(2) Replace with a rebuild axleshaft (Left side only): $640, parts and labor

He recommended with the re-build option.

What do you guys think?

Thank you
David
_____________________
1985 300D Turbo

vstech · #2 05-02-2007, 01:37 PM

it sounds like a scam to me... most cheap rebuild axles are junk, if he is saying the parts cost on the boot is same as axle, it's a junk axle, or he just does not want to change the boot.
if the axle was making noise, he is right, you should change the axle, but if it JUST started leaking, you may be ok with just a boot. but the shops qualified to change the boot are few and far between.
John

Matt L · #3 05-02-2007, 02:43 PM

Changing the boot requires more labor than replacing the axle shaft.

Goatspunk · #4 05-02-2007, 03:00 PM

I replaced my left rear on my 83 300D in my driveway. Cost at Kragen auto parts was $75 + $60core. This is a 1 man job, took me about 6 hours because beer was involved, and I've never done something like this before.

If you have the money, you should replace the right side as well. Reason being: You have to remove the back plate on your differential and drain all the oil to get to the inner C-Clamp that holds the axle in. I didn't have the money to do the right one, even though the boot was completely destroyed

I can give you step by step instructions if you'd like. Also, the new outer retaining screw that goes through your rotor and onto the new axle is crap. I snapped it right off and had to dremel a notch and use my impact hammer to get it out. Hold onto your old one, it works great and is a much higher quality.

Edit: Pictures here: http://cityhicks.com/merc/halfshaft/ That axle is either refered as a 'half-shaft' or 'half-axle'. Kragen and Napa called it a half-shaft, Pep-Boys and Autozone called it a half-axle.

1981_300sd · #5 05-02-2007, 04:04 PM

Great pics! Ya if you dont mind doing a step by step that would be awesome. I have a feeling I will be taking this job on soon unfortunately.

rebreath · #6 05-03-2007, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dc88168

Over the weekend I found the left side of my 1985 300D Turbo's axleshaft's inner boot started leaking oil.
Today I called a local independent Mercedes service shop, he quoted me the following options for repair:
(1) Replace inner boot(Left side only): $630, parts and labor.
(2) Replace with a rebuild axleshaft (Left side only): $640, parts and labor

He recommended with the re-build option.

What do you guys think?

Thank you
David
_____________________
1985 300D Turbo

do it yourself.....
This is a pretty straight forward unbolt-bolt job. Either side
same thing, basically you break the lug nuts free and remove the wheel's
center cap and break the 13 mm bolt in the center of the wheel carrier
free, block the wheels, put the car in Neutral, jack the car up on that
side enough to get the wheel of the ground and block the body securely
at the jack pad. I use criss-crossed blocks of 4X4 and 6X6 landscape
timber, you'll be laying under a low point of the car yanking pretty hard
on things so you propably need something more solid than a jack stand,
the wood cribbing helped build the pyramids and works great under
conditions like this! Get another jack that you can use under the
differential, hydraulic/scissors etc. Put the jack under the diff and lift it so
it touches, position the jack slightly forward so it's pad is not
contacting the rear cover. Now is the best time to get out your 14 mm Allen
wrench socket and breaker bar and make sure that you can get both the
diff oil fill and drain plugs free, you have to be certain you can do
this before you open up the diff as the old oil will come out and you'll
need to be able to put new oil in once everything is R&R and buttoned
up. Auto Zone has a three socket package with the large 1/2" drive 14 mm
Allen wrench for about $8 if you don't already have one. Remove the
four 10 mm bolts holding the diff cover mount in place, this will now
allow you to lower the entire center section. Don't bother trying to unbolt
the two large bolts that attach the mount to the diff, its much easier
with the mount completely out of the way. Now you'll need a drain pan
to catch the diff oil, remove the eight bolts holding the diff cover in
place, take the upper most 7 bolts out and then the last one holding it
in place, remove it catching the oil! If you by chance drain the oil
from the diff's drain plug there will still be more oil that will come
out when you remove the cover! There is a large C clip in a groove on the
end of the axle inside the diff. You can rotate the tire to bring it
around there is a small hole in the center of the clip you can use a bent
probe or pick to hook it, its usually to difficult to simply yank it
off, I use a large screw driver to help pry the the tip of the pick/hook
also. Then you need to unbolt and remove the wheel/tire and also
unbolt and hang the caliper out of the way. You then remove the bolt in the
wheel carrier center along with the spacer. The axle is actually free
now, jack the diff center piece up as high as it will go this expands
the distance and therefore the room to manuaver the axle out. I use a
large brass drift and a 3 lb sledge hammer to loosen and move the axle
stub backwards out of the splined bore of the wheel carrier. Once it is
free you can get back under the rear and with a large screwdriver or pry
tool you can get it's tip past the end of the axle stub between it and
the backside of the wheel carrier. Sometimes the axle joints will
telescope inwards enough and the end will come free pretty easily, if it
doesn't you can rotate the wheel carrier while prying the axle stub end
and eventually it will find enough room and that end will come free. Then
you either pull the other end from the diff or you might need to poke
inside the diff and just give the end of the shaft a little pry pressure
to break the grime seal where the axle meets the diff. Then you could
use the screwdriver in the now existing space between the axle's flange
and the diff's flange. There is a spacer on the diff end of the axle,
sometimes it comes out on the axle end sometimes it stays inside the
diff just past the seal, if it does come out on the axle just reach in
there with a clean finger and hook it out. You'll need to put that spacer
onto the replacement axle when you install it. Installation is the
exact reverse. With the rear cover off you can clean it up and the vent on
top of it. I put some Never Seize on the splined end of the axle
particularly if it was already rusted in there to begin with, you need Blue
LockTite on the four diff mount bolts and i put it on the wheel carrier
center bolt that hold the axle end. You dont need anything on the diff
cover and I haven't ever needed any sealer between the diff and its
cover, some people use a thin RTV or Hylomar or Permatex #2 Form A Gasket
Non Hardening. Re-fill with gear oil and your good to go, good luck. If
you have a 18 or 24 " breaker bar 1/2" drive that will make the diff
plugs easier, spray them good an clean with carb or brake cleaner, make
sure the Allen wrench is fully seated, use one hand on the breaker bar
handle and use the other to keep the tool square in the socket. The plug
in the diff is usually easier, the one in the aluminum cover is
sometimes a bear, but a propane torch to heat the aluminum around the plug
will be a great help if its stuck.

SAY THANKYOU TO BILLYBOB FOR THE WRITEUP.happy wrenching

JamesDean · #7 05-03-2007, 01:45 AM

hmm 600 seems high..i dno bout the w123 but my w201 (200k) needed a replacement on the passenger side half-axle..costed $330 parts+labor..

dc88168 · #8 05-03-2007, 01:44 PM

Thank you for all the replies.

To: "Goatspunk" , thanks for the photos

To: "rebreath", thank you for your detailed step by step instructions.

David
________________
1985 300D Turbo

chetwesley · #9 05-03-2007, 01:55 PM

Let me just recomend that you don't buy the cheap reman axles. I bought some from partsamerica/checker (cardones) and had to replace one within 6 months.

Other people have had good luck with CVJ. Unless you don't mind taking the time to "claim on your lifetime warranty" with the cheap ones (ie: do the whole job over in a few months for "free"), I would go with the CVJ's which aren't even that much more expensive.

maccus · #10 05-05-2007, 08:41 PM

I suspect that I have a bad CV on the right side of my 300D............what are the symptoms?............I have a vibration above 35 or so and when I put the car in neutral and push it forward by pushing on the right rear fender I can hear a cracking sound that seems to be coming from the right rear wheel area...........any thoughts?.......thanks

JamesDean · #11 05-06-2007, 12:18 AM

when the CV on my 190E went..i hear this loud ass claking of metal..sounded like someone stuck somthing in the wheel so that every time a spoke came around it would hit it..kinda like the ol playing card in the bike spokes...but probably best thing to do it take it to ur indy and have him put it up in the air and look at it..

tobybul · #12 05-06-2007, 08:01 AM

For $600+, I would buy the Flex Gun described in the DieselGiant pictorial ($249) and have at it.

smorelen · #13 05-06-2007, 04:40 PM

Here is some more information on the half-shaft topic:

W123 axle R&R job--some questions?

BR,

Steve

raslaje · #14 05-06-2007, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maccus

I suspect that I have a bad CV on the right side of my 300D............what are the symptoms?............I have a vibration above 35 or so and when I put the car in neutral and push it forward by pushing on the right rear fender I can hear a cracking sound that seems to be coming from the right rear wheel area...........any thoughts?.......thanks

My mechanic diagnosed my problem as CV joints (actually confirmed what people on this forum suggested). I uploaded an audio tape of the sound my car makes. You can play it by going to: Rear End Metallic Noise

rbardolv · #15 05-11-2007, 05:38 PM

Would it be wise for one to install new drive shaft support and bearing at the same time?

*Does the drive shaft need to be dropped in order to put the support and bearing in?